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It is is losing pwer, the power comes back on immediately when I reset it.... but this means opening the door and then closing it. Also, sometimes it randomly doesn't come back on in which case I have to open and close the door a couple of times. I don't understand how the door switch could be involved, though, since some cycles always work fine (like "rinse & hold" and usually "fast wash" with normal water temperature).
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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Correct, no fault codes. You are losing power somewhere, junction box, door switch, or the board. 1st thing I would check is the juction box wires, if all good there you'll want to check the door switch. You can take the wires off the switch and bypass it to see if it will run normal, make sure the door is closed or you'll get wet.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
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The door switch is the main componet, if it does not close or stay closed when it's washing, all washing will stop. You cannot run the dishwasher without the door switch in the closed position.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
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Very possible a relay on the board is bad if the switch is good
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Rank: Member
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Thanks abadfish66, you're a genius! You may be onto something here with the door switch. I tested the switch, and it appears to function normally. However, when I bypass the switch by pulling the leads from it and connecting them with a paper clip and some electrical tape, so far all of the cycles I've tried in the dishwasher have proceeded normally! Now I just have to figure out what's wrong with the switch. I can't tell if it is the switch itself or whether it is the mechanical connection that flips the switch. Like I say, the switch functions normally when I manually flip it... Thanks for saving me $300. I was going to buy a new control board and likely that wouldn't have solved anything.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
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Glad to point you in the cheap direction. Look for any sign of the plastic melting on the switch particularly where the spade enters the housing. These dishwashers, in my opinion had a pretty silly latch mechanism. So, pay good attention to the lever that activates the switch, also look at the strike on the dishwasher frame, that may be bent in a way that it is barely pushing down on the lever to close that switch. There is a screw that you can adjust the strike forward and back. You can also slightly bend the strike up or down if you need to make any adjustments there....Keep me posted.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/27/2008(UTC)
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I haven't figured out how the switch operates yet. It doesn't seem like the tongue thing attached to the dishwasher body can contact the lever arm that depresses the switch, so it must be the handle operation that closes the switch. There is a little metal strike plate that attaches to the handle that moves in the direction of the lever arm when you pull the handle to open the dishwasher door, but the bottom part of the lever doesn't extend far enough towards this plate that lifting the handle operates the switch. It's not clear how I would adjust the position of this strike plate (I don't see any screws). Perhaps the lever is broken or worn away here? It is pretty difficult to examine the lever in much detail since it is attached to a plastic housing.
By the way, it makes perfect sense that the door switch mechanism is the fault, because every time the dishwasher died, it would beep, and the only time that the dishwasher is supposed to beep, I think, is when the door is opened. I'm not sure how that beep is operating, either, because sometimes it still beeps now even that I've bypassed the door switch.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/27/2008(UTC)
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I think I will just leave the door switch bypassed. It is possible to pause the cycle to open it by pressing a key on the keypad. I can't see any way of adjusting the strike plate on the door handle. Maybe it is obvious if I remove the whole plastic frame?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You can't adjust the strike plate on the door, but you can adjust the one on the frame of the dishwasher. There is a screw under the top frame in the middle, if you loosen that you can move it forward and back, also if you need you can bend it up and down. Sometimes they just need a bit of adjustment.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/4/2010(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: abadfish66  You can't adjust the strike plate on the door, but you can adjust the one on the frame of the dishwasher. There is a screw under the top frame in the middle, if you loosen that you can move it forward and back, also if you need you can bend it up and down. Sometimes they just need a bit of adjustment. I have this dishwasher and I found the solder joints to break on the transformer to that is soldered to the control board. Stupid design, really - the solder joints are the only thing holding the transformer to the board, and of course with all the opening and closing of the door, it, over time, breaks the joints (in fact all 4 of them were poor). Once that was resolved, I had gotten rid of the 'ghost' behaviour in the machine. But now I have a new one - the unit constantly wants to send water down into the overfill tray - I have it set to the shortest fill time, and in fact have too little water in the unit. The common theme here is that more water is lost the longer I the cycle I run!!!! So if I run a short cycle, odds are very good that I will never have water exiting the overfill, but once I get into the longer cycles, you can see the water running down the overfill 'trough' into the overfill tray. I had disconnected the overfill signal wire to get to the bottom of this overfill problem, and I could not believe my eyes when I saw it running down!!! And of course, I also had a kitchen floor with water over it the first time I did the test :p . Any ideas on THIS one????
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