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After 4 years of almost daily use, my MDB7601AWB will not start. We can select the cycle:  The time then appears flashing on the front panel, waiting for you to close the door and press <Start>:  Nothing happens, however when you push either button on the front panel, <Start> or <Delay>. Since that is the exact same way it acts when the door is open, I pulled the connectors from both door switches and tested them first. Both are working normally. I found the gasket that seals the steam vent to the outer door shell was off-center when the door was assembled:  This would have allowed steam to enter the door cavity on every wash cycle. There is some evidence of the effects from the steam inside the door: The foam paper insulation is drooping on that side from being wet and heavy:  And the thick insulation foam strip (PN AP4263539) has deformed, separated from the door and is also drooping down:  I cleaned the ends on both of the ribbon cables:  But the problem persists. Is there anything else I can check? Thanks in advance for your assistance! [SIDEBAR: The steam vent gasket problem was probably initiated a year or two ago when a repairman came out to take care of recall work. I think the inside door panel and the control board were replaced due to fire concerns. That visit probably created this problem. Not that it makes a difference today...]
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Originally Posted by: k5wls  After 4 years of almost daily use, my MDB7601AWB will not start. We can select the cycle: The time then appears flashing on the front panel, waiting for you to close the door and press <Start>: Nothing happens, however when you push either button on the front panel, <Start> or <Delay>. Since that is the exact same way it acts when the door is open, I pulled the connectors from both door switches and tested them first. Both are working normally. I found the gasket that seals the steam vent to the outer door shell was off-center when the door was assembled: This would have allowed steam to enter the door cavity on every wash cycle. There is some evidence of the effects from the steam inside the door: The foam paper insulation is drooping on that side from being wet and heavy: And the thick insulation foam strip (PN AP4263539) has deformed, separated from the door and is also drooping down: I cleaned the ends on both of the ribbon cables: But the problem persists. Is there anything else I can check? Thanks in advance for your assistance! [SIDEBAR: The steam vent gasket problem was probably initiated a year or two ago when a repairman came out to take care of recall work. I think the inside door panel and the control board were replaced due to fire concerns. That visit probably created this problem. Not that it makes a difference today...] K5wls, The first place to start, Circuit test the touchpad buttons, on the front control panel according to the Tech Date Sheet on the back of the kick plate panel. Did you use alcohol to clean the ribbon and connector, or the pencil eraser trick ? Remember, once you've got the dishwasher repaired, Put a thin coat of di electric grease, or vaseline, on and around all the connectors(including the ribbons) to keep any moisture or contaminants out, you'll be fine from there on out. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Thank you, Joe, for your prompt response, and thanks for letting me know about the testing information on the data sheet.
All of the buttons on the top edge of the door tested good. The <Start/Cancel> and the <Delay> buttons on the front both fail the test; they show as open even when pressed. I'm going to try spraying some contact cleaner in the slot where the ribbon cable enters into the front panel while working the buttons and then test again. Hey if steam can get in and ruin the contacts maybe the contact cleaner will have an impact.
I guess it must make sense to somebody to build both keypads into into a piece of the door so that the failure of a cheap contact switch requires the replacement of a $200 part, but it sure doesn't make sense to me!
I have some di-electric grease and won't forget to use it thanks to your comment. I really appreciate the assistance!
Rick
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Originally Posted by: k5wls Thank you, Joe, for your prompt response, and thanks for letting me know about the testing information on the data sheet.
All of the buttons on the top edge of the door tested good. The <Start/Cancel> and the <Delay> buttons on the front both fail the test; they show as open even when pressed. I'm going to try spraying some contact cleaner in the slot where the ribbon cable enters into the front panel while working the buttons and then test again. Hey if steam can get in and ruin the contacts maybe the contact cleaner will have an impact.
I guess it must make sense to somebody to build both keypads into into a piece of the door so that the failure of a cheap contact switch requires the replacement of a $200 part, but it sure doesn't make sense to me!
I have some di-electric grease and won't forget to use it thanks to your comment. I really appreciate the assistance!
Rick Rick, Great Job. Sometimes, cleaning the ribbon ends and the board connector, will "keep you going" for a while. Hope it'll work, But you're on top of it. Assisting you is our pleasure, if you need more, drop us a line. Thanks, Good Luck, :) :) :)
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I have a similar problem with my Maytag MDB7809AWQ2. How were you able to test the <Start/Cancel> and the <Delay> buttons on the front of the unit? Thankyou in advance
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Originally Posted by: nbees1 I have a similar problem with my Maytag MDB7809AWQ2. How were you able to test the <Start/Cancel> and the <Delay> buttons on the front of the unit? Thankyou in advance Nbees, You'll need to remove the lower access panel and kickplate from the front of the dishwasher. and search for the Tech Data Sheet, it's in a plastic envelope attached to the backside of the panel. You'll turn the power off to the dishwasher, open the door and remove the screws across the top and the upper two(2) screws on the side of the inner door panel. (you can also remove all the screws on the inner panel and remove the door outer panel and control panel, if you'd feel better). You then disconnect the Keypad ribbon connector from the Printed circuit control board connector. Using a multimeter, Part number: AP3873826
and the data sheet, you will put the probes across the two(2) reccomended pins of the ribbon, press the appropriate button on the panel, and check for the proper resistance specified by the data sheet. Improper, or no resistance would indicate a bad button/key pad,when pressed. If the unit is "dead" no display, start, etc. you can also check the door switches and wiring, while you have the door apart. Here's some meter usage information if you need it http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.htmlGood Luck, :) :) :)
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Joe, Thanks you for the quick reply. I found the data sheet, I was able to test the door latch with the door closed. I was also able to test the control board by disconnecting the ribbbon cable from the key pad, then restore power the unit started the drain cycle. The LEDS on the key pad passed the test with the sevice diag. test. I tried the keyswitch resistance testing without success, even on a known good key/button would not measure any resistance. I thought I read somewhere that this tesy may not be valid for all keypads? Any ideas?
Thanks again
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Originally Posted by: nbees1 Joe, Thanks you for the quick reply. I found the data sheet, I was able to test the door latch with the door closed. I was also able to test the control board by disconnecting the ribbbon cable from the key pad, then restore power the unit started the drain cycle. The LEDS on the key pad passed the test with the sevice diag. test. I tried the keyswitch resistance testing without success, even on a known good key/button would not measure any resistance. I thought I read somewhere that this tesy may not be valid for all keypads? Any ideas?
Thanks again Nbees, Yes, testing key pad ribbons can be a pain, and are not very reliable. A lot of people, don't test them anymore. In general, with the information you supplied in your post, repalce the control panel/keypad assembly, Part number: AP4456942
It's the most likely problem, at this point. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Joe, Thanks for your assistance I've replaced the control panel the unit is now operational.
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Originally Posted by: nbees1 Joe, Thanks for your assistance I've replaced the control panel the unit is now operational. Nbees, Great, glad you're up and running. Thanks for the update. It was my pleasure to help, and you did all the work. Thanks, Good Luck, :) :) :)
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