Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Just started looking at it. Dryer does not start. Do not have a schematic. Hand down dryer.
With the door closed or the door switch pressed we get a ticking sound or other sounds from the timer. Can't find the id for the wires on the Press to Start button (FSP 3398094) so calling the wiring Blue 1 and Blue 2 and PinkBlack we get resistance.
normal button pressed
PB-B1 2.3 1.0
PB-B2 1.8 1.0
B1-B2 4.2 0.0...not infinity.
Next step to check the thermal fuse? And then?
Thanks. Always hated the electrical system stuff in ground school...load shedding buses blah, blah, blah, if this does that what does that thing do...? So now I get to deal with with the appliances and old cars and not so old cars. Maybe I should have tried to pay more attention eh?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: sanmigmike  Just started looking at it. Dryer does not start. Do not have a schematic. Hand down dryer.
With the door closed or the door switch pressed we get a ticking sound or other sounds from the timer. Can't find the id for the wires on the Press to Start button (FSP 3398094) so calling the wiring Blue 1 and Blue 2 and PinkBlack we get resistance.
normal button pressed
PB-B1 2.3 1.0
PB-B2 1.8 1.0
B1-B2 4.2 0.0...not infinity.
Next step to check the thermal fuse? And then?
Thanks. Always hated the electrical system stuff in ground school...load shedding buses blah, blah, blah, if this does that what does that thing do...? So now I get to deal with with the appliances and old cars and not so old cars. Maybe I should have tried to pay more attention eh? Mike, It's not that elaborate, Are you sure you have 220 VAC at the dryer terminal block ? Yes, your next move will be the thermal fuse, down on the blower housing, it should be a closed circuit across the terminals with the wires off. You could also bypass the fuse to test the unit(ONLY). Part number: AP3132867
If your fuse is open, you need to start looking for other possible failed or weak parts, First check the exhaust venting system for kinks or clogs. Then the regulating thermostat, and hi limit thermostat on the heater, all thermostats should be a closed circuit at room temperature. I'm pretty sure you'll find an open thermal fuse, and a clogged vent,or the machine was overloaded or something like that. Good Luck, :cool: :cool: :cool:
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
The thermal fuse needs to be checked with the wires off? Okay so I'll go back and do that again. The other ones, wire off too? And I'll check for 220, I seem to recall a posting on that.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
I think I have the right part...infinite resistance when the wires are pulled off. But it has on it G4AP0500 TF091C HDM1 3392519? Would be nice if it is simple so now the question is why it opened hmmh. Dryer vent hose doesn't look too bad but there is a bit more lint in the cabinet that I expected.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: sanmigmike I think I have the right part...infinite resistance when the wires are pulled off. But it has on it G4AP0500 TF091C HDM1 3392519? Would be nice if it is simple so now the question is why it opened hmmh. Dryer vent hose doesn't look too bad but there is a bit more lint in the cabinet that I expected. Mike, the fuse is temperature sensitive, approximately 250 to 300 degrees. It can fail on its own, but is usually due to a overheat problem. If the venting is clear, Vacuum out all the lint , check the blower for clog,lint build up, and test the start with the new fuse, or jump fuse. You'll be OK from there. :cool: :cool: :cool:
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Seems to be working now. Long term I'm going to move the 220 plug off the floor so the vent can have a straight run. Go to a solid tube rather than that foil wire coil stuff. Did clean out the cabinet and and checked the limit switch next to the temp fuse and it was working okay. So replacing the temp fuse fixed it.
Thank you very much!
Michael
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: sanmigmike Seems to be working now. Long term I'm going to move the 220 plug off the floor so the vent can have a straight run. Go to a solid tube rather than that foil wire coil stuff. Did clean out the cabinet and and checked the limit switch next to the temp fuse and it was working okay. So replacing the temp fuse fixed it.
Thank you very much!
Michael Michael, You're very welcome !!, Glad to hear you're up and running... Great Job. :cool: :cool: :cool:
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
