Replaced the timer two years ago. About a few months ago I noticed that the heat stayed on, even when I opened the door. Then seemed to stay on as long as the timer was not in an off position. They timer will also continue running. However, the dryer still worked.

Now suddenly the dryer won't start when I push the start button. The heat comes on and I can hear the timer whirling (obviously still not a good thing either)...just that now the dryer won't start at all.

Someone said maybe the switch on the motor had a short circuit? :mad: I was hoping it was just the "start button"...just my luck.

Any ideas?

Gene,
Thanks for the prompt reply...that sort of confirms my friends thoughts.

I checked for any sign of obvious burnt or discolored wires and all that looked fine...

Let's hope it's the heater...but my luck is that it will be the motor.

As for the motor continuity...I had the diagrams that you included, but they don't show wiring. When you say motor terminals 1M and 2M...can you please bear with me and explain to an idiot which those two are? I see the plastic wiring connector that plugs into the motor. There are three wires that connect to this part of the switch. Two coming from the motor (an orange and a puple). The third one is a blue wire that just jumps from there to another part of the swich. At this part of the switch, an third wire (another blue) also come from the motor and connects here. My guess is that the 1M and 2M might be the end of the switch where these two blue wires connect?

Thanks again.

Gene,
Thanks again for the prompt reply.
The white plastic end with the wires coming into it does not have any markings. The actual switch that it plugs into (black) does appear to have some numbers on it now that you mention it. The switch (black male end) is attached to the motor vertically...so reading from top to bottom, the numbers are 1, 5, 3, 4, 6, 2...the coresponding colored wires from the white plug that snaps into this are follows- red = 1, green = 5, whilte = 3, blue = 4, black = 6 and red = 2.

So back from an idots point of view...when you say 1M and 2M, I would think that means the 1 and the 2 markings on the switch (red & red)??? However, in your last response you mentioned that it should be a black and a red wire. Black is labeled with 6. Unless of course by 1M and 2M (dryer electicial talk) generally speaking that means position 1 and 2 (reading from bottom to top - left to right if you laid the switch flat)...which then would make that a red and black wire.

Sorry for being so lame...:eek:

Thanks again!

Thanks again.

I'm getting a tester tomorrow and will try this out.

Hope they have motors in stock...which really stinks as you can see that the switch can be taking off with two screws.

jttgb24..Check the terminal fuse in back of the dryer It,s only a small white unit if i,am right i think there,s 2 blue wires going to it.Make sure there is continuity between the 2 connections when you remove the wires.Also it sounds like your element shorted to ground .When you checked the element did you notice if the wires that make up the element where touching the housing[the metal can] if so there,s the problem with the heating element staying on ..also check for continuity of the terminal hi-limit fuse on the upper part of the heater can....good luck