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Originally Posted by: osbock  ...At room temp, the bimetal is open, and I can't figure out how to remove it from the plug (that has several other wires crimped in...) to test in my chest freezer downstairs. I suppose I could cut the wires and splice back in with solder, but it's a bit tight in the freezer...
Also, the defrost heater reads zero, and I would think there should be some resistance. Is this normal? You can avoid cutting off the defrost thermostat by turning the refrigerator ON till it cools down enough to close the bi-metal. If you did the resistance test properly then the defrost heater is definitely bad. - The defrost heater Part number: AP2988898
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Thanks Gene,
The Bimetal tested out OK when cold. Can you clue me in as to how to replace the defrost heater? It's behind the evaporator, and I'm worried about bending
pipes. Does the whole thing swing out just enough to slip the heater behind?
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Thanks again!
Last question (I hope)....What does it indicate to you that the freezer temp keeps on cycling..... gets hot (temp rises to 100 degrees) and then gets cold (but not less than 20 degrees). Seems like the control board to me!
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Hi Gene, I should add that I tested the thermostat after the frige had been unplugged offf and defrosted for a couple of days. Not sure if that makes the difference, but just wanted to add that to the info. Also the defrost thermostat didnt look popped out or burnt or anything. Let me know, thanks again in advance, Grandeson
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: osbock Thanks Gene,
The Bimetal tested out OK when cold. Can you clue me in as to how to replace the defrost heater? It's behind the evaporator, and I'm worried about bending
pipes. Does the whole thing swing out just enough to slip the heater behind? Sorry for the delay. Such defrost heaters are pretty reliable. So before you replace it I would double check its resistance. Make sure the meter is set on the lowest possible resistance scale and the heater wires are disconnected. Normal resistance reading should be between 22 to 27 Ohms. Unfortunately I do not have a step by step instructions for this model. Look for a clips holding the heater. Possible you have to remove some screws holding the heat shield. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: juanrodman Thanks again!
Last question (I hope)....What does it indicate to you that the freezer temp keeps on cycling..... gets hot (temp rises to 100 degrees) and then gets cold (but not less than 20 degrees). Seems like the control board to me! Sorry for the delay. It's hard to say why it's doing that without testing the pressure in the sealed system. Hopefully the new control board and the condenser fan motor will fix it. Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: grandeson ...I tested the thermostat after the frige had been unplugged offf and defrosted for a couple of days... It does not make any sense. The warm thermostat will always give you no resistance result unless it's shorted. Replace the thermostat and hopefully it will solve the problem. Gene.
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Gene-
Just to share the final outcome and say Thanks again.....based on another post I was suspicious that the lights (4 of them) were not going out (I was not sure the switch was working). Sure enough when I closed the door and pulled back the seal, there was a baseball game going on in the fridge. Besides the major heat being generated all the time, the switch needs to be off to bring cold air from the freezer. It's now working fine and I suspect that the power outage was a coincidence that allowed the fridge to warm up just enough to reveal the problem that was already brewing.
Juan
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Gene
Hi, just new to the forum as I was troubleshooting my Refrigerator.
Kenmore Elite 596.70003002 - or - Manufacturer # P1321305WG
20 cu ft bottom mount Ref.
Warm fresh food comp
Cold Freezer.
First Findings: Evap fan not working (had a spare), installed it, worked fine for 2 days.
Now: Same thing, Evap fan not working.
EDIT: Moved to seperate thread...sorry if I hijacked....
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Re: Kenmore 363.50232000:
In troubleshooting defroster problem, I measured 15 Megaohms across the GE AP2071523 defrost heater. Is this out of spec? What is the range for a good element?
Thanks.
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