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Gene  
#921 Posted : Saturday, July 10, 2010 6:50:20 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: h0j0 Go to Quoted Post
Gene - thanks for your advice. It was the evaporator motor...she is running cold as ever now!


You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.
mitchh218  
#922 Posted : Monday, July 12, 2010 6:28:20 AM(UTC)
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Gene,
The information that you supply in these threads is invaluable. Thank you. I have read through the threads because my GE GBS22HCRAWW the freezer freezes up and the refrigerator is 76'. I have read through the threads and tried many of the suggests that you and others have posted. I have virtually taken the refrigerator completely apart trying to find why the freezer is freezing up and the refrigerator is warm.
In one of the threads, it suggesting measuring the resistance of the defrost heater and the thermister. Because they are hard wired in without a quick disconnect, I was not able to confirm the resistance of the two items. Next I read a thread about suggesting the shorting of the line pin (J11) with the defrost pin (J9) on the connector (blue/grey) at the bottom of the motherboard. I did this and left is shorted for 1 min then checked in the freezer to confirm that the heating element melted the ice, and it did. With this said, I am assuming that both the heating element and the thermistor are working correctly. Is that a safe assumption?

Next, I removed the damper assembly to check the airflow and that the damper is open. I can see the evaporator motor assembly and feel air flow coming up from the freezer (fan running). I used an instant read thermometer to measure the temp coming from the opening, 13'F. The temp in at the top of the refrigerator is 75'F. I also read the thread and measured the resistance on the J1 connector of the motherboard (pin 1-5, 3-5, 4-5) and the resistance came very close to the conversion to the temperatures feeding the motherboard. So, I am confused why the temp coming in from the bottom of the refrigerator is so cold, and the top of the refrigerator is so warm. Is the evaporator motor variable speed or single speed? The reason for the question is that the airflow coming up from the freezer is minimal, even though the fan is running. (I actually cut my finger by the blade while it was running) Both the freezer and the refrigerator doors seal tight, they are both hard to open.
Before I replace the motherboard, I wanted to be as sure as possible that it controls the evaporator fan speed.
CyndiAMA  
#923 Posted : Monday, July 12, 2010 7:52:47 AM(UTC)
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I had this same problem, all it turned out to be was the plug undernwith the coils was clogged. We cleaned that out and our fridge is working great now. I hope this helps!!!
mitchh218  
#924 Posted : Tuesday, July 13, 2010 6:52:29 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: CyndiAMA Go to Quoted Post
I had this same problem, all it turned out to be was the plug undernwith the coils was clogged. We cleaned that out and our fridge is working great now. I hope this helps!!!


thank you. That is making the ref colder, but still the freezer is freezing up.
bare  
#925 Posted : Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:50:31 PM(UTC)
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Gibson Freezer md. FV21M2WZ defrosted last Wednesday. It is at 15 Degrees and will not shut off any idea?:) mail bar5e@yahoo.com

Charles
Ericonline  
#926 Posted : Thursday, July 15, 2010 6:33:39 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Open the freezer door and check if the fan inside is working. Check if there is frost on the rear panel in the freezer.

Gene.


Thanks Gene, I checked the fan and it is working fine...in fact, it runs non-stop. It never shuts off. And there is little or no frost on the rear panel.

I also did another test which leads me to think it may be a faulty diffuser/thermistor. I unpluged the whole appliance for 48 hours. I then plugged it back in and left it overnight. In the morning the freezer was cold but the fridge was still warm. I can feel no air what-so-ever coming from the vents in the fridge. I check the diffuser and it was closed tight.

Am I on the right track? I ordered a diffuser and a thermistor just in case.
saldurante  
#927 Posted : Thursday, July 15, 2010 8:18:31 AM(UTC)
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As it turned out, it was the defrost thermostat/heater assembly.
Originally, I thought it was the timer because it seemed to behave erratically, with a defrost cycle varying from 30 minutes to sixty minutes. After changing the timer, I still had the problem and the new timer was inconsistent in the duration of the defrost cycle just as the original was.
I changed the defrost thermostat/heater assembly and all is now well.
(Of course, if I had checked for continuity across the heaters as Gene recommends, I would have found the problem sooner.)
Olives  
#928 Posted : Monday, July 19, 2010 4:16:29 AM(UTC)
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Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer refrigerator, 14 years old, freezer is fine but refrigerator is warm. Door gaskets are tight all around.

Removed back freezer panel and discovered a frozen wall. Defrosted with hairdryer and found bimetal switch was not attached to the coil. I secured it at the point where the aluminum tubing transitions to copper. Thought all was well for a few days but....

Now I see that the frost is solidly building up again in the area under the fan and near the upper right corner refrigerator vent, despite the bimetal still being in place. Using an infrared thermometer, and at the end of a defrost cycle, the bimetal measures about 50 degrees, the temperature it's supposed to turn off the defrost cycle at. I also see, using a "killowatt" device, that the defrost cycle is running for only four or five minutes. It's clear using that device when the timer enters defrost mode, and that it's using 700 watts for a few minutes and then 0 watts until it enters compressor mode again.

Should I reposition the bimetal to an area where the frost builds up, replace it with one that has a higher temperature rating or look into something else?

I really need to get this back in reliable service soon. Thanks in advance for help.
kcofoid  
#929 Posted : Monday, July 19, 2010 11:27:47 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator &#8211; the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag &#8211; it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one &#8211; a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the &#8220;search&#8221; button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step&#8230;

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it&#8217;s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it&#8217;s frozen because if it&#8217;s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.

I have a GE GTS22KCPARBB whose freezer is cold, but the refrig varies in temp from 34 degrees to 54 degrees. I have read your guide instructions. Do these symptoms indicate that it is the defrost controller ( easiest one to get to ) or the defrost heater and/or sensors. I am having a difficult time seeing where these are from the diagram to use an ohm meter on to diagnose.
Gene  
#930 Posted : Monday, July 19, 2010 2:05:09 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: kcofoid Go to Quoted Post
I have a GE GTS22KCPARBB whose freezer is cold, but the refrig varies in temp from 34 degrees to 54 degrees. I have read your guide instructions. Do these symptoms indicate that it is the defrost controller ( easiest one to get to ) or the defrost heater and/or sensors. I am having a difficult time seeing where these are from the diagram to use an ohm meter on to diagnose.


Have you seen a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer?

If your answer is Yes, then there is a problem with the defrost system.

The defrost timer is shown as #257 on the diagram. The defrost heater and the defrost thermostat are shown as #618 & #620 on the diagram.

You may want to start the diagnosis from the defrost heater because this is most common problem with GE refrigerators. Just test it for continuity.

The thermostat shown as #627 on the diagram is not a real defrost thermostat. It is a safety thermostat to prevent the freezer section from overheating during defrost. This part has to be checked for continuity as well.


If there is no frost build up then there is a different problem.


- The defrost heater Part number: AP2639820
Part number: AP2639820



- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP3884319
Part number: AP3884319



- The defrost safety thermostat Part number: AP3884317
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