Can anyone help. I have a 2 yr old kenmore washer. It starts up then quickly says (ol) I looked in the manual and it says over load. I took all of the clothes out and ran it empty. Everytime it runs with or without clothes I have the same problem. Sears wants to charge me $70.00 just to come out and give me an estimate. Any advice?

I'm not sure if I have this correct....... The guide says models 110.2703 & 2704 & 2705 & 2715. This is what is printed on the front cover of the use and care guide. It is a Kenmore elite Oasis. Does that help:confused:

I have the same problem with my Kenmore Oasis. No matter how many clothes I put in the machine, it will fill up and when it comes time to wash, will drain out and give me the oL signal. That means overloaded per the manual and it will do it with 2 itmes, none or a regular load. I called my repair guy and he said to call Sears about a rework on the control board.

After having Sears come out and replace the control board for free, I still have the same problem. The service technician thought it was the outer tub and basket not floating and most probably fused together. I called Sears again to see if there was a rework or recall on the tub and although he saw a repair warning on the tub, he would not send anyone out for free.

I have a repair company that I trust come out tomorrow to take a look at the machine and hopefully repair, will keep you posted.

I had the same problem getting the OL error and finally, after replacing several un-needed parts, found out how to fix it. So if your have the Kenmore Oasis or the Whirlpool Calypso, then read this before buying any parts.
OK, first off lets define what OL really stands for. Most people think it means "Over Load", but it actually stands for "Outa Luck" because every time I would replace a part that was suppose to fix the problem I would still get the "Outa Luck" error. So after buying a new "wire harness & motor control" for $100 and a new "Electronic control" for $200, I finally dug in and started ripping the machine apart to figure it out.
What I found out is that there is a critical function I kept reading about but did not exactly know what it actually meant, and that is that the basket needs to "float". Floating is when the tub fills up with water to a certain level the outter basket will rise about 1 inch from the center agitator. What this does is disengage the basket from the motor so that the agitator can rotate independently from the basket. If the basket does not float then when it trys to agitate the whole basket will turn back and forth at the same speed as the agitaor and this will cause the OL error code. The reason it gives the OL code is because if you pile too many clothes in the washer then it can keep the basket from floating properly.
I was getting the OL error even when there was only 2 small items in the washer, so it was not floating for some other reason besides being overloaded. You can check to see if the basket is floating freely by grabbing the inside top lip of the basket on both sides and pull up and if the basket raises about 1 inch then it is ok. But if it does not raise then you know there is a problem.
To fix the problem if the basket is not floating you will have to take the washer apart. Below are the steps to follow if you are mechanically able to tackle it,

1. Unplug the power cord
2. Lift the top of the washer up, to do this there are 2 latches in the seams between the top and the bottom sections. These latches are about 6 1/2 inches from the right side and left side of the washer. You need to insert a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the paint) and push the latch while lifting the top section.
3. The top will actually fold back leaving the inner tube fully exposed. Support the glass lid so it doesn't get damaged because it is very heavy and will fall open when you flip the top back.
4. Remove the plastic top of the tub. There is one hose connected at the back and there are several snaps around the outter edge that hold it on. Remove the hose and unsnap the snaps and set it aside.
5. Remove the cap covering the very center of the agitator. It is just snapped in place and can be pryed off with a small screwdriver.
6. Remove the center screw under the cap.
7. Remove the agitator, you need to lift it evenly and might have to work your way around by pulling on one of the three fins and then the next and so on. I also had luck using a small pair of needle nose pliers and grabing a small lip inside the area where the screw was and pulling from there.
8. Remove the 6 phillips screws in the middle holding the plastic top gear in place. Be very careful you don't drop one of the screws because it can fall through the slots in the basket and be lost below.
9. Remove the plastic top gear.
10. Pull the plastic lower gear off of the splined shaft. It should pull right off.
11. Now you need to pull the basket up and off of the shaft. This is where you might have problems because the basket might be corroded to the shaft. If you can grab the basket on both sides under the outter lip and pull upward it might pull up. If not, then you will have to figure out a way to get it off.
12. Once the basket is off you will notice there is liquid inside of it. That is factory sealed in there so do not worry about that, it is normal.
13. With the basket is off you will be able to see that the shaft is probably corroded and the inside bearing on the basket is corroded. Clean these both off very good and check to see if the basket can easily go back on the shaft and slide up and down without getting stuck. I had to sand and file the shaft a little bit to get it totally cleaned up. The inned bearing of the basket is plastic so it is pretty easy to clean with light sanding.
14. Reassemble in the reverse order and your done. Check to make sure the basket can easily float now by pulling up on it from the top inside lips.

I hope this saves some people a lot of aggrivation and money.

I had this exact same issue as tracehae did. OL code. Once I determined the basket was not floating I proceeded to take the thing apart. First the wash plate would not budge. I ended up grabbing two of the vanes with locking pliers and was able to rock it off the shaft, but that damages the wash plate (which I just bought from this site!). The basket was even worse - what I ended up doing was attaching locking pliers to the shaft, and rotating the shaft while my son pulled up on the basket. We finally got the basket off the shaft and discovered all that corrosion. Scraped and sanded it all and put it back together and it's all good.

What's interesting is this was my parent's machine. They had a different code and the service tech replace the motor sensor and harness. When that didn't work he threw up his hands and said the machine wasn't repairable. So my folks went out and got a new washer and dryer. They gave me the old one to try to fix. All I did was replace the main board and then solve the basket float problem. So I have a near-new Oasis pair for less than 200 bucks (including new wash plate). It's obvious the tech new nothong about how these machines are supposed to work, despite his claim he fixes them all the time.

Last comment - they don't make them like they used to! I have a 23-year old GE washer and dryer that still work great, although the tub and basket are rusting.