Rank: Member
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This unit completes all cycles, It just wont run thru a spin cycle. I ran diagnostics and it came up with a E47 code, which is board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin. It says to refer to Test 7, Which is remove door lock assembly and measure the resistance of the PTC. What is the PTC? Correction:Shorted or open. Defective door lock assembly. Reads around 1500 ohms. Defective Control board. What do you think? Where do I measure the resistance o n the door lock assembly? :confused:
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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I don't know that anyone has ever determined what PTC is, but what I think they want you to do is to measure the wax motor circuit and that is what I do when I get this situation. This circuit should always be closed, so if it is open or shorted then the door lock assembly is defective. If it is closed, which is what the resistance will show you that means the wax motor is not getting power, which is sent by the control board, so that is why you replace that board in that situation. Also check the wiring for continuity, breaks, shorts etc from the control board to the lock assembly and clean and reseat the contacts before you spend money on any parts. The tech notes should have a wiring diagram for you, but if not here is the service manual on your model which has a diagram for each Model Series. http://frigidaireservicetips.co...AffinityWasherManual.pdf
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2010(UTC)
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The wax motor contonuity is reading 1450, I assume that means the control panel is the problem. Is that correct? i tore apart the door lock assembly and the wax motor to inspect, put it back together and ran another service test and error code 41 came up.:control board thinks door is open.?I have a door lock assembly ordered already, just because of cost $45.00 related to control panel of $200.00. I will try that first. do you think it is the control panel? I will check all circuits and wires leading to control panel before I order. Front loader seem to be crap, replacement parts are expensive, only 3 years old.
Thanks for any more info.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Unforutnately you have come to the conclusion about front loaders that many (but not all) of us who repair these things have come to. I mean, whose great idea was it to put microprocessor controls in a washer? What do microprocessors hate? Moisture, heat and vibration. What do washing machines have??? Also in a front loader the axis (horizontal) is perpendicular to the force (vertical). Not a good idea.
There are some techs on various Forums on the internet who have a preference for front loaders, but it is beyond me what they are thinking.
Anyway, you have one, you spent a lot of money for it so lets see if you can get it running.
I think you are doing the right thing. It sounds like the control board is the problem but replacing the much less expensive part after checking the wiring and connections is a good thing to try. Also, make sure the pump and drain hoses are clear. I know, that does not sound related but logic and microprocessor controls don't go together here.
I hope the less expensive fix is it, and let us know how things turn out.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
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I appreciate the info, The first thing I replaced was the pump, not thinking much about the whole control panel and micro-processor. So it has a new pump $89.00 and all was clear in hose and filter. I will kepp you posted on the fix. at this point I wish i would of took the money and bought a new top-loader, but if the door switch fixes the problem. I am only out $150 which isn't to awful bad, compared to a new one.
thanks,
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
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well , the door switch fixed the problem. The continuity thru the old swith (wax motor) was 1462, and the new one was 1484. I didn't think this was gonna fix it. Because I read somewhere it's either 1500 and good, or closed and not any good. I saved alot of $$$$. I hope this thread works for someone else that is experiencing the same problem.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Well, great, glad that did it and at such a reasonable cost. Thanks also for the update, replacing the door lock assembly on front loaders seems to work a lot of times even though the diagnosis does not call for it.
Just another great momment in engineering design.
Good luck, hope it stays fixed.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 9
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Just read your posts.
I am on the road so I can"t test my washer but I seem to have the same problem the washer won't complete it's spin cycle. I do know that if I manually put it on drain/spin and open the door and close it the spin cycle will finish.
Could this be the same problem with the door switch?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Sounds very much like the switch is the problem, but you will have to change it out to be sure. See if you can do some diagnostic tests first.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 9
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Where do I find info on running diagnostics?
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