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Thanks, Gene,
I see the thermostat on the parts diagram, so maybe I am trying to check the ice maker the wrong way and not letting it get cold enough. Is there a threshold temperature at which the thermostat allows the motor to run and above which it does not? The older motor assembly will run at room temperature, but the newer one will not. Could the thermostat also affect the voltage measured at the L and N ports?
The newer ice maker has a potted device on the black lead of the wiring harness that clips to the ice mold while the older one does not; I think I measured about 75 ohms resistance in the lead with device. What is the purpose of it? Also, what is the purpose of the little white slotted screw on both motor module's side that seems to move a set of contacts in the motor housing?
I'd like to be sure the ice maker module is the real problem before I spend $125. Right now the older motor module on the newer ice maker will run a cycle on the counter at room temp with 120V applied to black and white leads, but it still won't run when plugged into the refrigerator's connector.
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Gene; My icemaker has been out for some time, so I ran the tests you recommended below. There is no voltage across the N&L terminals. However, when I unplugged the icemaker and measured the voltage across incoming leads, it was only about 92-93 volts and the voltage going to the water valve is only about 89-90 volts. Is this normal for a Whirlpool? Model No. GD5RHAXNQ00. Before I buy a new icemaker, however, the compressor has been making a knocking noise about every hour or so. This has been going on for the better part of a year. The compressor appears to be well anchored to the bracket but is hot to the touch (if that means anything bad). Otherwise, both refrigerator and freezer (side by side) appear to be cooling adequately. Just measured the freezer at between 10 and 0 degrees F. Is this knocking noise a problem a pro can easily fix or is it an indication that my refrigerator is on its way out. Thanks Originally Posted by: Gene  The first thing I would check is the temperature in the freezer (it suppose to be bellow 12°F) and the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage. If there is a water filter - how old is it? Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in. If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution. Post the results. Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper refrigerator Model RS22AQXKQ00Gene.
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Originally Posted by: mallisonb ...Is this knocking noise a problem a pro can easily fix or is it an indication that my refrigerator is on its way out... If it comes from inside of the compressor then it's not repairable. The life time of such compressor is unpredictable. In regards of the ice maker problems, you may want to replace the optic boards first. Gene.
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In regards of the ice maker problems, you may want to replace the optic boards first.
Gene. So even if the red light appears to be functioning correctly, the optics boards can effect the functionality of the icemaker?
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Yes, because it supplies power for the ice maker.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Yes, because it supplies power for the ice maker.
Gene. Thought so. I already ordered the part on that assumption. Thanks a bunch
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By the way, after pulling my refrigerator away from the wall and removing the little cardboard panel that covers the compressor, I haven't heard the compressor make that knocking noise. The fridge is still sitting in the middle of my kitchen floor so I don't know if moving it back will have any effect. Not sure why it would unless sitting in a corner creates a lot of heat build up that stresses the compression and makes it act up.
Thanks for what you do. You've been a great help.
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You are welcome.
It's hard to say what caused that noise. It could the cardboard cover interfering with some moving parts, the fan blade touching the frame or something else like that. Carefully move it back in place and make sure it is leveled and the floor under the refrigerator is firm.
Gene.
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I have an icemaker with similar concern, I have replaced the dual water valve and still get no water. Do I replace the module or is it chaeper and feasible to replace icemaker assy? I am going to test the jumper wire this evening. Thanks in advance!
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Danny, If the temperature in the freezer is no more than 5°F and the water line into the ice maker is not blocked then the solution is to replace the whole ice maker. It makes the repair much more reliable than fixing the old ice maker. If the ice maker harness plug is flat then you can use the ice maker Part number: AP4360346
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