Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/28/2012(UTC)
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My service man checked the defrost and the problem is not a defrost issue. We also checked the fans that circulate the air and they are working fine.
He also replaced the mother board twice, last night he replaced the overload sensor on the compressor in case it was shutting down the compress too soon.
That still did not fix the problem. He is pretty sure the only thing left is the compressor. It is a good frige not too old, and it would be worth replacing the compress IF that fixes it. We are just trying to rule out all other options before we go there because of the expense.
The damper is also opening and closing so it works.
Thank you so much for helping us trouble shoot, is there anything else you can think of we might check? (the service man a friend who isn't charging me far all this work. He is a professional appliance repairman).
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/28/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3
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My service man checked the defrost and the problem is not a defrost issue. We also checked the fans that circulate the air and they are working fine.
He also replaced the mother board twice, last night he replaced the overload sensor on the compressor in case it was shutting down the compress too soon.
That still did not fix the problem. He is pretty sure the only thing left is the compressor. It is a good frige not too old, and it would be worth replacing the compress IF that fixes it. We are just trying to rule out all other options before we go there because of the expense.
The damper is also opening and closing so it works.
Thank you so much for helping us trouble shoot, is there anything else you can think of we might check? (the service man a friend who isn't charging me far all this work. He is a professional appliance repairman).
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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There is not enough information for me for any conclusions. If the guy is a pro then you have to trust him.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/24/2012(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Originally Posted by: Gene  These parts are inexpensive and it would not hurt to replace them.
Gene. Done. Replaced PCB and it seems to have done the job. Shortly before replacing it, I removed the frig-side evap cover and the evap was completely frozen over...much worse than previous occasions. I thawed it out and replaced the cover, replaced the PCB, dusted off the rear compartment, and after a few hours it cooled down to 0° on the freezer side and 34° on the frig side (I did NOT turn on the 'Power Cool' or 'Power Freeze' modes), and has been stable for almost 24 hours. Internal temps from my thermometer also match the displays, which wasn't happening prior to replacing the PCB. I also performed a self-diagnostic, and received NO error messages. I'll be closely monitoring it over the next few days, but it seems to have corrected the cooling issue on the frig side. Thank you very much for your assistance! It's greatly appreciated! Jim
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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You are welcome Jim. I'm glad it's up and running.
Thank you for the feed back.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/20/2012(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Hi. Using the multimeter check the continuity of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat (must be ice cold). If both checks out OK - replace the defrost control board. The thermostat Part number: 2321799
The heater Part number: 2263749
So Simon helped me diagnose my fridge problem a few weeks ago (I have Whirlpool model W8FRNGFVQ 00). Because the fridge uses an electronic defrost control, the standard check the heater, the thermostat, and the defrost control method for diagnosis doesn't work (you can't easily check an electronic defrost control). Simon astutely pointed out that I don't necessarily need to check all three; checking two may be enough. So I checked the heater, it worked. Then I dunked the thermostat and checked it; it was dead. That meant that either just my thermostat was out OR that both my thermostat and my elec. defrost control were out (since there's no easy way to rule the defrost control out). Taking the path of least resistance and least cost, I bought a new thermostat for $20 online and installed it (which meant cutting out the old one from the wiring harness and splicing the new one to the wires still going into the wiring harness and also learning from a youtube video how to make a weatherproof connection). I figured that I would run the fridge for a while and if it iced up again I would know that the electronic defrost control needed to be replaced as well. Well it has been about 3 weeks since I replaced the thermostat and I am happy to report that the fridge is cold and has not iced up again. Thank you Simon, because of your advice and guidance for a cost of $20 I was able to fix and keep a fridge that I would have otherwise thrown out.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/9/2012(UTC)
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My whirlpool refrigerator/freezer dont seem to be working to their full capabilities..i cleaned the bottom airduct a few days ago thinking this would help but still the same problem. today i took the back panel off the freezer compartment and saw some ice on the evaperator, used a hairdryer to remove it..now its just a waiting game, but what do i do if this doesnt help??...really dont have the money for a repairman
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
Open the rear panel in the freezer and see if the evaporator coils are covered with frost evenly. If the evaporator is covered only partially or there is an ice block in one corner - then most likely it's a sealed system problem and requires a professional.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/9/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2
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ugggghhhhhh..didnt wanna hear that
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