http://www.appliancepartspros.c...amp;&model_id=504377

Could it be this part?

Here is how I would do it. Be careful. I would remove the 2 wires going to that flame sensor. I would get the dryer going on cotton cycle. I would touch them 2 wires together and see if that glow bar comes on. I would wait about 3 minutes and then seperate them wires to shut down the ignitor. The gas should ignite then and you can observe it for a moment holding 2 hot wires in your hand and wondering how you are gonna drop one of them and disconnect the dryer without shorting something out and getting blown to kingdom come. It is way better to have the wife or a witness to be around just so they can unplug the dryer for you. When I check one of these dudes in my shop on my appliance lift, I have the cord real close so when the test is over I just shut down the dryer. Trying to do it at home around a bunch of piled up dirty laundry in a hot utility room all alone may tend to be a problem. Be careful. If the appliance regulator is faulty you will not get any flame You say you have replaced the coils and paid the gas bill. So the regulator is what I am leaning towards. If the regulator is ok and the assembly works with this test then you have either a faulty thermstat like you pictured or it is in the timer itself. As far as the new fangled tank, have you got a grill tank you can hook up to the dryer to prove your theory? Just a thought.

Their are 2 small wires and 2 large wires. The smaller wires have nothing to do with the heat other than they change the value of the klixon by heating it up slightly to make it shut down faster. So the 2 large wires should always have continuity. Even when brand new it is hard to get any kind of ohm reading out of the 2 small terminals. Like I said the small wires power up a tiny heater inside the thermodisk so that it will shut down faster for permanent press or delicate. If you think that thermostat is bad jumper the 2 large terminals and see if that bad boy fires up. Let me ask you this: How many wires go into the gas valve assembly at the quick connection? 2 or 3?

Check the gas burner orifice for any clog.

Check if there is gas coming to the gas safety valve.

If these are not an issues then the gas safety valve is a failure suspect.

Gene.

Gene: Which part is the Gas Saftey valve and how do I check to see if gas is coming into it?

Sublime: If I run a cycle with the Thermal Cutout bybassed should the flame ignite? Or does it actually need that part to start the flame? I am still waiting on that part to come in but should it work without it? (glows but no fmae)