Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/17/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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Hello, I've been trying to diagnose what could be wrong with our oven by reading up on the forum here and I got a lot of good information. Just to be sure though I would like to run this by to see what everyone thinks. The broiler/clock/timer and relays all seem to work just fine. When on bake, the oven warms slightly, but only from the broiler element. The bake element remains cold. I still have continuity on the bake element and it appears fine as well as the wires coming to it (at least the last 3 inches look very good). When I turn on bake, I don't see any jump in voltage, even though I can hear the relay click. So the bake element does not appear to be getting any power. What would be my next trouble shooting steps? Does the oven have any type of reset or internal fuse for the elements? Or is this going to be a control board issue? If it is a control board issue, could someone link the board for me, I see two items it could potentially be, I am thinking: Part Details - FRIGIDAIRE Panel, control , black, part number: AP2127517? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/17/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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Thanks for the reply and correct part ID for the control board.
To rule out the control board, would it be worth putting the volt meter at E7 and E3 to see what the voltage is across there when the bake cycle is turned on? Should I read 120VAC or 240VAC out of there?
If I do get a voltage out of there, then I am guessing the issue is in the wire? (If I could be so lucky) Or could it still be the board?
I just want to try and trouble shoot all I can before ordering the part.
Thanks again, I appreciate it.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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E 7 (bake element) to E3 ( Neutral chassis ground) will not really tell you anything. If the DLB relay closes you will always see 120 volts as you will be reading the L2 side.
The test points you want are E7 (bake element) to L2. You should see 240 volts when the unit is trying to turn on the bake element. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/17/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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I just wanted to follow up and thank you for your help. I ordered the board Monday, it arrived the next day (on regular shipping no less!) and I swapped it out last night. Everything appears to be working as is it should now with that new control board.
It was certainly gratifying to be able to repair the oven myself and save a nice chunk of change in the process.
Thank you again for the links to the correct part and the wiring diagram, both were very helpful.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/12/2011(UTC) Posts: 1
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I had this problem a year ago (both elements worked in top oven but only broil element worked in the lower of the dual ovens). I swapped elements around but the problem was still the bottom element bottom oven.
So I called the repairman. He replaced the relay board (Part #AP2127301) for the lower oven, and it worked again. Yippee.
But now a year later, I have the exact same problem. Lower element on lower oven is not working (Frigidaire you have got to be kidding)!
However this time I decided to take a look at the relay board myself, to at least save the expense of the repairman. I looked closely at the board and thought I saw a cold solder joint on relay K4. But just to be safe I touched up all the connections on all the relays with flux and a soldering iron.
Works perfectly again !!
Please if you try this, disconnect the power first. In fact if I had to tell you that, then just call somebody.
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