I replaced the blower motor a few days ago.
That fixed my problem.

Here is a run down from memory of what you need to do:
Remember - I might have missed a step or two but this should get you there!
Order the blower motor Gene suggested. The price was the lowest I could find, but feel free to check for youself.
Unplug the dryer
Take out 4 screws in the top of the instrument console
Lean it forward
Take out 2 screws in the back corners that are revealed by leaning the top forward
lift and slide the top cover forward to unlatch from the front
Lift the front of the top cover to reveal 2 more screws securing the front cover
Remove 4 screws you can see when you open the dryer door
Take out the lint screen and set it aside
Lean the front cover forward and unplug the door switch
Lift off and remove the front cover and door and set aside (it sets on 2 pins onm the bottom)
Remove the 2 screws that hold the shroud for the lint screen and remove the metal cover
Remove 4 screws holding the cover that holds the front of the drum
Remove the belt from around the spring loaded tensioner down on the lower left of the dryer
Lift off and remove the front drum cover and set aside
Remove drum and belt and set aside
Now you can pretty much see what you need to do
remove the 2 screws holding the plastic blower exhaust down
remove 2 screws holding blower motor down
unplug 2 spade terminals, 1 sensor, and the blower motor wiring harness connector.
Remove screws to get to the squirrel cage
Unbolt the squirrel cage REVERSE THREADED NUT and remove
3 more screws now exposed, hold that plastic to the motor assy
take off the 2 spring loaded clips to finally remove the motor from the cradle
Reverse the steps to reinstall

I took the opportunity to clean, blow out, vacuum etc etc all of the guts at this time since it is all right there for you.

Don't do like I did and forget to reconnect the door switch!!! I had to repeat a few steps of my disassembly!!
Then it was BEER TIME in my dry pants!

Yes,
As I said, the blower motor replacement fixed the problem.
It has been working fine ever since.
I took the old motor apart. You can easily do this by taking out the four screws holding the halves together. All of the guts are slip fit so it comes right apart.
On the circuit board under the stator - I suspect a flakey transistor, possibly failing when hot.
It was lableled Q1,
the part number on the component is A733
It is a low frequency amplifier, PNP Epitaxial Silicon Transistor.
I am ordering one (it only costs 30 cents or so)
I think replacing this cheap component will fix my original motor.

I checked local electronics shops. If you get desperate I have seen them on ******** but you probably have to get 10 or so but they seemed cheap compared to the motor. Look for A733
Hope this helps - post back with your results!

Thanks for the info George... I picked up a 512-KSA733YBU (cost a nickel)
I kind of guessed at the hFE value of 120 based on a "Y" on my original part. (my part had a second line with a "YC307" so I took a shot)
Also I noticed a tiny hairline crack (using a magnifier) in the transistor, strengthening by belief that this is the culprit.
The part removes relatively easy with a soldering iron and some Soder-Wick since it is only soldered on the bottom side and the holes don't flow through.
All of the other components checked out good, as did all 12 coils.
SA1 (the horseshoe emitter/detector pair that triggers through openings in the rotor) was the only other component I didn't know how to test and I didn't see a visible part number on it.
Let me know any updates! You may be running on borrowed time!

It tests good.... but it also works fine - for a while!

If you lay this transistor on its back with the part number and flat side facing you and leads towards you - the leads are like this from left to right:
Emitter - Collector - Base
Since this is a silicon PNP transistor you can check like this:

Also, check the resistance from C to E
If the transistor is good, you should get an open circuit reading from collector to emitter (both ways).

I have a Peak Atlas DCA55 component tester but you may not be so fortunate!

I used freeze mist and heat gun, the readings moved around (lower with heat higher with cold) but still checked reasonably well.
Bottom line -- mmmmmmmmmm-- unsure.