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The ignitor on my GE DDG7080S is not glowing when I start a cycle. I have checked the two fuses on the front of the dryer and they both have continuity, as does the flame sensor. The ignitor shows 137 ohms, but does not cause my meter to "beep" for a continuity check. However, when I took the ignitor out of the dryer and put 120V to it, it did glow, and nearly burned a hole in my workbench! So I'm assuming it is indeed OK, and something else upstream is preventing it from working. What else should I be looking at? As near as I can tell, this dryer does not have a thermal fuse. Is that correct?
Thank you in advance for your help.
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Originally Posted by: JoeW74  The ignitor on my GE DDG7080S is not glowing when I start a cycle. I have checked the two fuses on the front of the dryer and they both have continuity, as does the flame sensor. The ignitor shows 137 ohms, but does not cause my meter to "beep" for a continuity check. However, when I took the ignitor out of the dryer and put 120V to it, it did glow, and nearly burned a hole in my workbench! So I'm assuming it is indeed OK, and something else upstream is preventing it from working. What else should I be looking at? As near as I can tell, this dryer does not have a thermal fuse. Is that correct?
Thank you in advance for your help. Joe W, Correct, you don't have a thermal fuse in the heat circuit. But, your radiant/flame sensor should be a "closed" or "open" circuit, and closed at room temperature, You've probably got a bad sensor. Part number: AP2042635
Have you checked the resistance of the gas valve coils ? The 2 terminal coil should have a resistance of, 1000 to 1300 ohms. The 3 terminal coil should read 1300 to 1400 ohms from pin 1 to pin 2, and 500 to 600 ohms on pin1 and pin 3. From there you'll need to check voltage on all the heat circuit components, until we find the point where we're loosing power. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Joe,
Thanks for the detailed answer. Do I understand correctly that if the flame sensor is CLOSED at room temperature, then it is bad, or were you saying that it SHOULD be closed at room temperature.
I think I can handle all the other checks, but how do I safely run the dryer with the front panel off, since that is the only way to get at all of these items on this model?
Thanks in advance!
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Originally Posted by: JoeW74 Joe,
Thanks for the detailed answer. Do I understand correctly that if the flame sensor is CLOSED at room temperature, then it is bad, or were you saying that it SHOULD be closed at room temperature.
I think I can handle all the other checks, but how do I safely run the dryer with the front panel off, since that is the only way to get at all of these items on this model?
Thanks in advance! Joe, My fault, Yes, the radiant / flame sensor, should be a " closed " circuit, at room temperature(your meter should have beeped) . The voltage checks are easy to make, getting the unit to run can be pretty involved. Once you've got the front panel off, you woud need to bypass (connect together) the wires for the switch. You'd then need to remove he drum or disconnect the belt from the idler and motor pulley, and set it away from the drive assembly, plug in the power cord and start the dryer on a heat setting, and do the checks at the coil connectors. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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I have the same problem...There is continuity in all 3 sensors, the flame sensor, the coils check out fine, the ignitor is new and has continuity (after installing). The ignitor does not get 120 volts on startup, the meter blips a couple of volts (2-3) then nothing...Any suggestion?
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I found it! I tried the timer in different positions. It gives power in 'Automatic' mode but not in 'Timed Dry'. I believe it's the timer!
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Originally Posted by: patriotic1 I found it! I tried the timer in different positions. It gives power in 'Automatic' mode but not in 'Timed Dry'. I believe it's the timer! Patriotic1, Great job, based on your post description, I'd have to agree with you. The heat circuit contacts in the timer are the same and shouls close and send 120 VAC to the gas valve. Apparently we have a damaged contact inside the timer. Once you get a new timer installed, you should be able to dismantle the timer and find the damaged contacts and cam wheel. Thanks and Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Made an account just to say Thank you! I had been dealing with this issue for over a month but found this thread today and just like the gentleman was explaining, all my tests came out fine but the igniter would not light till I switched to automatic
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Originally Posted by: calor006 Made an account just to say Thank you! I had been dealing with this issue for over a month but found this thread today and just like the gentleman was explaining, all my tests came out fine but the igniter would not light till I switched to automatic Calor006, You're Very Welcome !!! Glad we could help you out. Keep the Repair Forum in mind, when you have a problem with your appliances. Thanks Again,
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