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bobobeasley  
#31 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2009 4:34:10 AM(UTC)
bobobeasley

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Thanks this model # don't come up on this data base Rh2712143 and 5f312vegw and the # for the ignitor ap3104565
jorgey64  
#32 Posted : Thursday, February 18, 2010 10:37:46 PM(UTC)
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i have a problem my whirpool ice maker wont dispense ice everything else works fine
ptcicca  
#33 Posted : Friday, March 26, 2010 7:19:05 AM(UTC)
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Your article was great for a novice like myself. I'm still not sure how to go about determining which electronic component(s) in my dishwasher WU1000 have failed. I get all leds flashing along with the number 88. It's a Maytag, circa 1988, and the manuals are no longer available.

thanks again.
Gene  
#34 Posted : Friday, March 26, 2010 12:18:12 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: ptcicca Go to Quoted Post
Your article was great for a novice like myself. I'm still not sure how to go about determining which electronic component(s) in my dishwasher WU1000 have failed. I get all leds flashing along with the number 88. It's a Maytag, circa 1988, and the manuals are no longer available.

thanks again.


Answered here: http://forum.appliancepartspros...r-wu1000.html#post202131

Gene.
layperson  
#35 Posted : Monday, May 3, 2010 9:11:37 AM(UTC)
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Based on your helpful instructions on how to use a multi-meter, I was able to identify my problem with my Whirlpool Dryer. I would not have been able to do so otherwise.

I checked the thermostat, thermistor, fuse, and heating element. The heating element did not register anything. I pulled out the can that it sits in jostled it about to remove the element out of it's tight housing and presto, I discovered that the wire coil had burnt itself out in one spot.

Cleverly, I had taken photos of all of the parts with connecting terminals so that I could remember how to reconnect them properly. Presto, once I reassembled everything including of course the new heating element, the dryer heated up nicely and worked like a charm. Problem solved.

Thank you from your new friend in Canada. :)
tilebed  
#36 Posted : Saturday, August 28, 2010 11:23:58 AM(UTC)
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my meter reads 1.0 when not touching anything and when across fuse reads 1.0 does this mean its open?
Gene  
#37 Posted : Monday, August 30, 2010 11:15:04 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: tilebed Go to Quoted Post
my meter reads 1.0 when not touching anything and when across fuse reads 1.0 does this mean its open?


What kind of meter is it?

On which scale did you set it?

Gene.
tilebed  
#38 Posted : Monday, August 30, 2010 11:24:50 AM(UTC)
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Its adigital meter and it was set to ohms (200).
Gene  
#39 Posted : Monday, August 30, 2010 12:44:09 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Does it have a scale less than 200?

What does it read if you touch the probes each other?

Gene.
TK85  
#40 Posted : Friday, September 10, 2010 9:53:41 AM(UTC)
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Thank you so much for the tutorial! I have never used an Ohmmeter and need to test my Kenmore Refrigerator model 596.79272993 defrost heater and thermostat, and I'm not sure I understand where to place the probes. Do I understand correctly that the refrigerator should be unplugged?

Here's a little background, I do know that the defrost timer works, and I just changed the heater and thermostat because when clicked into defrost mode the heater was not turning on (the coils were totally iced over with thick ice and snow). The new heater clicked on in defrost mode hours after I installed it (I heard the crackling and popping), but 2 days later no crackling and popping in defrost mode and when I opened the back panel the heater was iced over. I figured the best step now is to check continuity on heater and thermostat.

Thank you for any advice you can give me.
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