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denman  
#11 Posted : Tuesday, May 31, 2011 2:29:51 AM(UTC)
denman

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Took a hard look at the wiring diagram and noticed the following.

There is what looks like a heater that does hook into the damper motor.
It is just to the left of the control board in the wiring layout.
It is labelled Fast Freeze.
It does not show up on the wiring schematic.

I am not sure what this is doing but my guess is that they turn it on when you select fast freeze and then it adds some heat to the thermostat and that causes the freezer to go to a lower temperature.

Perhaps they are using the damper motor to limit the current to this heater.
At 6.5 ohms 120 volts it would be a 140 watt heater or pulling 18.5 amp which would be way too high.
So either they are doing the above or applying a lower voltage to it.

Hopefully Gene or someone else can either agree with my thoughts on this or have a better idea as to what it is.

Note: I am guessing so take what I say with a grain of salt.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
TMunsch  
#12 Posted : Tuesday, May 31, 2011 3:17:20 PM(UTC)
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Can you send to Gene? I already posted on the sticky, but I know you guys are busy. I really don't want to call a repairman, if I can just purchase the part here and install myself..

Thanks for your help so far..

T,
Gene  
#13 Posted : Wednesday, June 1, 2011 3:13:40 PM(UTC)
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Tom and denman,

I found this part too. On the wiring diagram it's shown as "Fast Freeze Heater" - optional part. On the parts list it's listed as "Heater-freezer control" with no reference number.

Checking out the "Owners manual", I found on page 12 that on SOME models there is an option which called "Extreme Freeze" and can be activated by the pad on the dispenser control panel. Looking at the dispenser control panel picture for your model

UserPostedImage

I did not find such pad. So I'm assuming this heater is unneeded part in your refrigerator and eliminating it would not hurt anything.

Further on, according to the description on the existing problem you posted, I would suspect the damper control assembly. Especially if there is no sufficient air flow into the fresh food compartment.

Gene.
TMunsch  
#14 Posted : Wednesday, June 1, 2011 3:51:27 PM(UTC)
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Okay, that part is cheap enough to try. Can you tell me what exactly initiates a defrost cycle.? Would it be the electonic controller, or "motherboard", as it were?

Thanks for all your help....

Tom..
Gene  
#15 Posted : Wednesday, June 1, 2011 6:36:53 PM(UTC)
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Tom,

I'm not sure which part did you call "motherboard". There is only one electronic part (besides the board which controls the dispenser) in your refrigerator which is the Adaptive Defrost Control board (#23 on the diagram). This is the only part which controls defrost cycle.

When you posted in the very first post that you replaced "control module/mother board", I assumed you were talking about this part.

Gene.
denman  
#16 Posted : Thursday, June 2, 2011 1:20:13 AM(UTC)
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Did you ever force a defrost cycle?

We sort of got sidetracked with that thermostat heater.

Originally you said "removed back cover and the evap coil is iced over."
But you never did say if the coils were iced/frosted over to the point where the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them.
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TMunsch  
#17 Posted : Thursday, June 2, 2011 5:11:25 AM(UTC)
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Gene, yes I replaced that part, the orange box with the printed circuit board in it. I was wondering, could it be bad, as everything worked fine for about a week, then I had the freeze up, and no defrost cycle?

Denham, yes the coils were completly iced over, so as not to allow any air to pass. I had already disassembled everything, so didn't try to force defrost. Think I will purchase damper, and put everything back together and try it again.

Once again, thanks for you guys help so far, we'll get this thing fixed one way or another.... :-)

T,
denman  
#18 Posted : Thursday, June 2, 2011 6:00:07 AM(UTC)
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Since you have it apart why not check out the defrost parts in the freezer.

The heating element should be around 20 ohms.

The defrost thermostat should be 0 ohms when frozen.
Hold it's face on an ice cube to freeze it it the coils are clear of ice.
Note: If it is deformed/bulged replace it even if it does measure OK.
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TMunsch  
#19 Posted : Friday, June 17, 2011 7:26:16 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Tom,

I'm not sure which part did you call "motherboard". There is only one electronic part (besides the board which controls the dispenser) in your refrigerator which is the Adaptive Defrost Control board (#23 on the diagram). This is the only part which controls defrost cycle.

When you posted in the very first post that you replaced "control module/mother board", I assumed you were talking about this part.

Gene.


Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Since you have it apart why not check out the defrost parts in the freezer.

The heating element should be around 20 ohms.

The defrost thermostat should be 0 ohms when frozen.
Hold it's face on an ice cube to freeze it it the coils are clear of ice.
Note: If it is deformed/bulged replace it even if it does measure OK.


Okay, it appears that the new ADC IV was bad. I got another one under warranty and replaced it. Also, this one came with an instruction sheet that said to delete the "fast freeze" sensor, which was attached to the temp. probe for the fresh food side. Just as you had mentioned previously Gene. I did not have this function on the control panel, but the wiring was there for it. Must have been some of the problem with the ADC IV, as I could not force a defrost cycle either.

It also told me which set of contacts to use on the damper motor, as the new wiring harness did not have the second set of wires for that fast freeze sensor. The first ADC kit, did not have this sheet, much to my dismay. I changed the defrost heater element, thermometer and damper motor. All seems to be working fine now, we'll see how it goes.

Soooo.....thanks guys (Denham and Gene) for your help, this forum is great, and now I understand how the system is supposed to work. You guys are an invaluable resource. You saved me a ton of money in repair costs, and the prices here are much cheaper than Sears......thanks again.

Tom
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