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vswolf  
#701 Posted : Monday, January 4, 2010 3:48:40 AM(UTC)
vswolf

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Thank you so much!!

Right now it's running great because my husband pulled the back panel off and got ice out of everywhere, including the drain which was solidly blocked. He just had 1 question:

When the fridge is going into defrost mode the heater does not appear to be turning on. When we had it all apart and advanced it into defrost mode it was cold, and now that everything is back together when it goes into defrost mode we pull the bottom drawer out of the freezer and look and we don't see any evidence of the heater being on.

Would the ice buildup in the areas you said to check cause the heater to not turn on?

Thank you again for all your help; my husband is going to check those places tonight. :)
Gene  
#702 Posted : Monday, January 4, 2010 10:38:20 AM(UTC)
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You are welcome.

The defrost heater test should show some resistance and the defrost thermostat continuity test should show closed circuit when it's bellow 30°F (the exact temperature range is written on the thermostat).

- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP4299920
Part number: AP4299920



- The defrost heater Part number: AP2988898
Part number: AP2988898



Gene.
buckeyes007  
#703 Posted : Monday, January 4, 2010 11:03:25 AM(UTC)
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Okay, i finally got the back panel off and discovered frost all over the coils. I am trying to go by the guide on the original post, but i cannot find the defrost timer. I checked the diagram and not luck. I am starting to think this refrigerator doesnt have one. Model PSC23NSTDSS.

Help,
Chris
Gene  
#704 Posted : Monday, January 4, 2010 11:23:59 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Chris,

Why do you go with your posts from one thread to another? You did open your own thread (http://forum.appliancepartspros...ot-cooling-properly.html) and this is good enough. Multiplying same questions does not do any good for you nor for other people on the forum.

Gene.
vswolf  
#705 Posted : Monday, January 4, 2010 12:04:03 PM(UTC)
vswolf

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This may be a silly question, but when you say the defrost heater should show some resistance, I want to make sure we understand that. When we tested the defrost heater with an analog multimeter it read zero.

Is that good?
Gene  
#706 Posted : Monday, January 4, 2010 12:13:19 PM(UTC)
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Quote:
...When we tested the defrost heater with an analog multimeter it read zero.

Is that good?...


0 Ohms reading means the heater is shorted. In such case it has to be replaced.

Gene.
DeckMonkey  
#707 Posted : Tuesday, January 5, 2010 5:19:01 PM(UTC)
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So I've read many of the posts in this thread and searched it for my model and haven't found an answer. I have a Kitchenaid KSRA25FKSS00. Freezer is fine. Refrigerator is not cooling. I've checked the coils and found no frost. the vents/diffusers and found no ice. I replaced the diffuser (with the slide louver to control airflow from the freezer to the fridge). This did not fix the problem. Any suggestions? Using a mirror to view the diffuser as it is installed, it appears that it is not opening.....
Gene  
#708 Posted : Tuesday, January 5, 2010 6:17:44 PM(UTC)
Gene

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What is the exact temperature in the freezer?

Make sure the condenser coils (#3 on the diagram) are clean.

If the evaporator coils still are clean with the condenser coils cleaned, then there is a problem with the sealed (cooling) system.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRA25FKSS00 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
DeckMonkey  
#709 Posted : Wednesday, January 6, 2010 8:19:42 AM(UTC)
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I checked this morning and the temp in the Freezer is -7 F with the digital control set at +1 F. I will check the condenser coils and the evap coils this evening.

If this is a problem with the sealed system, is it fixable? If so, is it worth it (financially)?
vswolf  
#710 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2010 5:35:22 AM(UTC)
vswolf

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Ok, so we ordered in a new defrost heater, and the new one is also reading 0 ohms? I thought that meant it was bad?

Are we testing the heater wrong? He's hooking up the multimeter to both leads of the heater.
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