Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 23
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I think I'll give it a shot and if I get stuck I'll call in the troops! LOL. If I
m looking at the manual right I should have taken the top of the dryer off first, which I didn't I took out the screws on the inside of the drum. Thanks for all the help!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 23
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I'm sorry if I'm driving you crazy with this dryer repair! LOL The heater assy should be here today, so I was going to start the tear down to replace that, the rear bearing kit and the felt seals, I guess I should also check the belt. My question concerns just were to start. I hope I didn't mess up by not taking off the top of the dryer and removing the vanes, I should be able to get the drum out with the vanes attached right? I have been going over the manual and it seems what I need to do is take off the access panel in order to remove the dryer belt, I'll have to also remove the front panel, but I was thinking I could leave the door attached (the less I take apart the better) this should allow me to take out the dryer drum, from what it looks like I should be able to get to everything I need to do once I do this, is this correct? thanks for any more help, I'll get this done yet!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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No problem, these are good questions.
Yes, you can leave the vanes attached
Yes, you release the belt from the rear access panel. You need to release the belt to take out the drum. Note: you will use this access panel to put the belt back on after you put the drum back in.
Yes, you can leave the door attached when you take off the front, but be careful to unhook the door switch and mark how the wires go.
Just follow the manual, take your time, get someone to help if you can and you should do ok. Remember, the drum will lift up to release it from the bearing.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 23
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I just looked up how to disconnect the switch, but I'm a bit confused, you say to release the belt from the rear access panel, are you talking about the rear of the dryer where the grounding ball and tinnerman are located? I thought I could get to it from the front by removing the front panel, this is where I have problems, sometimes it is hard to tell the area you are looking at in the photos. The other photo I have a hard time telling just which side I'm looking at is removing the hitch on page 104, where it tells you not to lose the grounding ball, I'm guessing this is the inside of the dryer after the drum has been removed?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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There is a rear access service panel on the back of the dryer. Taking it off gives you access to the idler, which is a spring loaded tensioner for the belt. Pushing on the idler releases the tension and you can take the belt off the motor pulley. If you do not do this you cannot remove the drum.
The little bearing will be visible when you remove the drum.
As I said, take your time, study the manual, get someone to help if you can and you should be fine.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 23
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Thanks so much for the help here, I think I can, I think I can, I think I can...LOL
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 23
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So far so good, the dryer is tore down and the drum is out, I have to clean it out, then start replacing the parts, looks all downhill from here, just hope getting the belt back on won't be to hard..any tips?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Actually, getting the belt on this model is one of the easier tasks, and probably the easiest of any belt replacement. Just loop it over the drum after you have the drum in, then use the back service panel to put it over the tensioner and the motor pulley.
Look at the diagrams in the Stickey at the top of this page to see a diagram of how it goes.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 23
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A few questions before I run out and get a few screws that are stripped and or missing LOL once I pt the drum in is there enough room to put the belt on the drop itself from the front of the dryer? I thought it looked a bit tight. I still have the rear panel off so getting it over the pulley isn't a problem. Second I ran into a problem at first trying to get the ball hitch off the rear of the dryer, then I saw what I did. I guess the three screws nearest the center of the drum should have not been taken out until after I removed the drum? because what I had once the drum was out was the ball hitch (the largest part off the bearing assy) was still attached to the rear of the dryer, and the inside of the dryer looked nothing like what it showed in the manual at that point. I finally noticed by looking at the manual closer that it was supposed to come out with the drum. So the question is this, when replacing the drum and ball hitch, should I have someone hold the mounting clip to the rear of the dryer, while I attach the tinnerman with the static bearing to the inside wall, then attach the ball hitch to the rear of the drum and pop it into the tinnerman as I put the drum back in place? I guess I also need to grease the static bearing as well a the ball hitch? thanks for all the help, you have saved me 200 bucks!!! hope I can the process in my mind right..thanks again!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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That sounds good. With the ball hitch attached to the drum you will find it drops rather easily into place. You should have a small tube of high temp lubricant to grease everything up with.
You should be able to fit the belt over the drum once it is in place. Before you put anything else on turn the drum by hand in each direction to make certain everything is on correctly.
Keep at it, sounds like you are almost there.
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