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Very sorry, I forgot to mention that when I changed motor and mode shifter I also installed the new lid switch. Should I now disconnect the magnetic lid switch assy and bypass it?
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Did you run the error code removal procedure after you replaced the motor and shifter (described in the previous reply)? This procedure required by GE after any repairs done.
If it would not help, then bypass the lid switch just to make sure there is nothing wrong.
I do not like to say it, but there is a small chance that the bad motor and/or shifter damaged the control board. It's very seldom, but there is nothing else left.
Gene.
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Thank you. Did the error code after installation of new motor, mode shifter and lid switch. LED continues to blink in single blinks. Have already ordered new control circuit board. Will advise what transpires after this one.
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This is the latest in this GE Hydrowave model WJRE5500G1WW. When I inherited it, it will fill and drain only--no agitate or spin. The lid switch was already bypassed. I did the code correction. I also tested the motor outside. Nothing changed. Fuse was tested good and mode shifter coil tested open. So I ordered and received a new motor and new mode shifter shaft and installed them and ran the washer. Same problem---fill ok, no agitate, drain ok, no spin and so on. The LED changed a bit this time--straight blinking once every second or so. I then ordered and installed a new circuit board and tested--same...fill, no agitate, drain, no spin. the LED continues the same blining like the harbor light. I am ready to give up after having spent a bundle on this washer.
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With the lid closed check for 120 VAC between the orange wire (pin 6 of the C2 inverter connector) and the ground. Post the result.
Does the display continue to count down when the washer should wash and/or spin?
Gene.
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Thank you very much. Will conduct the test and report.
The green display lights appear be normal oonly during fill but not during when it's supposed to agitate or spin. Today I went over the error code several times as per the instructions (with the new lid switch installed) and later the llid removed and the to two wires (yellow and orange) connected. Nothing changed.
I took the motor outside and observed if it turned at anytime. It did not. Only the water pump and water level switch seem to work for now.
The LED continues to blink the moment the power is connected.
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There is 120 VAC during fill, LED continues to blink, fill stops, LED continues to blink, display light shows fill,120 VAC still there but motor not turning. Pump activated, 120 VAC still there, I hear a click like the old time timer click, display light shows rinse, pump continues to pump water, lid open, voltage drops to zero, lid closed, voltage back to 120, pump continues, motor idle, display light goes to spin while pump continues but motor does not turn, pump stops, end of washing? dislpay lights all off but 120 volts remain. LED continues to blink.
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Originally Posted by: Narapni  There is 120 VAC during fill, LED continues to blink, fill stops, LED continues to blink, display light shows fill,120 VAC still there but motor not turning. Pump activated, 120 VAC still there, I hear a click like the old time timer click, display light shows rinse, pump continues to pump water, lid open, voltage drops to zero, lid closed, voltage back to 120, pump continues, motor idle, display light goes to spin while pump continues but motor does not turn, pump stops, end of washing? dislpay lights all off but 120 volts remain. LED continues to blink. Check for 120 VAC between the pins 6 & 3 of the C2 inverter connector with the lid closed. Make sure there is correct signal from the water pressure switch (#10 on the diagram) to the control board. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Thank you. Just for the record again--the washer was received with an open coil in the mode shifter and it was filling and draining only. Then the mode shifter shaft assembly was replaced. It did not change matters. The motor was also replaced. Still the same. The control board was replaced---nothing changed. After your advice today I tested the water level switch first when power was off and it was closed. I turned the washer on and tested pins 6 and 3 and there was voltage. I then ohmed the water level switch with the power on and it remained closed during operation. With the power off, I blew the air hose to the water level switch but the needle did not go back to zero. It stayed halfway back to zero. What am I getting into after all these expensive replacements? Dont' tell me.
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There are three wires connected to the water level switch. Remove them all (memorize which one where goes) and connect them together. Start the washer on the spin cycle and see if it'll spin. It will continue filling - do not worry about it.
Post the results.
Gene.
P.S. The mode shifter and the motor were bad. No doubt about it. The control board was questionable and I told you about it.
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