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FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement
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Model: FAV6800 Brand: Maytag Age: 5 - 10 years
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robksu  
#91 Posted : Wednesday, November 23, 2011 9:07:28 AM(UTC)
robksu

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Dick,

Thanks for the quick feedback. I am planning to do a complete outer tub rebuild but it will take me a few days to get the bearings delivered.
Clutch is on order.

A few questions:
[LIST=1]
  • You mention flipping the outer tub upside down to work on removing the upper bearing. At what point do you remove the outer tub? After you remove the spinner?
  • I've done quite a bit of DIY work but never with bearings. What do I need to be aware of regarding handling and seating of the new bearings? Are there places on the bearing itself that I can damage if I'm not careful? You mentioned using washers to protect the "races" when seating the bearings. I have a feel for what you are referring to but I want to make sure. What would a seating tool look like?[/LIST]I'll take the thing apart today and post some pictures later.

    Thanks again
    Rob
    		•
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    robksu  
    #92 Posted : Wednesday, November 23, 2011 9:27:38 AM(UTC)
    robksu

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    One other note on your "See if you can rotate the Tumblers they will move slightly." comment. The tumblers will move but there is a lot of resistance. There is also a loud noise, similar to what I would here when running the diagnostic tests. Should I hear any noise and how free should the tumblers move?

    Rob
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    dh1200s  
    #93 Posted : Wednesday, November 23, 2011 5:46:47 PM(UTC)
    dh1200s

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    Rob,

    ""You mention flipping the outer tub upside down to work on removing the upper bearing. At what point do you remove the outer tub? After you remove the spinner?""

    I left the inner tub in untill tear down and removal of six bolts holding down the clamping ring of the Spinner Support. See page 46 for the SM method of tear down also See perma link #10 as to the steps that forum member did on tear down.


    There was no direction for me I just lookerd at the SM and did what seemed to be a bit more logical for tear down. I left the inner tub in the machine which made it easier to impact out/remove the six spinner bolts for me. The Service Manual and post from me and others should get you thru this. Read thru the post I know with multiple forum members working this project did not make for an easy flow of tear down. But the SM and the comments in this post should get you thru a outer tub removal. You will need an 1/2" impact tool air or electric for this project. I sheared off a Spinner Support nut even after a soak in licquid wrench. The early post in this thread calls that out. I was the only one that had that happene. I hope your are not severely corroded in as mine were.


    ""I've done quite a bit of DIY work but never with bearings. What do I need to be aware of regarding handling and seating of the new bearings? Are there places on the bearing itself that I can damage if I'm not careful? You mentioned using washers to protect the "races" when seating the bearings. I have a feel for what you are referring to but I want to make sure. What would a seating tool look like?""


    Once you get the old bearings out and clean up the bearing hubs of rust you can use the old bearings and lay it on top of the new bearing and lightly tap with a small scrap of wood to beging seating the bearing in the Outer Tub hubs. They need to seat squarley and be driven in/seated squarely into the hubs of the Outer Tub.


    This was my first time at seating bearings I googled seating bearings, looked at U-Tube vids to get a feel for how to protect and seat the bearings properly. Some folks on other forums went to Auto Zone and rented bearing seating tools. I used my 2.5lb hammer shown in the pics at the front end of this thread and scrap 2*4 cut down to seat the Outer Tub bearings.


    I also describe how I seated the bearings in the Spinner Support. The 6002-2RS bearing was easy the SCE-910 caged needle bearing on the Clutch Pully side was just as easy read my comments in the post for seating those two bearings. The two primary forum members in this post elected to replace those bearings also and had no issue.


    If you have a family member or friend/neighbor that has seated bearings they could give you some over the sholder guidance. Just take you time and ask questions if un-sure. I'm a DIY'er like you but I'm an electronics Tech by trade ad I was feeling my way thru the process with no support but the SM, Google and You Tube.


    ""One other note on your "See if you can rotate the Tumblers they will move slightly." comment. The tumblers will move but there is a lot of resistance. There is also a loud noise, similar to what I would here when running the diagnostic tests. Should I hear any noise and how free should the tumblers move?""


