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thanks Gene,ill replace that part and get back with results,thanks again for this great service
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
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Another idea, somthing that I do once in a while is to unplugg the refer, and cut and strip the wires on the defrost thermostat and connect them together (the 2 wires that are part of the machine, not the thermostat) tape the ends. now plug the power cord in, turn the defrost timer to defrost, and see if heater comes on. If it does, your defrost thermostat is bad, if your heater does not come on, your heater is bad. Maybe this can help those that do not have a meter, or know how to use one.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/19/2008(UTC)
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 I presume you mean to bypass this part - it was clipped to the refrigeration coil. and seemed to be in between the heating element and the rest of the circuit. ________ DIGITAL VAPORIZER
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I am still a little fuzzy how the freezer knows when to defrost/stop defrosting. It seems that the defrost timer closes the circuit to begin defrosting once every x hours. At that point the thermostat (above) provides a second check to see if the freezer temperature is below a certain point (35F?). If it is, then the fridge needs defrosting and the circuit closes, sending power to the heating element which heats up and starts defrosting the cooling coil. So how does it know when to stop defrosting? Is it as simple as the thermostat temperature rising above the set point? And then, because the thermostat is clipped to the top of the cooling coil, and the heating element is at the bottom of the heating element, the thermostat should not turn off until all of the coil is properly defrosted? In essence the thermostat just opens and closes at a specific temperature (35F?) - My question is essentially how do I test continuity on the thermostat. Can i just cool it below 35F, or how does the thermostat sense ice. ________ FORD MODEL U
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The thermostat is in a closed state when below a certain temp, and opens up when the evap has reached around 70 degrees during the defrost cycle. So the thermostat must be cold enough to test it in a closed position, and room temp to test in open position
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Rank: Member
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So I got the meter and the heating element tests fine (about 20 Ohms) the thermostat shows continuity when it is cold, open circuit when it warms up. The only thing I can think of now is that for some reason there is no current going to the heating element when it is in defrost mode. What is the correct way to test this - I don't know if there is any reason why the wiring would go bad, or if I can check if there is a bad contact somewhere... ________ MEDICAL MARIJUANA DISPENSARIES NORTHRIDGE
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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tyang54,
Does the fan in the freezer work?
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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yes, fan is definitely working. problem is that the heating element isn't heating in the defrost cycle. I've tested both the old and the new element and they register about 20 ohms resistance. I presume that is ok for a working element. In defrost cycle the heating element is still cool to the touch, I presume that's bad. Is there a safe way to test if there is current running to the defrost element when in defrost mode? How much power should be going to the defrost coil, and is it AC or DC? I was going to unplug the heating element and complete the circuit using my volt meter to see if any juice was flowing. I have an open solder joint right before the new defrost thermostat that I can tap to take the defrost thermostat out of the equation. Thanks again to all of you guys for your help ________ FORD FN PLATFORM SPECIFICATIONS
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
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Cut the defrost thermistat out and connect the 2 wires together and see if the heater comes on, just leave enough wire so you can reconnect it after testing.
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