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If you can post a pictures of the heating coil and the control panel - it might help for more accurate advise.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Hi thiendia, The problem with your dryer caused by a bad gas valve coils . No doubt about it. - The part number for the coil kit is AP3094251 Gene. Hi Gene, The part came! Super fast! I replaced it and the dryer worked very well! :D Thanks a million times for your help!
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I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
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how to check the wires in a wall oven for shorts(frigidare FEB24S5ABB)
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Great post on checking continuity - I have always had a hard time understanding how to properly use one of these meters so I thank you for taking the time to put this together.
Much appreciated,
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I have replaced the Heating Element and Thermostate next to the heating element and it still does not heat Please HELP
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Davidr,
Can you be more specific on the problem? What is the complete model number of the unit?
Gene.
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Electric Dryer.
I've just performed the following Checks:
Element p/n 279838/3403585 (Heating Inlet) ...Good Continuity @ 11.4 ohms (Schematic says should be 7.8 to 11.8 ohms)
Voltage...Zero Volts across terminals, 120v to Ground (Element housing).
Thermal Cut-off p/n 3977393 (Heating Inlet, Top) ...Good Continuity
Voltage...Zero Volts across terminals, 120v to Ground (Element housing).
Hi-Limit Thermostat p/n 3977767 (Heating Inlet, at Element) ...Good Continuity
Voltage...Zero Volts across terminals, 120v to Ground.
Thermal Fuse p/n 3392519 (Exhaust Outlet) ...Good Continuity
Voltage...Zero Volts across terminals, 120v to Ground.
Internal Bias Thermostat p/n 3387134 (Exhaust Outlet) ...Good Continuity
Voltage...Zero Volts across Large terminals, 120v to Ground. Small Terminals Infinity/OPEN.
Continuity looks good, but I'm not getting 240v at any point.
Found the Wiring Schematic in the upper compartment containing the Start Switch and Timer.
According to the Continuity Chart at the top of the Schematic, with the Timer set to "Auto-Reg/High" I should be reading an open circuit between BK-BU and BU-V. I read a closed circuit between BK and BU (as I said, the circuit read closed). The next column contradicts it by saying the BK-BU circuit should be closed. I get the same results with the Timer in the "Timed-Reg/High" position.
HUH???
Am I reading the chart wrong?
My understanding of the caption "BK-BU-V" is: BK(Black) to BU(Blue), BU to V(Violet).
Is this correct, or am I missing something here?
I maintain a $2.5 million helicopter, and regularly use Schematics, but this Whirlpool Continuity Chart has me confused due to the above.
Or do I in fact have a bad Timer? :confused:
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Originally Posted by: heloego ...Element p/n 279838/3403585 (Heating Inlet) Voltage...Zero Volts across terminals, 120v to Ground (Element housing)... Did you disconnect the wires from the heating element prior to the test? Did you read 120VAC between each wire to ground or only one of them? If only one then which one? The dryer should run at time of this test. Check the timer for continuity between the "BK" & "R" terminals at any cycle (the wires have to be removed). Be careful not to electrocute yourself. Gene.
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This article answered my question on test results with my ohm meter ,great site,great article for those of us who only use ohm meters occasionaly. thanks,Ernie
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