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Mine was acting erratically. The control panel seemed to randomly "touch" itself, changing temperature at will.
Did the wire wiggle test, could not get it to act up at any given time.
Ended up pulling the control panel out, and touching a soldering iron to each connection on the board until the solder flowed as I suspected a cold solder joint.
Fixed my problem.
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Greetings All,
I am having a similar problem with the Control Panel. My model # is ESL25JFWA BS. It started with it not working after a Power Outage. When this would happen the fridge still had power, but it would not hold temp. This makes sense because you set the coldness on the control panel. I can't remember exactly how it would reset, if it did it on its own or if I had to intervene. I am fortunate that we have a seconde GE fridge in the Garage and it happens to have a similar control panel. It does not function properly, as in the ice and water wont work with it, but when I connect this panel it will keep temp it also somehow resets the fridge and after a time I can put original control panel on and it will then work. I have inspected all of the wires and I don't see any that are bare or corodid. I purchased a new control panel and the same symptoms occur. Any thoughts or ideas?
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Registered on this forum just to say thank you to all of you, especially bran9133.
I've replaced the actually front control panel, the solenoid, and water filter without getting the ice or water to start dispensing again. Creating a fresh connection on the blue wire at the bottom of the freezer door fixed it right away. Thanks!
A little background for anyone with a similar issue to mine. Here is what was happening for me.
Side by side GE. The freezer would make ice just fine, it just wouldn't dispense it out the front. Panel lights were on, ie I could select ice, chipped ice, water etc. It's just that it wouldn't actually dispense any water when pushing the lever. If you pushed the lever, the courtesy light would go on, so lever seemed to be triggering properly. Only button that didn't seem to work was the button for "Quick Ice". Push that one, and no response.
ALso when pressing lever, you could hear the ice chute door kick open, then close a few seconds later. Still I replaced the solenoid that opens that chute as it seemed a common problem. no better.
Replaced the front control panel. No better. Sometimes it would randomly work for 1/2 day, then go out again for a week.
I even read somewhere in the past about this wire thing, and thought to myself "That can't be it, I get power just fine, the lights are on etc". However, I think the wire that was bad was the blue wire, which might be the control wire. So, pushing the lever would control the things that were directly next to the chute (trap door solenoid, light etc), but would not send a signal back to the main body of the fridge (presumably via this blue wire) to trigger the auger, open the water valve etc.
I imagine if your wire problem was the hot or ground wire, then you might have more universal power issues to the control panel.
However, it seems if your issue is the blue wire, then you will have power to panel buttons except "quick ice".
Hope this helps convince someone else to try this wire trick earlier then I did, as it really was the problem.
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Joined: 12/6/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: NC
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GE PSS26SGPA Arctica Side by Side Sometimes White wire from control panel corrodes and breaks off which cuts off power supply to control panel. Replacement plastic white connector is not available for purchase, so it will require White (1) to Red Wires (2) splice. 1. Pull refrigerator plug to cutoff power. 2. Remove bottom grill. 3. Locate wire harness at wire harness/white connector next to water line behind the bottom grill cover on freezer side. 4. Splice/Solder White Wire from control panel that is going into White connector to Red wires coming out of white connector. (I added safety fuse between) 5. Secure appropriately using rubber shrink tubing/heat and confirm no bare wires. 6. Replace bottom grill. 7. Plug refrigerator back in. 10 min. Edited by user Sunday, December 6, 2020 6:29:38 AM(UTC)
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Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: bran9133  The problem has nothing to do with the motherboard nor the dispenser panel. The water filter also is not causing the problem. (I too replaced mine with a bypass.)
The solution is in the wiring that runs to the front panel ice/water dispenser. Assuming our fridges are identical, with the doors closed remove the plastic toe kick (two screws). At the bottom left you will see a trio (as I recall) of wires that pass from under the left-hand side of the unit and enter the left (freezer) door at the bottom. (The plastic water pipe to the dispenser also is here.) These wires may be wrapped in yellow tape and attached to the fridge frame with the same tape. Remove the tape.
When exposed you will see that these wires pass through a white plastic connector that cannot be unconnected. If you look closely, you will see that one of these very thin wires has probably broken or become unattached. The wires are colored so you will have no difficulty determining which wire that enters the connector belongs to which wire that exits the connector.