    ""There is also a loud noise, similar to what I would here when running the diagnostic tests. Should I hear any noise""


    There could be something like loose pocket change under the tumblers I think you will need to remove the tumblers and see if you can locate the noise source. Is the noise a grinding sound?


    ""how free should the tumblers move?""


    A lot of resistance because of the gearing in the tranny.


    I would read thru this thread/post and the SM and make sure you are comfortable of how to proceed. Bag your parts and lable, take dig pic if necessary of where parts go for refference.


    Maybe some folks from past rebuilds will chime in.



    I'm in the process of modifying my heating plant so I may be slow to respond at times..........Dick


    A couple of useful links

    Best vid in a quick search
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMDNjfcVRss

    http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1401/how-to-replace-the-bearings-on-a-washing-mach.html

    I would not use the chisel method for seating the bearings. Wish our Outer Tub could be split in half to ease bearing replacement.
    http://www.mlittle.com/applianc...ne/bearings/bearings.php

    This is how you would seat the SCE-910 bearing I did it in a similiar fashon.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OM50jnp3KuE

    http://www.machinediagnostics.com/pdf/Bearings,%20Gears%20and%20Lubrication/Bearing%20Mounting%20Basics.pdf

    Again I would have you reach out locally to someone who has the concept down of seating bearings and you will be good to go.......Dick










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    robksu  
    #94 Posted : Wednesday, November 23, 2011 6:32:58 PM(UTC)
    robksu

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    I'll take a look at those posts. I, like you am an electrical guy, EE by trade. This is all new to me:)

    As of right now I'm still trying to get the spinner bolts out. I've had bad luck with that today. I don't have an impact wrench but I was using my hammer drill with the 1/2" socket attachment. After a good soak with PB Blaster, the first bolt I tried didn't budge and the second one sheared right off. I soaked the remaining five bolts again and waited a few hours. I tried a few more bolts with no avail and then broke off a second one. Not good! When the break, they break on the first application of force. It makes me wonder if they weren't overstressed to begin with. I've put close to half the can of Blaster on them as it keeps getting absorbed. I'll give it a go again tomorrow morning and hope to have better luck.

    How did you go about removing the rest of the bolt you sheared off?

    What are the spinner bolts threaded into? Is that replaceable?

    Good news is that the tranny looks and sounds good, just as you suspected.

    I have until next week when the bearings will arrive so I guess there is no need to rush the bolt removal.

    Any thoughts?

    Rob
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    dh1200s  
    #95 Posted : Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:00:37 PM(UTC)
    dh1200s

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    Hate to here that if you read thru the thread you and I are the only ones that had this happen. The Spinner support bolts are self tappers. If you can drill the stud out with out enlarging the hole a step up to the next size self tapper.

    I only sheared off one with my ½”air impact.

    I had a local machine shop drill out the one I sheared off and installed stainless helicoil inserts on all six with stainless hardware. That’s the way this should have been engineered from the get go.

    I have a local Amish machine shop near by me in Southeast PA and got out the door for around $50.

    The Spinner Support sells for around $250 last time I checked the generic p/n is 25001057.

    The p/n on this site is AP4033625 I would go the stainless helicoil inserts direction.

    Got to pull the plug I will have some additional info for you tomorrow………….Dick
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    robksu  
    #96 Posted : Friday, November 25, 2011 2:56:58 PM(UTC)
    robksu

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    Dick,

    I hope you had an enjoyable Thanksgiving. Thanks for the note yesterday morning. I had seen the posts regarding your luck with the spinner bolts. I did talk to a buddy of mine who has a machine shop at work that can put in the SS heli-coils. Now I just have to get the other four bolts out. Do you know what material the spinner plate is made of? Is it a zinc or aluminum casting?

    The PB Blaster has been soaking on the remaining four spinner bolts for over 48hrs now. Not sure how long it should take. I gave them another tug today and got nowhere. I'm not holding out much luck on getting them out quickly and in one piece.

    On a positive note, I did receive my new clutch pulley assembly today. The bearings and other parts should start arriving early next week.

    Thanks again
    Rob
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    dh1200s  
    #97 Posted : Saturday, November 26, 2011 5:10:48 PM(UTC)
    dh1200s

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    Rob,

    It’s aluminum from what I can tell. I feel that SS Helicoil inserts and all SS hardware is the best direction to go.

