Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/31/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
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I received no answer from my 12/31 post and we would like to have an oven again.
The timer being replaced is WB19X51269 and the replacement is WB19X10006.
The issue: The "Revised Insallation Instructions" "Current Timer" pin-outs don't match the "New Replacement Timer" pin-outs.
The old timer has 4 Red wires in one corner (Are these L-1?), 4 White wires in another corner (Are these Output 1?) and 1 Orange wire in the third corner (Output 2?). According to the schematic, the Red wires come from Line, Terminal A on the Oven Switch, Meat Thermometer Xfrmr and Oven Lamp. The White wires run to a Switch, the Meat Thermometer Xfrmr, Line Neutral and Terminal E on the Oven Switch. The Orange wire runs to the Fan Switch.
I gather from articles I have seen on the net that the new plastic timer requires a chassis ground. Do I assume a wire should be run from the "Neutral" terminal to to nearby ground screw in the oven body. (This assumption scares me a bit since I associate "neutral" with the white wire in a 220 line and "ground" with a green wire. Please clarify!
Finally, life would be easier if I could get the plastic locking handle end off. How without breaking it? Thanks.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/17/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Thougt you might be interested; just installed one of these in a GE model JKP07G wall mount. There is no real wiring diagram with the new switch but I did find the original, buried inside the oven. With the help of my multimeter i did figure it out - the white wires both go to #5 (as was mentioned in the instructions), the two reds go to #1 and the Orange goes to #2. The 90 deg. connectors, on the original wiring, did not allow use of the spade terminals on the short extension wires, so I soldered them together and shrink wrapped 'em.
In this litigious society you'd think they would include a wiring diagram with the new switch.
ANyway, I figured it out, it works and momma's happy
Hope this helps
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/17/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2
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oh, one thing I omitted. remove the locking handle end by sliding a small screwdriver under the little metal tab behind it, this unlocks the end and you can pull it off.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/31/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Originally Posted by: nynhoj  oh, one thing I omitted. remove the locking handle end by sliding a small screwdriver under the little metal tab behind it, this unlocks the end and you can pull it off. Thanks for your help. I too figured the darn thing out after much irritation. For others who follow us, it is simple. The timer is really two timers. L1 [ Terminal 1](red), Output 1 (Orange)[Terminal 2] and Neutral [Terminal 5] (White). If used, the second timer would be L2 [Termial 4](black), Output 2 [Terminal 3](?)and Neutral [Terminal 5](White). The problem was in my original implementation, the second timer relay contact was not installed and L2 (Terminal 4) was used as a tie point for the white wires. WRONG but presumably easier for assembly. Since the white wires are neutral and since neutral is grounded tio the frame and since the analog timer had a metal frame, no harm no foul. However, the digital timer is plastic so the whites are floating ungrounded. Out in the net there is some talk about a ground terminal being needed. That is unnecessary but would work. If one puts the Reds on L1 and the Whites on L2 and runs a jumper from L2 to Neutral. Not recommended! My solution - fire the industrial engineer that fouled it up in the first place and boycott people who sell parts without adequate (or worse yet, incorrect) instructions.
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