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thanks for the parts and help, but now I need more help
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I just replaced the motor coupling on my washer with your excellent, expert online help and parts from your online store. When I put it back together, it worked fine for 8-10 washes then in the middle of a load it stopped agitating, spinning and pumping. I have three questions: 1. Does this model have two capacitors? (Like a start and a run) 2. Is it possible for a capacitor to only function correctly on an intermittent basis? 3. Is it possible to hurt a capacitor by reversing the wired connectors? (I may have done that on reassembly) The motor and coupling appear to be fine. Near as I can tell there is no dead short in the motor and it spins freely. I tested the capacitor attached to the outside of the motor with help from the internet and it 'tests' good. The lid switch appears to be functioning, When it is engaged the motor hums but will not turn. Thank you for your attention and I look forward to hearing from you.
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What does it do when it's assembled and you try to run it? If the motor hums, remove the motor and check how it works with no load.
If it works fine then the problem can be a foreign object inside the pump.
The model number you posted does not come up. Verify and repost it please.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/8/2011(UTC) Posts: 6
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Sorry Gene, I transposed the 2 and the 1, model # is 110.92093120 When assembled now, it will fill, but just hums when it comes time to agitate/spin/pump The pump is clear, I checked it the last time I had it off. New information: this morning, when I removed the motor in preparation to test it as you suggested. I noticed that the shaft on the motor moves back and forth about a half inch on its axis. The motor shaft spins freely. There is also (for lack of a better term) a flywheel with springs on it inside the casing on the pump end of the motor. It moves back and forth on the shaft and does not appear to be firmly attached to the shaft. Is this normal? and if it is, how do I test the motor outside of the machine.....which contacts do I use on the plug on the side. Thanks for your advice!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Originally Posted by: disc-golfer 1. ...a flywheel with springs on it inside the casing on the pump end of the motor...
2. ...how do I test the motor outside of the machine... 1. I'm afraid I did not get it clear. If you can post a picture of it then it might help better. 2. Remove the motor from the washer but leave the plug in. Bypass the lid switch, place the motor next to the washer and turn it on. Measure the current drawn by the motor. Post the results. Gene. P.S. Unfortunately I could not find the wiring diagram for this model.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/8/2011(UTC) Posts: 6
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I can try to get a picture of the "flywheel". it is inside the motor casing on the shaft which will make it difficult. I'll give it a shot and post it here asap. I believe the wiring diagram is still inside the washer. if so I will scan and post it as well. Do not know how to measure current drawn by the motor, can you enlighten me? Can you tell me if it is normal to have 1/2 in of play in the shaft of any motor on the horizontal axis? If not then this is just an excercise in futility and I just need to get a new motor. I suspect it is not normal.....don't believe I have ever seen a motor with any play in the shaft, but then, I have never spent much time with washer motors
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Looks like the part you called "flywheel" is the centrifugal switch. The motor shaft should play a little bit. I do not think there is something wrong.
Check all motor plugs for tight connections and possible broken wires and run the motor as instructed in the previous post.
Can you describe more detailed how did you check the capacitor please?
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/8/2011(UTC) Posts: 6
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I just tested the motor as instructed, it appears to run just fine. Still waiting for instructions on how to measure how much current it draws. How I tested the capacitor is as follows: disconnected it from the motor and discharged it using a screwdriver to connect the two terminals. set my multimeter to rx10 ohms and touched the leads to the terminals. The meter ran up to about 50 ohms and then slowly fell back to infinity, which is what the instructions I found on the internet said should happen if it was good. Is the centrifugal switch supposed to be able to move back and forth on the shaft of the motor?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Originally Posted by: disc-golfer ...I just tested the motor as instructed, it appears to run just fine... According to this result very likely the problem is a bad transmission. With the motor removed try to move the transmission coupler in both directions, clockwise first. If it's jammed, then the transmission has gone bad. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/8/2011(UTC) Posts: 6
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According to this result very likely the problem is a bad transmission.
Tested transmission this morning as soon as I got your message. Transmission is fine, moves freely and smoothly in both directions. I'm beginning to suspect pump, I put it on motor during another test of motor this morning. Although it does turn, it sounds rough and does not turn smoothly by hand. Unless you have another idea, that's where I'm leaning.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/8/2011(UTC) Posts: 6
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As I reassembled the washer, I also discovered that the pump is leaking when it is pumping......guess that's my next purchase! THANK YOU Gene, you have been a wealth of information and a HUGE help. I will continue this string if I need any more help.
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thanks for the parts and help, but now I need more help
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