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Gene  
#1031 Posted : Tuesday, October 5, 2010 6:03:06 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: DrewBat Go to Quoted Post
turns out it was the heater . Now does the place here that sells parts have the connectors to splice the wires & make them water proof ?


Yes. You can order the wire nuts and use a child plasticine as a hermetic.

- The wire nuts Part number: AP3440671
Part number: AP3440671



Gene.
DrewBat  
#1032 Posted : Tuesday, October 5, 2010 6:20:14 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Yes. You can order the wire nuts and use a child plasticine as a hermetic.

- The wire nuts Part number: AP3440671
Part number: AP3440671


Gene.



Thanx for the help Gene Good to have people like you in the world to help out :)

But Playdough really for the water proofing ?:eek:
Taki5  
#1033 Posted : Thursday, October 7, 2010 11:52:03 AM(UTC)
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Hi Gene,

same problem (warm refrigerator, very cold freezer, with frost on back wall of freezer), Maytag MBR2256KES. Can you confirm part numbers for the defrost components?

Thanks,

Pete
Gene  
#1034 Posted : Thursday, October 7, 2010 12:54:18 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: DrewBat Go to Quoted Post
Thanx for the help Gene Good to have people like you in the world to help out :)

But Playdough really for the water proofing ?:eek:


You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.
Gene  
#1035 Posted : Thursday, October 7, 2010 1:00:16 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: Taki5 Go to Quoted Post
Hi Gene,

same problem (warm refrigerator, very cold freezer, with frost on back wall of freezer), Maytag MBR2256KES. Can you confirm part numbers for the defrost components?

Thanks,

Pete


Hi Pete,

The control board (#5 on the diagram) controls the defrost cycle among all other functions.

- The control board Part number: AP4366538
Part number: AP4366538



- The defrost heater Part number: AP4076588
Taki5  
#1036 Posted : Friday, October 8, 2010 4:42:51 AM(UTC)
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Wow, thanks Gene! I was also able to find the diagostic service manual online for my refrigerator, and was able to force a defrost. that helped to melt some of the built up ice and got the refrigerator cold again...i guess that means the heating element is working.

Can you also tell me, i couldnt locate the defrost thermostat on the breakdown diagram (its listed as #31, but its not marked on the diagram)...unless i missed it...

thanks again, you have been very helpful.
grandeson  
#1037 Posted : Sunday, October 10, 2010 11:47:41 AM(UTC)
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Howdy, I tried to do as much work as possible so I dont waste your time. Fridge warm, freezer appears same. Noticed some frost on back wall of freezer. Took off panel and saw it was frosted up. I have an AMANA ABB2222FEW unit. I am pretty sure there is no defrost timer for this unit, as it is controlled by the control board, at least thats what my research I think tells me. So I'm guessing it could be one of 3 things, 1) the control board, 2) the evaporator heater, or 3) the thermostat. the thermostat doesnt look odd, no button popped out. the majority of frosting did seem like it was centered around the evaporator heating unit (that black sort of tube) and I have no idea of its the control board. Just hoping you may be able to steer me in the right direction. Im thinking going with the evaporator heater first, then thermostat, then the control board. Also the copper tubing the thermostat was on was iced up, and not just frost. Thanks, and if you can give me the exact part numbers for each piece Id greatly appreciate it, thanks

As my endless research continues. I tried putting the fridge in manual defrost mode, by holding down door switch and pressing down on temp controls and "fd" came up, i guess instead of "df"? anyway, i then kept feeling the defrost heater for almost 5 minutes and it didnt get hot or even warm, i this a sign that the defrost heater is what needs to be replaced?

Again please list the part # for my item if you can. Thanks so much, Grandeson,,.......
juanrodman  
#1038 Posted : Monday, October 11, 2010 8:17:04 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator &#8211; the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag &#8211; it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one &#8211; a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the &#8220;search&#8221; button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step&#8230;

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it&#8217;s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it&#8217;s frozen because if it&#8217;s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.

I have a PSI23NCPA WW and see no defrost timer or defrost thermostat in the break down diagrams. Appears that I have one of those "refrigerators operated by electronic devices". The freezer is at about 35 degrees but the refrigerator is at 135 degrees....starting after a power outage. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Gene  
#1039 Posted : Monday, October 11, 2010 4:52:30 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: Taki5 Go to Quoted Post
...i couldnt locate the defrost thermostat on the breakdown diagram (its listed as #31, but its not marked on the diagram)...


Maytag diagrams are definitely not the best one.

I do not think there is something wrong with the thermostat because it did work when you forced the defrost manually.

More likely the control board is the culprit.

Gene.
Gene  
#1040 Posted : Monday, October 11, 2010 5:06:06 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Grandeson,

The best and the most efficient way for you is to buy a simple ohmmeter and check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity. If there is nothing wrong, replace the control board.

- The defrost thermostat (it's clipped on top of the evaporator) Part number: AP4078076
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