Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

2 Pages12>
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
richappy  
#1 Posted : Saturday, January 24, 2009 8:44:35 AM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
This is the beginning of an article about wood burning stoves and will be updated periodically.
I learned the hard way about selecting the right BTU/hr stove.
To burn wood most efficiently and without a lot of smoke and creosote, you must maintain a stack temperature higher than 250 degrees, essentually a fire that does not "smolder".
To do this you must carefully select the wood burner that will provide the heat needed, yet not too big to require constant mainenance. If the woodburner is too big, maintaining a high stack temperature will require frequently maintaining a small fire to prevent overheating the room it is in.
All the modern temperature and air control features will not solve this basic problem!
More later about possible adding a water jacket.
Looked over all the possibilities of heat distribution including a wood burning boiler with a water jacket to feed my existing radiators. I concluded that adding a small wood burner in the other section of the house was the cheapest and most effective solution. There will be plenty of people selling their undersized wood burners this Summer and plenty of contractors willing to do the work.
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
Hearthman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, January 25, 2009 11:10:15 AM(UTC)
Hearthman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Expert
Joined: 11/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19

Water jackets on wood stoves? Now there's an explosive combination. Richappy, I hope you full investigate this concept before putting your ideas here in public because there is a huge liability and danger with what you are describing.

Adding a water jacket would bring a stove under the IMC requirements for "pressure vessels" and the IFC. Your State may have additional requirements as well.

Think of it this way: if it is such a good idea, don't you think the mfr.s would be producing something that is tested and listed which can be sold and installed.

I recommend you pick a woodstove as a zone radiant heater and live with it that way. You can find a lot if useful info. at HPBA: HPBA
Hearthman
richappy  
#3 Posted : Sunday, January 25, 2009 11:56:42 AM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
Yes Hearthman, I allready gave up the idea and will put another wood burner in. The expense and complications of hookup have turned me off of a wood burner boiler, just too complicated to interface with existing radiators.
I know someone who tried it himself and never added a pressure relief valve!
richappy  
#4 Posted : Monday, January 26, 2009 12:21:47 AM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
I see where a local manufacturer of wood stoves offers a water jacket as an option, but they do not claim there stoves meet any kind of standard! This illustrates the fact that you are better off getting a certified stove.
For a very good source of info, go to web site Informational Articles about Wood Stoves, Pellet Stoves, Corn Stoves and and More.
They say there that I need an 11000 BTU/hr stove to heat my area and I presently have an 100,000BTU/hr stove, way too much.
I intend to replace this stove with a 30,000BTU/hr stove. I will buy an EPA certified stove (non-catalytic converter type) with high efficiency and install a stack heat reclaimer with a fan enclosed that is maintainable. This stove will have a glass door and stack thermometer. This extra expense should pay for itself in a few years.
The intent is to try and keep a fire going all night without attendance. May require a damping down to increase burning time, but not as much as my present one. Considering the money spent and other variables like outside temperature, I want plenty of BTU/hr margin, nothing like finding I have a stove too small!!
As allways, in this area, I admit I am not an expert, so do not hold me responsible in case of error. Good luck.
After extensive searching, I found the ideal stove, a Striker S 160, but at $1600 it is way overpriced. Will look for something a bit cheaper! Also, I realize the local Lowe's and Home Depo offer stoves that have the same ineficiency as my present one, just look better. The Striker offers an efficiency of over 87% which means I will probably save over $130/ year on firewood, worth the $600 extra cost.
Plus, the dramatic reduction of creosote and ash is to be considered and the future price of wood which might just get a lot more expensive in the future.
richappy  
#5 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2009 3:25:47 AM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
After reading the article in a web site News, Magazines, Newspapers, Journals, Reference Articles and Classic Books - Free Online Library I realize the most practical and efficient wood burners are the ones with advanced air control featured in the EPA certified Blaze King and Vermont stoves. Another fine stove is the Osborn 1600 available at Nothline in Michigan, an area needing sales.
They can be damped down with decent efficiency. The smaller firebox units have trouble getting the efficiency stated and require more maintenance/loading.
While searching around, I am noticing few manufacturers are quoting efficiencies, except for Vermont casting. If you can find a EPA certified stove, it's probably around 75% efficient, only 10% less efficient than the Striker. Apparently, they are using less dense firebrick to do this. For me, that represents only a $80 per year savings.
richappy  
#6 Posted : Sunday, February 8, 2009 2:25:19 AM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
I will check my house with a 500 cfm squirrel cage blower. I feal it will be sufficient to distribute the heat to the entire house. It will be a 115 volt unit with an induction motor that I can control with a speed control.
If this works, I will need to revise my btu reguirements upward to a 60,000 BTU/Hr wood burner.
Hearthman  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, March 4, 2009 6:05:15 AM(UTC)
Hearthman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Expert
Joined: 11/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19

I recommend you check out the Quadrafire stoves. They have been the cleanest burning for the last 16 or more yrs, are very well made, and are backed by a huge mfr. who is solvent with no real corp debt.

I strongly advise against any sort of heat reclaimer on the stovepipe because they can kill the draft and cause creosote buildup which leads to chimney fires. Pick an EPA Phase II stove built by a mfr. who will be around inspite of this economy then install it and burn it to the listed instructions, inspect frequently, sweep often and have it professionally inspected annually.
Not sure what you mean by air grilles. If you are referring to passive outdoor makeup air, they do not work. ASHRAE conducted a professional study about 8 yrs ago which disproved passive MUA. Fix the house and the fireplace/ stove will work.

Rich, you can use existing ductwork to distribute the extra heat from the stove or use a small portable fan on low to push the heat into other spaces.
HTH,
Hearthman
richappy  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, March 4, 2009 6:19:58 AM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
Heartman;
You will not believe this, but I was just getting ready to esentually say the same thing!!!
I have selected the Quadra Fire 3100 Millennium wood burner! I was just getting ready to add this to my article!!
Also, my local dealor handles them. Some negatives I have read are to not buy the painted ones as the paint can peal and the firebox upper baffle will be a problem when loading odd shaped logs. Other than that, the unit has very good reviews.
Most important, the unit will provide efficient burning at a wide selection of heat settings.
I will have a local Amish guy (Peachy) install it, he is an expert and installed my last one.
Apparently, this stove will efficiently burn firewood with a stack temperature below 250 degrees, which makes the stove useable at outside temperatures much warmer than most stoves without the advanced firebox.
mikes334  
#9 Posted : Friday, November 27, 2009 10:15:33 AM(UTC)
mikes334

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/27/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

Sounds like a great unit. What type of stove pipe are you using?
richappy  
#10 Posted : Friday, November 27, 2009 1:23:53 PM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
Regular stove pipe indoors, triple insulated stainless steel up to the top of the roof with reinforcing braces.
Users browsing this topic
Guest (7)
2 Pages12>
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.