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hansen.gk  
#1 Posted : Monday, March 1, 2010 1:59:12 PM(UTC)
hansen.gk

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Hi there,

I've spent many interesting hours browsing through this forum - thanks much to those who have been so helpful with your replies.

I'm having a problem with my GE Profile side-by-side refrig/freezer. It seems that my problem is a common one--the temperature is fluctuating and generally is too warm--however I've run into problems when trying to apply the troubleshooting advice that has been given in response to previous posts.

First, here's what I'm seeing:
-The freezer is set at 0 deg. F but I've observed actual temps varying between 2 - 35 F.
-I have on a few occasions seen the infamous "ice stalactite" hanging from the icemaker tray, presumably caused by ice melting at higher temps and then re-freezing when the temp dips again.
-Refrigerator is set at 37 F but actual temps vary from 38 - 50 F.
-The compressor and fans seem to be running properly.
-There is a speckling of ice-spots on the back wall of the freezer.
-The model number is PSS26PSTA SS, serial number GL413131.

According to many a helpful previous post, the thing to do now is to remove the cover from the back wall of the freezer, check for frost/ice build-up on the coils, and test the various components located there. However, I've been unable to figure out how to get the cover off! There is a plastic piece toward the bottom of the back wall--a "duct extender" if I'm reading the schematic correctly--that has resisted my every effort to remove it, and the hardware from the sliding drawers that is affixed to the side walls appears to be in the way (would I need to remove all of those?) All in all it has proven to be much more difficult to remove that panel than I anticipated and I'm afraid I'll break something if I try any harder.

It seems that the culprit in cases like this is very often the control board. I removed the board and inspected it for scorch-marks - there aren't any signs of damage. Under the circumstances, would it be reasonable to order a replacement board and see if that fixes it? I'd prefer not to call a repairman if I can help it, for budgetary reasons, but I've been known to be penny-wise and pound-foolish.

Many, MANY thanks for any advice...
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Monday, March 1, 2010 4:32:45 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Remove the rear cover and check how the condenser fan works. Make sure the condenser coils are clean.

If there is nothing wrong, then the problem very likely is with the sealed system. It has 5 years warranty and you have to call GE for service.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric PSS26PSTASS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
hansen.gk  
#3 Posted : Monday, March 1, 2010 6:42:09 PM(UTC)
hansen.gk

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Hi Gene,

Thanks for your feedback. I checked the condenser - the fan is spinning smoothly, and the coil was covered in a modest amount of dust. I cleaned the coil with a shop vac but the temperature problems persist.

Out of curiosity, why do you suspect the sealed system instead of a control board or something else?

Again, thanks very much for your help..
Greg
richappy  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, March 2, 2010 3:28:03 AM(UTC)
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You probably have an intermittant problem like bad solder connections on the back of the motherboard in the back, or intermittant thermisters.
Pull the motherboard and check around the power relay solder connections on the back.
If ok, the next time it fails, check the condenser and evaporator fans for temporary failure.
Gene  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, March 3, 2010 1:27:09 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Greg,

Your refrigerator is very different with most others because it has evaporators in both compartments. There is one compressor with 3-way valve on the back, but the rest of the cooling (sealed) system is divided in two separate parts. There are separate fans and thermistors in each compartment.

The problem you described is the same for both of them and it is also intermittent (much harder to diagnose). I do not believe that all thermistors and fans have gone bad together.

Visual check for the main control board (as advised by richappy) is a good idea. If you would like, you can even replace it before calling GE, but this part becomes nonreturnable as soon as you install it.

If there is nothing wrong with the main board, then very likely there is a problem with the compressor or 3-way valve and it has to be tested with pressure gages.

Gene.
hansen.gk  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, March 3, 2010 1:38:29 PM(UTC)
hansen.gk

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Solid advice guys, thanks!

I decided to call in the cavalry on this one. The tech is coming over tomorrow. I will post the results here for the benefit of future answer-seekers... :cool:
duramaxfanatic1  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, December 28, 2010 11:20:31 PM(UTC)
duramaxfanatic1

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hey man what did it end up being?
hansen.gk  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 3:26:13 PM(UTC)
hansen.gk

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Originally Posted by: duramaxfanatic1 Go to Quoted Post
hey man what did it end up being?


Heh, I forgot to post the results...

A tech came over and ran a bunch of tests, then left a temperature data-gathering device in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks. I think he ended up replacing the temperature sensors on both sides of the unit and we haven't had a problem since. But I'll double-check the repair paperwork tonight and post any specifics I can find.
duramaxfanatic1  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 4:45:58 PM(UTC)
duramaxfanatic1

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ok thanks man let me know how much it ended up costing too
more2711  
#10 Posted : Saturday, January 1, 2011 10:23:12 AM(UTC)
more2711

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Was this repair covered under the GE warranty? How much did it end up costing you?
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