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Sean SL  
#1391 Posted : Monday, October 31, 2011 4:36:53 PM(UTC)
Sean SL

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I found a sensor that is actually wired into the harness. One lead from the heater is wired into it. Would this be the sensor to test? Am I correct that I will have continuity when it is frozen and none when it is warmed up?
Gene  
#1392 Posted : Tuesday, November 1, 2011 1:41:40 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: Sean SL Go to Quoted Post
I found a sensor that is actually wired into the harness. One lead from the heater is wired into it. Would this be the sensor to test? Am I correct that I will have continuity when it is frozen and none when it is warmed up?


Yes, that's right.

Gene.
Brock  
#1393 Posted : Saturday, November 12, 2011 4:25:18 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Check the air return vent from the fresh food compartment into the freezer compartment, located to the left of the fresh produce drawer, for any blockage.

Gene.


Kenmore 363.9537721 parts diagram shows Duct Air Return FF but I don't see one from either side. Is it behind some panel? All I see are Duct Mullion FF and Duct Mullion FRZ.
Brock  
#1394 Posted : Saturday, November 12, 2011 4:34:49 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.


3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

Gene.


Kenmore 363.9537721. I don't find a Defrost Timer in the parts diagram. I do find a Defrost Thermostat.
Gene  
#1395 Posted : Saturday, November 12, 2011 2:35:58 PM(UTC)
Gene

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What exactly is wrong with your refrigerator?

Gene.
Sean SL  
#1396 Posted : Saturday, November 12, 2011 2:40:37 PM(UTC)
Sean SL

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Yes, that's right.

Gene.


I opened up the freezer again and checked the bi-metal switch. Frozen- Continuity, Thawed- open. So I have ordered the controller.

I sure hope that that's the problem.
Brock  
#1397 Posted : Monday, November 14, 2011 4:20:26 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
What exactly is wrong with your refrigerator?

Gene.


Freezer ok (or too cold) refrig too warm. Some frost on back wall of freez. Following your steps. Found defrost timer. Didn't seem to have any effect. Checking defrost heater next. Kenmore 363.9537721
szwedj  
#1398 Posted : Monday, November 14, 2011 6:29:14 AM(UTC)
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I have a GE that is not cold in the fridge side, has frost build up inside on the rear freezer wall, so I thinking it's a defrost problem. When I look up the parts list I did not see a timer listed, my question is, is there like a system control board in these units that are common to go bad?

Thanks,
Joe
Gene  
#1399 Posted : Monday, November 14, 2011 12:41:14 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: Brock Go to Quoted Post
Freezer ok (or too cold) refrig too warm. Some frost on back wall of freez. Following your steps. Found defrost timer. Didn't seem to have any effect. Checking defrost heater next. Kenmore 363.9537721


Can you explain it more detailed?



Did you see an excessive frost build up on the evaporator coils?

Did you check the defrost thermostat for continuity?

Gene.
Gene  
#1400 Posted : Monday, November 14, 2011 12:44:07 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: szwedj Go to Quoted Post
I have a GE that is not cold in the fridge side, has frost build up inside on the rear freezer wall, so I thinking it's a defrost problem. When I look up the parts list I did not see a timer listed, my question is, is there like a system control board in these units that are common to go bad?

Thanks,
Joe


Joe,

The defrost timer is shown as #257 on the diagram.

Gene.
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