Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/25/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
|
Hi Expert,
One month ago, the refrigerator was not cold but it was continuously working without stopping and there were some ice frozen inside the freezer, i noticed that the ice had blocked the tunnel between freezer and refrigerator. i had manually cleaned the ice from freezer completely inside out. Then it works fine. However, the ice is coming back again.:mad: Now I know it does has problem for its defrosting system. I am wondering which part is failure and causing this problem.
Best Regards,
Charles
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: charles_zhang  Hi Expert,
One month ago, the refrigerator was not cold but it was continuously working without stopping and there were some ice frozen inside the freezer, i noticed that the ice had blocked the tunnel between freezer and refrigerator. i had manually cleaned the ice from freezer completely inside out. Then it works fine. However, the ice is coming back again.:mad: Now I know it does has problem for its defrosting system. I am wondering which part is failure and causing this problem.
Best Regards,
Charles Charles, There are 3 components involved in the defrost cycle circuit. The heater Part number: AP3997341
The thermostat Part number: AP3108445
These components are attached to the evaporator coil, in the freezer compartment, behind the metal back wall, and can be tested for a closed circuit with a multimeter. The ADC board Part number: AP3109393
is located inside the control panel of the fresh food compartment, with the cold control. Here is the test procedure for that : STEPS TO ENTER ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROL TEST MODE (IF APPLICABLE)
OPTION #1 (BI-METAL CLOSED)
STEPS
#1 - POWER OFF TO REFRIGERATOR FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS( turn control knob to Off)
#2 - THERMOSTAT OFF
#3 - POWER ON TO REFRIGERATOR (REPEAT STEPS 1 & 2 TWO MORE TIMES)turn the control knob to on and off ENTER TEST MODE
IN 3 - 8 SECONDS, CONTROL WILL TURN ON DEFROST HEATER. DEFROST HEATER WILL TURN ON FOR 21 MINUTES OR UNTIL BI-METAL OPENS. TO TERMINATE TEST EARLY, REMOVE
POWER FROM REFRIGERATOR.
NOTE: TRY OPTION #1 BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL. ALWAYS CHECK CONNECTIONS BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL.
HELPFUL HINT: UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, A RELAY TURNS OFF THE COMPRESSOR AND TURNS ON THE DEFROST TIMER. LISTEN FOR THE RELAY TO CLICK. IF RELAY CLICKS
ONCE UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, CHECK FOR DEFROST HEAT. IF RELAY CLICKS TWICE, CHECK FOR BI-METAL OPEN. IF BI-METAL IS BY-PASSED FOR TESTING (IF APPLICABLE), DO NOT OVERHEAT EVAPORATOR AREA.Good Luck,
:) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/25/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
|
Thanks Joe/APP team for the reply and instruction! However, the following instruction is too brief for me, would you please include more details and explanation for testing result determination? "Here is the test procedure for that : STEPS TO ENTER ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROL TEST MODE (IF APPLICABLE)
OPTION #1 (BI-METAL CLOSED)
STEPS
#1 - POWER OFF TO REFRIGERATOR FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS( turn control knob to Off)
#2 - THERMOSTAT OFF
#3 - POWER ON TO REFRIGERATOR (REPEAT STEPS 1 & 2 TWO MORE TIMES)turn the control knob to on and off ENTER TEST MODE
IN 3 - 8 SECONDS, CONTROL WILL TURN ON DEFROST HEATER. DEFROST HEATER WILL TURN ON FOR 21 MINUTES OR UNTIL BI-METAL OPENS. TO TERMINATE TEST EARLY, REMOVE
POWER FROM REFRIGERATOR.
NOTE: TRY OPTION #1 BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL. ALWAYS CHECK CONNECTIONS BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL.
HELPFUL HINT: UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, A RELAY TURNS OFF THE COMPRESSOR AND TURNS ON THE DEFROST TIMER. LISTEN FOR THE RELAY TO CLICK. IF RELAY CLICKS
ONCE UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, CHECK FOR DEFROST HEAT. IF RELAY CLICKS TWICE, CHECK FOR BI-METAL OPEN. IF BI-METAL IS BY-PASSED FOR TESTING (IF APPLICABLE), DO NOT OVERHEAT EVAPORATOR AREA. "
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: charles_zhang Thanks Joe/APP team for the reply and instruction! However, the following instruction is too brief for me, would you please include more details and explanation for testing result determination? "Here is the test procedure for that : STEPS TO ENTER ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROL TEST MODE (IF APPLICABLE)
OPTION #1 (BI-METAL CLOSED)
STEPS
#1 - POWER OFF TO REFRIGERATOR FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS( turn control knob to Off)
#2 - THERMOSTAT OFF
#3 - POWER ON TO REFRIGERATOR (REPEAT STEPS 1 & 2 TWO MORE TIMES)turn the control knob to on and off ENTER TEST MODE
IN 3 - 8 SECONDS, CONTROL WILL TURN ON DEFROST HEATER. DEFROST HEATER WILL TURN ON FOR 21 MINUTES OR UNTIL BI-METAL OPENS. TO TERMINATE TEST EARLY, REMOVE
POWER FROM REFRIGERATOR.
