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ld888  
#1061 Posted : Friday, October 22, 2010 7:50:15 PM(UTC)
ld888

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The refrigerator side is warn, while the freeze side is cooling. There is ice build up in the back of the freezer and on the evaporator coils. The bottom part of the evaporator seems to defrost but the rest are cover with ice. I defrosted it manually and the ice build up again after 2 days.

I wonder which part of the defrost system failed and how I can replace with defrost heater, defrost Thermostat or defrost timer.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Govna  
#1062 Posted : Tuesday, October 26, 2010 4:00:36 PM(UTC)
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ello govna Gene-o (or anybody), perhaps you could assist me. I have a kenmore top mount fridge, model 106.74259402. MY problem started with excessive frost in the freezer. we defrosted it and it came back, and caused the fridge to be too warm. i found excessive frost again and began to pull everything apart and found ice was blocking the veent to the fridge. i defrosted it again and it came back. now it seems to be defrosting ok, but the fridge is too warm and temp seems to be fluctuating between 40 and 50 degrees. i put a thermometer in the freezer to see what that was reading a few days ago and left it there for about a day. It was around 20-30 degrees. I just looked today and now it is at 0degrees, but im not sure what the fridge is ( only one thermometer)

This is what i have found so far:

the defrost heater seems to be working ok. i have tested it and seen it workin. ( is it suppose to get cherry red?)

The damper seems ok. I could see it move when i had it apart and defrosted. i can also feel cold air coming down.

the bi-metal swith seems ok. It had somewhere in the kiloohms when i measured it cold ( it was measuring several thousand maybe tens of thousand. i cant remember. is that ok?) and open when warm. i assume it is working due to the behavior of the defrost system.

the switch for the door works.

icemaker works fine.

the seal seems ok.



From everything I have read i am assume it is in the defrost system, but where. I think it is either the thermostat pn 2210491 or the adaptive defrost control. My best guess was the thermostat where it seems to be more with temp than actual defrosting. I ordered the thermostat yesterday. Did I just waste my very few hard earned dollars? Please, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Taki5  
#1063 Posted : Wednesday, October 27, 2010 4:56:56 AM(UTC)
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Gene,

Thanks for your accurate diagnosis! I purchased a control board, swapped it out, and its been a week and no frost build up anymore.

I really appreciate your assistance.

Thanks,

Pete
Shadelady  
#1064 Posted : Wednesday, October 27, 2010 12:31:14 PM(UTC)
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i am having the same problem as many others on here. my fans run, my freezer ices over and my fridge is kinda warm. i get a little air flow but not much. i wanted to do the testing at the back of the unit- continuity anf whatnot, however i cannot find my model listed. so i thought i'd go through the freezer, and i cannot figure out how to get the ice maker out so i can pull the back panel off. my model is kenmore 596.79279990

you have my thanks in advance.
TOSK  
#1065 Posted : Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:21:08 AM(UTC)
TOSK

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Hi, I’m new here,

My 10 year old Kenmore fridge started running warm. I did a little research and removed the back inside freezer panel. Solid frost top to bottom. I replaced the therm and def timer. Heater still did not come on.

I was getting ready to replace the bar today but noticed the clear tubing on the new bar does not completely cover the connection to the fuse line like the current one does.

Before I hook this up I was wondering if I should be worrying about this?

[FONT=&quot]thanks

UserPostedImage


[/FONT]
Gene  
#1066 Posted : Wednesday, November 10, 2010 12:05:02 PM(UTC)
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It's better to insulate it.

Gene.
TOSK  
#1067 Posted : Wednesday, November 10, 2010 12:54:02 PM(UTC)
TOSK

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or/or/and
Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
It's better to insulate it.

Gene.


Thanks for the reply. Thats what I was thinking, I've never fixed a defrost prob before. Is the insulation primarily to limit corrosion at the connection or/and is this the potential for an electrical short?
Gene  
#1068 Posted : Wednesday, November 10, 2010 4:49:55 PM(UTC)
Gene

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There are snow and ice around which are very good conductors and can cause an electrical short.

Gene.
TOSK  
#1069 Posted : Sunday, November 14, 2010 7:34:52 AM(UTC)
TOSK

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
There are snow and ice around which are very good conductors and can cause an electrical short.

Gene.


F%$#*#$@%@

Sorry, had to let that one out :mad:

[FONT=&quot]OK, so today I get ready to put in the new defrost heater bar. I clipped the wires and rotate timer to compressor off and I get NO voltage. I’ve already replaced the timer and therm. Now I’m lost. [/FONT]Any suggestions?
Gene  
#1070 Posted : Monday, November 15, 2010 3:50:40 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: TOSK Go to Quoted Post
F%$#*#$@%@

Sorry, had to let that one out :mad:

[FONT=&quot]OK, so today I get ready to put in the new defrost heater bar. I clipped the wires and rotate timer to compressor off and I get NO voltage. I’ve already replaced the timer and therm. Now I’m lost. [/FONT]Any suggestions?


What was the temperature in the freezer at that time? The defrost thermostat must be really frozen in order to close the circuit to the heater.

Gene.
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