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Hello, my 5 year old Whirlpool refrigerator, model number gb2shdxtb00 is having the same trouble (freezer cold, fridge not so much), and I have defrosted it manually with a hair drier, and also let it defrost overnight. It works great for a week or two, sometimes longer, defrosts properly, cycles on and off and everything. Then I see frost start to build up on the front top ledge on the door, as well as the fins inside the rear vents start to freeze over. There is also frosting/freezing on the inside back wall of the freezer compartment. Eventually it freezes to the point of the fridge not cooling off at all. The door seals look and feel fine. I guess my main question is whether this model has a system board or a defrost timer, and where should I begin to troubleshoot?
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Yes, there is the control board inside the control box. Sounds like this control board is the culprit. - The control board Part number: AP4366538
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Thanks for the rapid reply. I will get busy with this and let you know how it goes. One more question, is this control board under the light fixture in the freezer compartment?
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No. It is located inside the control box in the fresh food compartment, behind the keypad.
Gene.
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Thanks Gene! Among other things, my computer decided to give me problems too so sorry about the late reply!
Based on the information I received, it looks like I'm in need of a new main control board so I'll be sure to pick one up. Just a few other things though... intermittently, my fridge is giving off a distinguishably loud humming noise and I've also noticed that my "turbo cool" feature on the inside control panel is not working. Do you know if those are things that will be resolved with a new main control board ?
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Originally Posted by: jshirghio  Thanks for the rapid reply. I will get busy with this and let you know how it goes. One more question, is this control board under the light fixture in the freezer compartment? Gene, a few additional questions. 1.) Can you verify that to get to the control board I have to loosen the one screw that holds the light cover on the back of the control box; do I get in that way? 2.) How common is a control board replacement in these refrigerators? 3.) What would the difference in symptoms be if the door seals were the culprit? 4.) Do I need to defrost the freezer before I replace the control board, or will the system thaw itself once the new board is operational? Thanks for all your help. Just got the control board in the mail yesterday (4/9/12). Before I start the replacement, can you help me with my questions above? Thanks!
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Originally Posted by: jshirghio ...1.) Can you verify that to get to the control board I have to loosen the one screw that holds the light cover on the back of the control box; do I get in that way?...
...2.) How common is a control board replacement in these refrigerators?...
...3.) What would the difference in symptoms be if the door seals were the culprit?...
...4.) Do I need to defrost the freezer before I replace the control board, or will the system thaw itself once the new board is operational?...
1. I can not find any instructions, so I'm not sure how the control box is secured. In such situation using common sense is the best solution. 2. This is definitely not the most common issue, but as any electronic part, it's not very reliable. 3. I never seen a broken door seal causing a frosted over evaporator coils. 4. It's better to defrost it before or after you do the job. It will take much longer time for the system to do it. Gene.
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Hi everyone,
I'm having a problem with a Frigidaire Gallery fridge that's about 5 years old. Model number GS18HTZDB1.
After removing the plastic housing that holds the light bulb (goes all the way front to back) I was able to see that there was about an inch of ice covering the entire vent at the back. I chiseled it away carefully, but 48 hours later the fridge still isn't cooling. Previously, I'd tried unplugging the unit for 48 hours which also didn't seem to help. At first the problem was intermittent, but now it has been a solid month that the fridge is significantly warmer than it should be. I read the first post and will give that a shot tomorrow, but I thought maybe I'd see if there's something else to try first. Could the fan be jammed up with ice? I haven't removed the plastic cover in the freezer section yet, but I'm curious to see what it looks like back there since there's some ice on the temp control dial.
Any help is appreciated!
Jeff
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for the quick reply! I took the fridge light/temp-select section out again and this time also removed the back panel of the freezer. The LAST time I removed ice I was removing it from the warm air return vent. I thought it was the cold air vent. I'm not sure if you're familiar with this model but the two vents are about 1" apart at the center of the rear of the fridge compartment.
The warm air vent (at least I assume it's the warm air one) is in the rear and goes up into the area behind the freezer back panel, and the other goes into the white plastic section that houses the fan. The one with the fan had over 2" thick ice blocking the hole completely. Everything else back there looked ok - not much frost on the radiator looking thing or anywhere else.
After removing the ice I thought for SURE the problem would be at least temporarily solved. The fan was spinning freely, everything looked fine. It's now about 48-72 hours after the repair and the fridge is a BIT colder than before, but nowhere near where it's supposed to be, I'm sure. Drinks still definitely require ice cubes, for example.
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