NOTE: TRY OPTION #1 BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL. ALWAYS CHECK CONNECTIONS BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL.
HELPFUL HINT: UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, A RELAY TURNS OFF THE COMPRESSOR AND TURNS ON THE DEFROST TIMER. LISTEN FOR THE RELAY TO CLICK. IF RELAY CLICKS
ONCE UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, CHECK FOR DEFROST HEAT. IF RELAY CLICKS TWICE, CHECK FOR BI-METAL OPEN. IF BI-METAL IS BY-PASSED FOR TESTING (IF APPLICABLE), DO NOT OVERHEAT EVAPORATOR AREA. " Charles, Let's try it like this, Turn the temperature control knob to "Off", and wait 30 to 60 seconds. Turn the control knob : ON - Off -ON - OFF - ON as fast as possible(within a few seconds). Everything should shut off in a few seconds and the defrost heater should start to heat. See helpful hint above : if the compressor starts and runs, it should shut down, if the ADC board is operating properly. :) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/25/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
|
Hi experts,
Thanks for your previous helps to fix my Whirlpool fridge problem. After installing your part, everything works fine.
It is the washer problem this time, I did a load of laundry yesterday afternoon in my Whirlpool LHW0050 front loading washer and the door is still locked and won't let me get my clothes out. I have tried every options that i can think of, including power off/on for 10 minutes, set it to rinse and spin. The door is still locked. I tried setting it to rinse and spin, but it never lets water in. I tried setting it just to spin and it sounds like it is draining, but isn't spinning. (I tried spin yesterday and it drained and then maybe spun. Then the done light blinked rather than glowed and it still wouldn't let me in.) I tried setting it to wash, but it won't let water in. I thought maybe it wasn't level, but it is level. I tried letting the water out of the lint trap, but it doesn't seem to have helped.
Thanks Whirlpool giving me these many troubles! And I really appreciate your help to resolve them!
Charles
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: charles_zhang Hi experts,
Thanks for your previous helps to fix my Whirlpool fridge problem. After installing your part, everything works fine.
It is the washer problem this time, I did a load of laundry yesterday afternoon in my Whirlpool LHW0050 front loading washer and the door is still locked and won't let me get my clothes out. I have tried every options that i can think of, including power off/on for 10 minutes, set it to rinse and spin. The door is still locked. I tried setting it to rinse and spin, but it never lets water in. I tried setting it just to spin and it sounds like it is draining, but isn't spinning. (I tried spin yesterday and it drained and then maybe spun. Then the done light blinked rather than glowed and it still wouldn't let me in.) I tried setting it to wash, but it won't let water in. I thought maybe it wasn't level, but it is level. I tried letting the water out of the lint trap, but it doesn't seem to have helped.
Thanks Whirlpool giving me these many troubles! And I really appreciate your help to resolve them!
Charles Charles, At this point, sounds like you most likely have a control board issue. There is a pretty elaborate test procedure to varify that, or test the components and control. When you removed the filter and drained the water, did you also see the tech data sheet and diagram inside the washer, That has the programming and test procedures for operating the unit in a test mode. Good Luck, :) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/25/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
|
All test mode procedures have been gone thru. it seems working fine, but can neither go into the regular mode, nor open the door. BTW, the test mode is listed at chapter 6-2 in manual posted from the link below (due to the larger size, i can't attach the pdf here). Please kindly review it and let me know if any further checking required. https://secured.whirlpoo...9b84/$FILE/WPWASHER1.pdf Thanks again, Charles
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: charles_zhang All test mode procedures have been gone thru. it seems working fine, but can neither go into the regular mode, nor open the door. BTW, the test mode is listed at chapter 6-2 in manual posted from the link below (due to the larger size, i can't attach the pdf here). Please kindly review it and let me know if any further checking required. https://secured.whirlpoo...9b84/$FILE/WPWASHER1.pdf Thanks again, Charles Charles, Sounds good, glad you were able to find a service manual. It was too large for me to attach and send to you, as well. As I understand it all the cycle indicator lights operated properly as did all the components except the door lock, correct ? Part number: AP4330422
So, you will have to force the door open, remove the top of the washer and replace the assembly, Make sure you unplug the power cord first. :) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/25/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
|
Thanks for the reply!
I have another question before forcing to open the door lock: In the service manual, test #1 should include checking door lock switch, and machine automatically going into Test #2 after passing testing #1. Is that indicating the door lock switch working ok?
Charles
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: charles_zhang Thanks for the reply!
I have another question before forcing to open the door lock: In the service manual, test #1 should include checking door lock switch, and machine automatically going into Test #2 after passing testing #1. Is that indicating the door lock switch working ok?
Charles When you started the test mode, did the pre wash light(top LED light) go out, or did it stay on after a few minutes ? What the test indicates is when the light goes out, is all the volatges and circuitry is correct to the door lock, water level switch, and thermistor. If the "unlock circuit" has an issue, you won't know it. if there is a problem, the switch is stuck, the wax motor is stuck or bad, you won't know, until you try to open the door after the test. :) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
