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Originally Posted by: juanrodman  I have a PSI23NCPA WW and see no defrost timer or defrost thermostat in the break down diagrams. Appears that I have one of those "refrigerators operated by electronic devices". The freezer is at about 35 degrees but the refrigerator is at 135 degrees....starting after a power outage. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Are the fans inside the freezer and on the back of the refrigerator and the compressor running? Your refrigerator is operated by the main control board (on the back of the refrigerator) and we have to figure out what exactly is wrong with it. Definitely it has nothing to do with the defrost system failure. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric PSI23NCPAWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Both the condenser and evaporator fans are working (pretty sure that the condenser fan was not running for awhile after power outage). The compressor seems to be operating although feels very hot (is that normal?). Looked at evaporator and it only had frost on lower one-third...freezer temp seems to fluctuate from cold to hot (maybe keeps cycling into defrost mode?)
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Originally Posted by: juanrodman Both the condenser and evaporator fans are working (pretty sure that the condenser fan was not running for awhile after power outage). The compressor seems to be operating although feels very hot (is that normal?). Looked at evaporator and it only had frost on lower one-third...freezer temp seems to fluctuate from cold to hot (maybe keeps cycling into defrost mode?) I would suspect the condenser fan motor. I would recommend to replace it together with the main control board. - The condenser fan motor Part number: AP4265957
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Thanks very much! I'm hoping it's not a bad compressor. Is it normal for them to feel very hot?
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First, Thank you for replying Gene, I really appreciate it I tested both the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat with an Ohmmeter. FIrst time with an Ohmmeter, but Ive used similar type devices. For the defrost heater, the continuity read 30, and for the defrost thermostat, the continuity read around 55. So according to what I've been reading, that would suggest that the pieces are in working order, (since they are neither testing "OL" or zero) So, is the electronic control board a definite fix? Just hate to spend and not need it, thanks. . So in advance, I apologize. Thanks again, hope to hear more from you guys soon, Grandeson
PS, why cant one move the cursor around when typing a reply in this forum? really weird
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Originally Posted by: grandeson ... For the defrost heater, the continuity read 30, and for the defrost thermostat, the continuity read around 55... While the reading for the heater looks good, the defrost thermostat definitely is bad. The normal reading for the defrost thermostat resistance suppose to be very close to zero. So I would replace the thermostat first. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: juanrodman Thanks very much! I'm hoping it's not a bad compressor. Is it normal for them to feel very hot? You are welcome. The compressor normally should be hot but not burning your fingers. Gene.
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Searching on-line I found how to test the compressor relay and motor. I'm certain these techniques are familiar to you. My question is "will the results of these tests be conclusive relative to the health of the compressor"? Thanks again!
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Hate to crosspost here, but no reply on my other thread, and I've definitely got a defrost problem (though it led to the refrigerator being too cold, and not too warm) At room temp, the bimetal is open, and I can't figure out how to remove it from the plug (that has several other wires crimped in...) to test in my chest freezer downstairs. I suppose I could cut the wires and splice back in with solder, but it's a bit tight in the freezer... Also, the defrost heater reads zero, and I would think there should be some resistance. Is this normal? It's a Kitchenaid KSRS25ILSS02
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Originally Posted by: juanrodman Searching on-line I found how to test the compressor relay and motor. I'm certain these techniques are familiar to you. My question is "will the results of these tests be conclusive relative to the health of the compressor"? Thanks again! You posted previously: Quote:...The compressor seems to be operating although feels very hot... So if it's operating but is hot on touch, that means the cooling fan is not working properly. If the compressor is hot but not operating (no vibration and or any sound) then it's a different story. In order to diagnose it more reliably the pressure in the sealed system has to be measured on both sides and such job has to be done by a certified tech. You have to choose what to do: to go by such remote diagnosis or to call a pro. Be advised that any parts ordered from Appliance Parts Pros can be returned even if it was installed. Gene.
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