    “”On a positive note, I did receive my new clutch pulley assembly today. The bearings and other parts should start arriving early next week.””

    Good deal on the Clutch Pulley. I would recommend you take what I call the Spinner Shaft Coupler and do the little test I mentioned in this link #9 (permalink)

    Try this before you re-lube the One-Way bearings. See if both the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing and the Upper Bearing ring One-Way bearing lock up in one direction. Even if they lock up solid in one direction out of the bag I would re-lube with """slick 50"" one lube" before installing.

    Keep in mind the Upper Bearing Ring One-Way bearing is pressed in so it locks up One Way opposite the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing.

    The Upper Bearing ring allows the Wash Basket to be Spun by the Spinner Support (riding in the Outer Tub bearings) with CCW Clutch Pulley rotation the Spin Cycle direction. This Upper Bearing Ring One-Way bearing locks up to prevent the wash basket from rotating with CW Clutch Pulley rotation which is the wash/agitate direction of Clutch Pulley rotation.

    If that Upper Bearing Ring One-Way bearing slipped in agitate/wash cycle which is CW rotation of the Clutch Pulley. The wash basket would start to bang around in wash cycle and trip the TDS sensor to signal a DC or UC unbalance error to the Control Board/Console LED display.

    That took me a while to understand on a different forum of a owner experiencing unbalance errors in Wash Cycle.

    Good Luck take your time on the rebuild and you should be OK………….Dick
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    robksu  
    #98 Posted : Monday, November 28, 2011 9:50:24 PM(UTC)
    robksu

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    Dick,

    I finally got the remaining spinner support bolts out this eveving. After that, the rest of the tear down went pretty smoothly. The outer tub bearings are both out. The spinner shaft bearings both show rust and the tub seal looked realy bad. Looks like both the O-ring and tub seal failed.

    Should there be grease on the spinner shaft or the spinner support? I'm thinking that this may have leaked from the old bearings.

    The new outer tub bearings and spinner shaft bearings arrived today.

    It will be a few days before I can get the spinner support back with the helicoils. In the meantime, I'll get the bearing hubs cleaned up and outer tub bearings installed.

    I'll post some pictures of the tear down over the next few days.

    Rob
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    dh1200s  
    #99 Posted : Monday, November 28, 2011 10:38:47 PM(UTC)
    dh1200s

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    “”Should there be grease on the spinner shaft or the spinner support? I'm thinking that this may have leaked from the old bearings.””

    Yep that's where it came from. Pop the rubber seal off on one of the old bearings and you will see.

    ""The new outer tub bearings and spinner shaft bearings arrived today.""
    Good deal

    ""It will be a few days before I can get the spinner support back with the helicoils. In the meantime, I'll get the bearing hubs cleaned up and outer tub bearings installed.""

    When you go to seat your Spinner Support make sure you remove the old Tub Seal sleeve off the Spinner Support shaft if you haven't done so already, see #37 (permalink)

    Rob sounds like you are moving right along.

    Good Luck with the rebuild............Dick
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    robksu  
    #100 Posted : Tuesday, November 29, 2011 9:55:34 AM(UTC)
    robksu

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    Dick,

    I did remove the old Tub Seal sleeve as you had suggested. The drawing in #4 (permalink) mentions applying Alvania Grease to the radius of the spinner plate just above where the tub seal would sit. I'm trying to understand what is going on there. The tub seal sleeve must spin in the tub seal as the spinner plate rotates and this grease there to lubricate that joint over time. This doesn't seem to make sense as I would think that the tub water would wash this grease away relatively quickly. What am I missing? I noticed that some of the other owners used Vaseline. There are several types of Alvania Grease. I am guessing that the RL series is the right stuff for this job... waterproof lithium. If I can't find it, I am guessing any waterproof lithium grease would work. Do you agree?

    That same drawing, #4 (permalink), also mentions "transfer grease from the original Spinner Support Shaft" but there is very little grease to "transfer". This seems like an odd instruction. Did you use a particular type of lubricant for this step?

    Rob
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