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Gene  
#721 Posted : Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50:53 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: Not_A_Appliance_Pro Go to Quoted Post
I have an Amana MOdel number ABB2522FEW, the evaporator coils keep freezing up, so I have a defrost problem. Does the system need to be froze to test the continuity on the evap heater and thermostat or can I test it thawed out? It is currently thawed out. I would like to rule out the cheaper fixes before I spend $95 on a new control board.

Thanks,
Jeff


Answered by John @ Fischers and richappy here: http://forum.appliancepartspros...zer-ok-frige-not-ok.html

Gene.
bscata6qnx  
#722 Posted : Thursday, February 4, 2010 3:39:29 PM(UTC)
bscata6qnx

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.


Gene,

I ordered the defrost thermostat for my refrigerator. When I removed the old thermostat it has one red and one white wire coming off of it. The new replacement part just has two black wires. Does it matter which way I splice the new wires back in to the unit? I'm assuming since both wires are black that it doesn't matter in which order I connect them back. Does that make sense? Thank you for your help!

Bill
bscata6qnx  
#723 Posted : Thursday, February 4, 2010 3:44:34 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: karen54 Go to Quoted Post
Its's a Kenmore Model # 59679142990


I ordered the defrost thermostat for my refrigerator. When I removed the old thermostat it has one red and one white wire coming off of it. The new replacement part just has two black wires. Does it matter which way I splice the new wires back in to the unit? I'm assuming since both wires are black that it doesn't matter in which order I connect them back. Does that make sense? Thank you for your help!
Gene  
#724 Posted : Friday, February 5, 2010 11:38:28 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: bscata6qnx Go to Quoted Post
...Does it matter which way I splice the new wires back in to the unit?...


Bill, you are absolutely right. It does not make any difference.

Gene.
bscata6qnx  
#725 Posted : Friday, February 5, 2010 1:27:17 PM(UTC)
bscata6qnx

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Good deal! It does seem to be working again. Yay!!!!! Thanks for all your help!
Gene  
#726 Posted : Sunday, February 7, 2010 6:59:42 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.
simon_y08  
#727 Posted : Monday, February 8, 2010 10:18:45 PM(UTC)
simon_y08

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.


Gene,
New refrig are using same principle but don't use defrost thermostats , timers. Cntrl bd is more complicated. You should provide more troubleshootung tips as resistance of sensors at diff temp's , monitoring voltage on heater, etc.
Gene  
#728 Posted : Tuesday, February 9, 2010 1:47:32 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: simon_y08 Go to Quoted Post
Gene,
New refrig are using same principle but don't use defrost thermostats , timers. Cntrl bd is more complicated. You should provide more troubleshootung tips as resistance of sensors at diff temp's , monitoring voltage on heater, etc.


New refrigerators using electronic device calling Adaptive Defrost Control to control the defrost cycle instead of traditional defrost timer. It can be used as a separate part or it can be integrated into more complicated electronic control. They all are different for different makes and models.

In order to force defrost cycle instead of turning defrost timer shaft, a special instructions from tech sheet or mini-manual supplied with your refrigerator must be used. Some models can not be forced in defrost at all.

For most of such refrigerators the best way to diagnose the problem is to check for continuity defrost heater and thermostat. If there is nothing wrong then the problem in most cases is an electronic control.

If you are not sure what to do, post your question on the forum with the complete model number of the refrigerator and some of the forum experts will help you.

Gene.
grod777  
#729 Posted : Tuesday, February 16, 2010 7:10:18 PM(UTC)
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[FONT=&quot]I replaced the thermostat,heater and timer. I turn the dial on the timer and the heater does not turn on. I put back the old thermostat and touched the 2 wires together and the thermostat turned on (FYI- the freezer was almost completely defrosted by the time I finished).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Is it possible that the thermostat was sensing the temp was not cold enough and not allowing the heater to go on? I can't believe I had a bad timer or thermostat (both are new). I even tried reinstalling the old timer and the heater would still not go on. Which leaves the thermostat as being the problem (but I tried the old thermostat) and the heater would still not turn on.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Does anyone have any suggestions or is my theory about the temp being too high correct?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]For now I will let it run and see if any frost builds up.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thanks.[/FONT]
Gene  
#730 Posted : Tuesday, February 16, 2010 8:19:22 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: grod777 Go to Quoted Post
[FONT=&quot]I replaced the thermostat,heater and timer. I turn the dial on the timer and the heater does not turn on. I put back the old thermostat and touched the 2 wires together and the thermostat turned on (FYI- the freezer was almost completely defrosted by the time I finished).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Is it possible that the thermostat was sensing the temp was not cold enough and not allowing the heater to go on? I can't believe I had a bad timer or thermostat (both are new). I even tried reinstalling the old timer and the heater would still not go on. Which leaves the thermostat as being the problem (but I tried the old thermostat) and the heater would still not turn on.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Does anyone have any suggestions or is my theory about the temp being too high correct?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]For now I will let it run and see if any frost builds up.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thanks.[/FONT]


The thermostat (depends on design) should be closed when its temperature is at least bellow 30°F (or colder).

Gene.
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