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Originally Posted by: vswolf  Ok, so we ordered in a new defrost heater, and the new one is also reading 0 ohms? I thought that meant it was bad?
Are we testing the heater wrong? He's hooking up the multimeter to both leads of the heater. I do not believe in a bad new heater. Most likely you did something wrong while measuring its resistance. The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: DeckMonkey ...I checked this morning and the temp in the Freezer is -7 F with the digital control set at +1 F... It does not look as a faulty sealed system at this time. I would suggest to replace both thermistors. They are identical and located in the air diffuser. - The thermistor Part number: AP3745265
Gene.
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I'm not sure if my problem is the same. I've read part of this thread.
Yesterday my GE Profile started making noise from the fan. I vaccumed the bottom and cleaned the fanat the bottom rear of the unit. It wa spretty dusty. it's a bottom freezer and about 5 years old.
So the noise went away but while cleaning it I noticed that the fan blades and the scacer they sit on cuold slide in and out of the fan motor about 1/4 inch. kind of loosely but it spun fine.
Hours later after a thourough cleaning the fan to the top frige has stopped blowing altogether. The freezer temp is fine and the compresser is working and cycling properly. But the frige unit is at 62 deg. F. so it's dead altogether right now. We moved stuff to another frige.
I read the thread and I don't see how fodd in front of my freezer vent could cause this problem???
Thanks,
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thanks for being here, you have helped already.
ABB2223DEW
11822325GP
worm fridge cold frezzer.
fridge is cleaned yearly top to bottom. fans running, fridge trap door opens and closes when i change temp settings. the fridge runs all the time doesnt shut off,the evaporator is pluged so this is not allowing the air to flow. dont need to tell you. problem, not defrosting.
pulled back panal, evap froze
continuity test on evaporator heater when frozen , closed.
continuity test on thermostat when frozen , closed.
i looked for the defrost timer but didnt see one in the wiring information, so what i was thinking was the bord went out on me. what do you think. any other test to be done. i am a mechanic and i hate throwing parts at it untill i fix it. thanks for your time!
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Originally Posted by: mx5drive I'm not sure if my problem is the same. I've read part of this thread.
Yesterday my GE Profile started making noise from the fan. I vaccumed the bottom and cleaned the fanat the bottom rear of the unit. It wa spretty dusty. it's a bottom freezer and about 5 years old.
So the noise went away but while cleaning it I noticed that the fan blades and the scacer they sit on cuold slide in and out of the fan motor about 1/4 inch. kind of loosely but it spun fine.
Hours later after a thourough cleaning the fan to the top frige has stopped blowing altogether. The freezer temp is fine and the compresser is working and cycling properly. But the frige unit is at 62 deg. F. so it's dead altogether right now. We moved stuff to another frige.
I read the thread and I don't see how fodd in front of my freezer vent could cause this problem???
Thanks, If I got it clear, the fan inside the freezer is not working? What is the complete model number of the refrigerator? Gene.
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Originally Posted by: djbrown ...continuity test on evaporator heater when frozen , closed.
continuity test on thermostat when frozen , closed.
i looked for the defrost timer but didnt see one in the wiring information, so what i was thinking was the bord went out on me. what do you think. any other test to be done... You are absolutely right. If the continuity test shows the defrost thermostat is fine and the defrost heater resistance is about 29 Ohms, then there is nothing left but the control board. There is no defrost timer in this model and the defrost cycle controls by the main control board (#5 on the diagram). - The control board Part number: AP4366538
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Gene, I didn't get around to replacing the thermistors. Now I have a new problem. Neither the fridge or the freezer is cooling correctly. Checked the coils at the back of the freezer and they are frost free. Vacuumed the coils under the fridge. The fan in the freezer runs continuously. I periodically hear a loud clicking and it sounds as if it is coming from the compressor. The click happens once, then about a minute or so later it clicks again. Then a few minutes later it goes through the same cycle. Sealed system problem? If so, is it worth it to fix it?? Thanks..... Originally Posted by: Gene It does not look as a faulty sealed system at this time. I would suggest to replace both thermistors. They are identical and located in the air diffuser. - The thermistor Part number: AP3745265
Gene.
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I have an Amana MOdel number ABB2522FEW, the evaporator coils keep freezing up, so I have a defrost problem. Does the system need to be froze to test the continuity on the evap heater and thermostat or can I test it thawed out? It is currently thawed out. I would like to rule out the cheaper fixes before I spend $95 on a new control board.
Thanks,
Jeff
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up date, i replaced the bord and im all back to normal. thanks for all the help and parts.
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Originally Posted by: djbrown up date, i replaced the Bord and I'm all back to normal. thanks for all the help and parts. You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it. Thank you for the feed back. Gene.
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