BBC,

Here's a couple of checks to make,

Check and make sure you have 120 VAC at the junction box on the lower frame, behind the lower kick plate / access panel.

You'll need to access the control board and control panel, and other components.

visually inspect the thermal fuse, and control board, if you have a multi meter, check the fuse for a closed circuit,

Part number: AP3115186

BBC,

Great,
Will keep an eye out for your post.

:) :) :)

Further I am thinking this a is thermal cutoff type breaker (as you probably said:D ) and trying to discern the identity of it. I am guessing by the number on the side it is(TF 098C) a 98 degree celc. temp rated.

So the question remains, is the basic open or closed circuit test valid. I apologize as the way you worded what to check for was unclear to my interpretation. I read another post where the guy said his meter went to 1.5 ( analoge assuming). So recalling, they close down from infinited in descending. His was ok, so it would have remained at high number i guess if not. Same as "1" on my digital one.... Sorry so long just trying to get it...:)

Further, I think I am on target. I am also guessing I dont need to run it without the breaker in line as something caused it to overheat. Could be just a cumulative time bomb DESiGNED by Whirpool/sears.. I am pretty sure. I'll be that was the damn problem with my last board. Too bad I was not here for that one. It was a gas range before and thats 2WICE you guys bailed me out..!!I cant tell you guys how helpful you have been.

Thanks a bunch Joe....!!!

So now I am gonna give back a little. The repairs went :) well but I have a few notes of advice to offer...

1. When dealling with a disassembled dishwasher, DONT screw the door opening lever in prior to putting on the inside wall panel (water side). BECAUSE, when you let it spring/slam shut, just as you are figuring out that the handle mounts underneath the inside plastic panel (nice test), the metal mechanism will go in too far locking the door closed creating a puzzle box with no entry:eek: ..

Second, if you are a crafty one and try to replace the temperature breaker yourself, DONT SOLDER IT. Its temperature sensitive... DUH. Actually I did not make that mistake thanks to the electronics shop owner... It comes with 2 aluminum sleeves for crimping. At any rate, the 10$ part (available here)may be worth the order if you can wait....:)

It works great so thanks again. What really disturbs me is that I have no doubt in my mind that this is what was wrong with my last model, and this is by design. So essentially the auto parts war of the 70s is reborn by WHIRLPOOL themselves. AND I bought a dishwasher FOR NOTHING last time....:( But not again. Thanks/.

Hello all,

Hope all is well with everyone. Seems my problems are not so easily resolved. The thermal fuse has blown 3 times now since I resolved the problem at the time of the last post here. So the issue seems to be, what is causing the thermal fuse to blow?

(1) I dont think there are any dwelling/house electrical issues contributing. I am getting about 118volts A/C at the outlet. One note is that it is an outlet on the same house breaker with other outlets in line. I believe the vacuum cleaner may even be run from time to time in this circuit. Was not thinking that was related though, as this is a "thermal" fuse.

(2) I have been using the "sani-rinse" which I believe heats the water pretty good in an extended rinse cylce. I am going to try to stop using that cycle and see if it helps. But really, shouldn't I be able to use it? So is it a programming problem on the main board chip??

Possible solutions: I was thinking maybe slightly insulate the thermal fuse to give some buffer. Or even get a fuse with a higher temp. This one is 90 Celcius, which I believe converts to 210 degrees F, or right below boiling. So perhaps get the next one up? Seems like while it would allow for too much heat potentially, it would still shut it down prior to total meltdown?!?

Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Joe?

Thanks in advance.