Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/6/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
Originally Posted by: lostinspace  I sincerely appreciate this post for the OL repair issue but i'm having a bit of a problem with one of the steps..... after removing the agitator cap with a small screwdriver i look inside and see a big clear plastic piece.... is this the center screw you are talking about removing and if it is then how do you remove it because it is stuck good. I'm afraid I don't know about this one - when I removed the cap on mine the screw was pretty obvious - there was no clear plastic piece.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/2/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Yes, like Yorbadad says, the screw is real obvious when you remove the cover in the center of the agitator. My washer is the Kenmore Oasis but if yours is the Wirlpool Calypso I can't say for certain if that one is a little different design.
Don't be offended but I need to ask the obvious, because you never know.
Are you working on the Kenmore Oasis Washer?
Are you getting the OL error?
Did you remove the little white plastic cap in the very center of the tub at the bottom?
When you removed that cap you can't see a little screw in the center that can be removed?
If the answer to all those are "yes" then I'm stumped. Sorry.
Hopefully someone else has an answer.
Good luck.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/9/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Originally Posted by: monicamarie91b Can anyone help. I have a 2 yr old kenmore washer. It starts up then quickly says (ol) I looked in the manual and it says over load. I took all of the clothes out and ran it empty. Everytime it runs with or without clothes I have the same problem. Sears wants to charge me $70.00 just to come out and give me an estimate. Any advice? Call 1-800-659-7026. Sears is replacing the Computer Control. You will have to give them the Model number and/or serial number.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
I've taken my oasis apart as stated above. The tub is frozen solid to the shaft. I've tried WD-40, no luck yet.....Any advice. I've got a literal rust bucket :eek:
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/5/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Thank you so much. This worked like a charm. My washer would start up and spin to level out then it would fill with water. Spin a little then fill with water until the tub was full then the timer would go from 28 min down to 6 min then it would drain. I couldn't figure it out. Its not washing. I called sears and they told me that my circuit board had a defect and that they could change it out. Once the service guy came it said that everything was fine after changing out the board and that my basket was kinda stuck but he pulled it up. I told him to wait wanted to run a full wash while he was there. He kept trying to sell me their warranty saying that my tub is going to wear out and that I needed protection. I was like so you not going to fix my washer? He smiled like he knew what my problem was. He watched the washer get to 28 and then 6 min and he hit the door. Loser. So I found this thread and opened up the washer as instructed. I am a woman and was able to do it with no problem. The basket was a little hard to pry away from the tub but I got it loose. I went to home depot and got some silicone grease and phosphoric acid. I also got a wire brush. I cleaned all the corrosion off and made sure everything was smooth. Rubbed a thin layer of silicone grease on and I'm back in business. I cleaned the washer with bleach and I am now on my 3rd load. Thank you!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/19/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
thanks for this tip. i went through the motor troubleshooting steps in the service manual and it said that the control board was bad (failed giving the oL error on the agitate test, but all of the cables ohmed out in spec). i had replaced the control board last year for a different issue, so i was pretty sure that was not the problem.
my tub was very hard to remove. i found a tip on anther site that said to fill it with water and it would help. i manually filled it with hot water (to just above the top of the shaft) and let it sit a few minutes. after that, i was able to pull it off the shaft.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/22/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Originally Posted by: lostinspace I sincerely appreciate this post for the OL repair issue but i'm having a bit of a problem with one of the steps..... after removing the agitator cap with a small screwdriver i look inside and see a big clear plastic piece.... is this the center screw you are talking about removing and if it is then how do you remove it because it is stuck good. I know this is old and you have the issue long resolved by now. What you seen inside your agitator when you removed the cap is a plastic seal that keeps water or liquid detergent / softener from gettng in to where the agigator connects to the transmission. This piece just pulls straight up like pulling the stopper out of your kitchen sink. I know this will not help you, but maybe it will help another reader. :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
:( Can anyone help me. I have a Kenmore Elite Oasis Washer, blue top loader with the glass, Model # 11028087700 It starts up fine but then during the wash cycle it just adds water, spins and drains but never agitates and at around 18 minutes it jumps to 3-4 minutes then drains and spins again but the clothes are always dripping wet and an error code comes on #OL I get this error code #OL (over load) with or without clothes, either way I still have the same problem even if I just use the clean washer button only. I read all the info hear and throughout the internet. I did the test that was posted here by: tracehae, dated 01-02-2010, 10:57 AM ) by grabbing the inside top lip of the basket on both sides and pull up and if the basket raises about 1 inch then it is ok. But if it does not raise then you know there is a problem, I don’t have this problem as my basket rises up fine.
I read that I might need to have the circuit/control board replaced but thought I would see hear first if anyone has a thought of what I should do.
Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Hi Weslee, If the basket raises free then very likely the problem is a bad control board. If you will order it from APP and it would not fix the problem you can simply return the part back. - The main control board Part number: W10189967
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/21/2014(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Thanks so much. I paid a Sears guy to come out and look at my non-spinning, oL problem. He recommended a new computer board. So I got it at a local appliance shop and replaced it. Same problem. So I called the tech back up and he said it must be my suspension rods, so I bought them on amazon and replaced them. Same problem. So I googled it, found you, followed your directions and my washing machine is running like a champ.
Thanks again!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