Cut the corresponding wire (make sure the fridge is unplugged) and attach it to the broken wire on the other side. Use yellow electrical tape to protect this connection and tape this wire to the top of the white connector (just so everything stays together). (I'm really not sure what purpose the connector serves. In any case, you cannot buy a replacement.)
Using generous applications of the same yellow tape, bind the entire trio of wires and the plastic connector together. Then attach it to the fridge frame as it was before you started so it will not break or become worn when you open the fridge door repeatedly.
This should solve your problem.
.......
While the dispenser panel is removed, take a look at the solenoid mounted beside it that controls the chute through which the ice exits. If yours is like mine, it probably is rusted and should be replaced, a very simple job.
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Thanks a ton for your suggestion about the door wiring connection at the bottom; EXACTLY the problem
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Originally Posted by: Blumeau Solved, GE freezer panel not working or intermittent. Found wires in connector at lower left corner of freezer door, (remove grate), had corroded and white wire was completely dissolved. Replaced connectors with 3 small gauge butt crimps. Back to Normal operation. Same issue! Really late reply but thanks! This is exactly what fixed mine.
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: bran9133 The problem has nothing to do with the motherboard nor the dispenser panel. The water filter also is not causing the problem. (I too replaced mine with a bypass.)
The solution is in the wiring that runs to the front panel ice/water dispenser. Assuming our fridges are identical, with the doors closed remove the plastic toe kick (two screws). At the bottom left you will see a trio (as I recall) of wires that pass from under the left-hand side of the unit and enter the left (freezer) door at the bottom. (The plastic water pipe to the dispenser also is here.) These wires may be wrapped in yellow tape and attached to the fridge frame with the same tape. Remove the tape.
When exposed you will see that these wires pass through a white plastic connector that cannot be unconnected. If you look closely, you will see that one of these very thin wires has probably broken or become unattached. The wires are colored so you will have no difficulty determining which wire that enters the connector belongs to which wire that exits the connector.
Cut the corresponding wire (make sure the fridge is unplugged) and attach it to the broken wire on the other side. Use yellow electrical tape to protect this connection and tape this wire to the top of the white connector (just so everything stays together). (I'm really not sure what purpose the connector serves. In any case, you cannot buy a replacement.)
Using generous applications of the same yellow tape, bind the entire trio of wires and the plastic connector together. Then attach it to the fridge frame as it was before you started so it will not break or become worn when you open the fridge door repeatedly.
This should solve your problem.
.......
While the dispenser panel is removed, take a look at the solenoid mounted beside it that controls the chute through which the ice exits. If yours is like mine, it probably is rusted and should be replaced, a very simple job. How do you remove the dispenser panel?
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: bran9133 The problem has nothing to do with the motherboard nor the dispenser panel. The water filter also is not causing the problem. (I too replaced mine with a bypass.)
The solution is in the wiring that runs to the front panel ice/water dispenser. Assuming our fridges are identical, with the doors closed remove the plastic toe kick (two screws). At the bottom left you will see a trio (as I recall) of wires that pass from under the left-hand side of the unit and enter the left (freezer) door at the bottom. (The plastic water pipe to the dispenser also is here.) These wires may be wrapped in yellow tape and attached to the fridge frame with the same tape. Remove the tape.
When exposed you will see that these wires pass through a white plastic connector that cannot be unconnected. If you look closely, you will see that one of these very thin wires has probably broken or become unattached. The wires are colored so you will have no difficulty determining which wire that enters the connector belongs to which wire that exits the connector.
Cut the corresponding wire (make sure the fridge is unplugged) and attach it to the broken wire on the other side. Use yellow electrical tape to protect this connection and tape this wire to the top of the white connector (just so everything stays together). (I'm really not sure what purpose the connector serves. In any case, you cannot buy a replacement.)
Using generous applications of the same yellow tape, bind the entire trio of wires and the plastic connector together. Then attach it to the fridge frame as it was before you started so it will not break or become worn when you open the fridge door repeatedly.
This should solve your problem.
.......
While the dispenser panel is removed, take a look at the solenoid mounted beside it that controls the chute through which the ice exits. If yours is like mine, it probably is rusted and should be replaced, a very simple job.
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