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Light not turning off
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Model: LFD22860ST Brand: -other- Age: 1 - 5 years
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dgdl441  
#11 Posted : Thursday, September 23, 2010 5:13:53 AM(UTC)
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magician59  
#12 Posted : Thursday, September 23, 2010 5:40:12 AM(UTC)
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You have a bad switch. While you're getting the replacement switch, it would be a good idea to remove the light bulb.
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etsierka  
#13 Posted : Thursday, September 23, 2010 5:00:34 PM(UTC)
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The light bulbs have been out for about a year now. How do you know the switch is bad when they are clearly working to turn the fan on and off? Also, I opened the switch up and can see that mechanically, everything appears to be working well. Metal to metal contact, parts are moving as they should, springs are fine, etc. Can you tell me if the main pcb assy has anything to do with the operation of the lights? Thanks
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atlsud  
#14 Posted : Saturday, September 25, 2010 12:46:38 PM(UTC)
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Any progress with the new switches or new board? I'm thinking there are items in the back of the fridge that I can't see that need to be eaten!:D
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magician59  
#15 Posted : Sunday, September 26, 2010 1:04:09 PM(UTC)
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Sorry for the long delay. I tried printing out the wiring schematic for your appliance and it just wasn't clear. All I could see is that the switch controls multiple items. It could be that you have a short in your light circuit that causes a direct path for electricity to the socket. You can check this with a continuity check. Unplug the machine. check for continuity between the center of the light socket and the hot leg of the cord (There should be continuity only when the door switch is closed.). Now check for continuity between the side of the socket and the neutral pin on the plug. (there should be continuity )
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atlsud  
#16 Posted : Friday, October 1, 2010 9:35:50 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: magician59 Go to Quoted Post
Sorry for the long delay. I tried printing out the wiring schematic for your appliance and it just wasn't clear. All I could see is that the switch controls multiple items. It could be that you have a short in your light circuit that causes a direct path for electricity to the socket. You can check this with a continuity check. Unplug the machine. check for continuity between the center of the light socket and the hot leg of the cord (There should be continuity only when the door switch is closed.). Now check for continuity between the side of the socket and the neutral pin on the plug. (there should be continuity )



Thank you magician. I am awaiting my delivery of my new multi meter. I will post back my findings.

Tom
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atlsud  
#17 Posted : Monday, October 4, 2010 5:11:35 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: magician59 Go to Quoted Post
Unplug the machine. check for continuity between the center of the light socket and the hot leg of the cord (There should be continuity only when the door switch is closed.). Now check for continuity between the side of the socket and the neutral pin on the plug. (there should be continuity )


Magician59,

I received my meter over the weekend and am ready to start trouble shooting.

In your comment you say to check for continuity on the center of the socket and the hot leg. How do I determine which is the hot and neutral leg?

Sorry, but I have never used a meter before. I have read the "Check for continuity" thread several times as well.

Tom
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magician59  
#18 Posted : Monday, October 4, 2010 12:09:02 PM(UTC)
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The hot blade of the power cord is the narrowest one. The neutral one is wider. What you want to see is continuity between the center of the light socket, and the hot blade of the cord, when the door is open, but not when it is closed. The continuity between the side of the socket (where the bulb screws into the socket) and the neutral blade should always be there, no matter whether the dor's open or closed. Also, you DON'T want to see continuity between the socket side and the metal chassis of the refrigerator.
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gski96  
#19 Posted : Monday, November 22, 2010 8:06:10 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: etsierka Go to Quoted Post
I have the exact same problem with my Kenmore Elite refrigerator. I think the switch is good because it turns the fan on and off and I opened up the switch, and mechanically, it is working fine. I was told that the likely problem is the main printed circuit board on the back of the refrigerator, but I want to get a second opinion before I spend $90 or more on that new part.


I have the same problem with kenmore elite Model # 795.77573600

I replaced the light assembly and all the plastic casings and the problem has continued.

The switch(s) will activate the fan when pushed in but will not turn off lights.

Would replacing the switches be the next step? Is there a way to test them or should I just get them?
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magician59  
#20 Posted : Monday, November 22, 2010 8:26:51 AM(UTC)
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The best way to test a switch is to check for continuity. Unplug the refrigerator and very gently pry the switch out. If your switch is dual-acting, one set of contacts will close to operate the light, while the other set opens to stop the fan. If there are two separate switches, one is normally closed, and opens to stop the fan; while the other is normaooy open, to turn on the light.

Opening the door reverses the condition of each switch; so that the normally open (light) switch closes to turn on the light.
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