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tracy1  
#151 Posted : Thursday, September 18, 2008 5:23:13 PM(UTC)
tracy1

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Tracy,

Did you see frost built-up in the freezer?

Gene.

no it did no. Besides the last two days everything was "back to normal" and i can feel cold air came out from the front "opening" ( i wonder what 'would be the right the name of this part). Then today, when i came home the refrigerator is getting warm again...what could it be the problem here?
thanks
CoreyD  
#152 Posted : Thursday, September 18, 2008 5:26:01 PM(UTC)
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Gene,
Thanks once again for the help. One more dumb question.

I am looking at the plastic housing that holds the overload and relay on the side of the compressor and am not certain how to remove it from the compressor. Does the whole assembly just pull off? If so, in what direction? I just don't want to break anything!

Thanks,
Corey
CoreyD  
#153 Posted : Thursday, September 18, 2008 5:39:32 PM(UTC)
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Never mind Gene, Figured it out!

Thanks!
Gene  
#154 Posted : Friday, September 19, 2008 5:14:43 PM(UTC)
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Tracy,

Does the fan in the freezer run properly?

If it does then can you feel cold air coming into the fresh food compartment?

Here are the break down diagrams for the GE refrigerator Model PTS25SBMARBS

Gene.
lancer  
#155 Posted : Wednesday, September 24, 2008 7:51:52 PM(UTC)
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Hi Gene,

I followed your guide to isolate the cause of the problem I have which is as per the title of this thread Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.

I have a Whirlpool, GB22DKXGW00.

I located the defrost timer under the freezer. Turned the shaft CW until it clicked. After the 10-15 min waiting period I could not hear any sizzling noise. Neither in the freezer, nor in the vecinity of the defrost timer. My daughter checked for the noise as well and she also could not hear anything.

I then removed the panel and checked the continuity across the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. I found continuity for both which means they should be OK. While melting the ice formed behind the panel, I could even see when the thermostat cycling open.

So it the thermostat and heater are OK, and according to the lack of sizzling noise, the timer should also be OK. That would mean all items are working but I still have ice formed and a warm refrigerator.

I am not quite clear what would generate that sizzling sound. In a way I would think that no sound means something is wrong with the timer...

Would you please let me know what could be the problem. I removed the ice and the refrigerator will work for a while, however, I'm sure if I don't correct what needs to be corrected it will stop cooling again.

Thank you.

Dan
Gene  
#156 Posted : Thursday, September 25, 2008 11:06:31 AM(UTC)
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Hi Dan,

Did you remove wires from the defrost heater prior to check it for continuity?

The sizzling sound comes from defrosted water dripping onto the hot defrost heater.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool refrigerator Model GB22DKXGW00

Gene.
lancer  
#157 Posted : Thursday, September 25, 2008 12:59:56 PM(UTC)
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Gene,

I disconnected both the heater element and the thermocouple. These two items are installed in series so a first disconnection was between them two, then I disconnected the other wire of each. In total I disconnected in three points. Therefore, when I checked the continuity, each of these two parts were fully disconnected.

Gene, with your explanation about the source of the sizzling sound, I think the failed part is the defrost timer. As I mentioned, I could not hear anything close to a sizzling noise. That means there's no watter dripping because there's no heat generated.

Before concluding that the defrost timer is not working properly, I was/still am somehow confused by this part of the procedure:

"5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced." So if I can (hear the nosie) the problem is the defrost timer? It seems to me it's the other way around (if I can not hear the noise then the problem is the defrost timer). Am I missuderstanding something?

Would you please clarify this for me.

Many thanks,

Dan
Gene  
#158 Posted : Thursday, September 25, 2008 2:35:17 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: lancer Go to Quoted Post
...So if I can (hear the nosie) the problem is the defrost timer? It seems to me it's the other way around (if I can not hear the noise then the problem is the defrost timer)...


Dan,

The defrost timer is just a switch, operated by a motor. There are two pairs of contacts, one of them provides power to the compressor and another one - to the heating circuit.

If the motor is bad, it's causing the compressor contacts to get stuck, then it will never switch to the defrost cycle. When you manually turn the shaft that means you manually switched the defrost "on", and sizzling sound proves that the defrost circuit is fine. In your case it looks like the defrost pair of contacts in the defrost timer is bad and the correction is to replace the defrost timer. Also I would recommend to check wires to the defrost timer.

- The part number for the defrost timer is AP98191

Gene.
P.S. You can check the defrost timer for continuity according to the Wiring diagram.
mhf115  
#159 Posted : Thursday, October 2, 2008 10:31:10 AM(UTC)
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Gene,

Thanks for all the good info thus far: here is my situation.

Frigidaire Top Freezer model.

I had the ice build up on the coils in my freezer compartment. I manually defrosted everything (hairdryer) and put everything back together. Same problem arose in about 2 weeks with a warm fridge compartment. (more ice on the coils).

I am looking at the three parts (heater element, defrost timer, and thermostat). I ohm tested the heater element and got infinity (switching the probes around if that mattered).

I did not run any ohm tests on the thermostat as I am not sure where to connect the probes to (should I cut and strip the wire and then reconnect?

Here's the kicker; my defrost timer is one of the electronic ones you mentioned. I read somewhere that on my model (frigidaire FRT21H7ASB2) you need to toggle the light switch 5 times within 7 seconds and it should manually put the refrigerator into defrost mode. It does not do this and continues to run when I toggle the light switch.

The fridge does actually shut off occasionally (is this defrost mode? if so is the timer ok?) If it is defrost mode, I am looking for a glow from my heating element when the fridge is off, but there is no glow, the heating element is not turning on (obviously because of my problem).

This would lead me to believe the thermostat needs to be replaced; however, not being able to manually put my fridge into defrost mode has me concerned it might be the electronic timer. Everything else seems to point to the fact that the timer is working. If you could give me any advice as to which parts to order or further tests to run, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks so much.

Mark
Gene  
#160 Posted : Friday, October 3, 2008 11:36:30 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: mhf115 Go to Quoted Post
...I ohm tested the heater element and got infinity (switching the probes around if that mattered)...


Hi Mark.

The defrost heater is bad. No doubts about it. I would recommend to replace the defrost thermostat too because the part is inexpensive and will make the repair more reliable.

- The part number for the defrost heater is AP2150162

- The part number for the defrost thermostat is AP2150133

Gene.
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