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Gabe,
Your refrigerator is different with the one owned by Tom. His is a regular bottom mount refrigerator while yours is what they called "French doors" refrigerator.
Sounds like the problem is a bad control board, but before we'll proceed further I would like to verify the model number of the refrigerator. It is very important if there are (or there are not) any number(s) after "S" in the model number. Also there is a MFG number on the name plate as well and I need you to post it.
Gene.
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Gene - there are no numbers after the "S" in the model number. I can't find any manufacturer number. I'll try to post a photo of the name plate - maybe it's one of the other unidentified numbers. I looked at the service manual for Tom's refrigerator, and used the instructions to force a defrost, and it defrosted fine. Does that mean that it's the board that's bad? I wish I'd read this thread before calling the repair guy out - I've sure learned alot. 
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Originally Posted by: sktomw  I just read through the service manual and saw that I could test things using the control panel, so I'm going to do that when I get home from work (after I reconnect the thermostat) and see what happens. I'll report back. All the tests ran fine (I think), except when I run the defrost thermostat & defrost circuit test (Service test 1) I can only get a S (Short) or off (no display). The service manual seems to indicate I should also get an O (Open) when I cycle the Refrigerator Up button. It looks like it almost gives an O but then immediately cycles to S. Does this indicate a problem with the circuit or the thermostat, or can't I tell which it is from this?
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Originally Posted by: sktomw All the tests ran fine (I think), except when I run the defrost thermostat & defrost circuit test (Service test 1) I can only get a S (Short) or off (no display). The service manual seems to indicate I should also get an O (Open) when I cycle the Refrigerator Up button. It looks like it almost gives an O but then immediately cycles to S. Does this indicate a problem with the circuit or the thermostat, or can't I tell which it is from this? Looks like the problem is a bad control board. In addition to this test results I would redo it with the evaporator cover removed to observe defrost heat. Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: Gabe D. Gene - there are no numbers after the "S" in the model number. I can't find any manufacturer number. I'll try to post a photo of the name plate - maybe it's one of the other unidentified numbers.
I looked at the service manual for Tom's refrigerator, and used the instructions to force a defrost, and it defrosted fine. Does that mean that it's the board that's bad? I wish I'd read this thread before calling the repair guy out - I've sure learned alot.
Gabe, If it did defrost fine, that means there is nothing wrong with the heater, thermostat and wire harness. Looks like the problem is a bad control board which you mentioned in the first post. I have no idea why Maytag called this part "Frost kit" for this model. It doesn't make any sense, but we have to take it as is.:confused: - The control board (frost kit) Part number: AP4009654
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Originally Posted by: Gene Looks like the problem is a bad control board. In addition to this test results I would redo it with the evaporator cover removed to observe defrost heat. Thanks Gene - I'll go ahead and do that next.
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Originally Posted by: rixemailfl OK... Took panel off of inside of freezer & totally defrosted the coils...
The defrost timer did cycle back on after I turned it to the defrost cycle... I'm assuming that means the timer is OK.
Also assuming that means my heater is bad... WHIRLPOOL ET22DKXFN00 OK... Now I've got water in the bottom of my fridge and the fridge is not cool again... I never got around to doing any parts replacements last time... Ice built up in coils behind back panel in freezer. Was still making ice. Just not cold in lower portion... The heater shows about 33 ohms... The defrost thermostat showed continuity (I think) when frozen and now shows open (I'm certain) when warmer... Defrost timer cycles the fridge off and back on when I trip it manually... Should I be looking at a damper or something along that line?
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Originally Posted by: rixemailfl WHIRLPOOL ET22DKXFN00
OK... Now I've got water in the bottom of my fridge and the fridge is not cool again... I never got around to doing any parts replacements last time...
Ice built up in coils behind back panel in freezer. Was still making ice. Just not cold in lower portion...
The heater shows about 33 ohms... The defrost thermostat showed continuity (I think) when frozen and now shows open (I'm certain) when warmer... Defrost timer cycles the fridge off and back on when I trip it manually...
Should I be looking at a damper or something along that line? Did you observe heat when you turned the defrost timer on "defrost"? If your answer is "Yes", then the defrost timer most likely is the culprit. - The defrost timer Part number: AP3110896
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Did you observe heat when you turned the defrost timer on "defrost"? If your answer is "Yes", then the defrost timer most likely is the culprit. - The defrost timer Part number: AP3110896
Gene. Thanks Gene!!! So, even though the timer still kicks the motors back on after I manually advance it, the timer could still be bad? I'll check it later for heat from the defroster. Can I do that by just feeling it by hand? Don't wanna get fried... :-O
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Originally Posted by: rixemailfl ...So, even though the timer still kicks the motors back on after I manually advance it, the timer could still be bad?... Are you sure it kicks the defrost on? Gene.
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