I disconnected the orange wire from the heating element, and the orange wire that hits the control board. I get 0 ohms with the latch both closed a and open. I think the circuit is open because it runs past the high limit thermostat.
0 ohms is a short not an open. Also I cannot relate this to the wiring diagram as I do not see an orange wire going to the board


If I measure from the white-violate wire to the other side of the door switch (left side of the dishwasher while facing the front, that runs from the heating element to the door switch), I also get zero both open and closed.
This I cannot explain. Seems to indicate that the door switch contacts are welded together (a short, 0 ohms) but this will not cause no heat. The switch must be closed (a short, 0 ohms) for the heater to run.

What the next step?
Are you sure you are reading the meter correctly?

The other has a white with violate stripe and a solid white wire attached to it. Am I supposed to be checking that the w-v wire coming off the heating element is at 0 after the door switch (where it hits the white wire? If so I can just check that I get a short when I close the door switch. Does this sound correct?

I just checked that the w-v wire is gives resistance to the door switch (it does) and that the w-v wire to the white wire on the other side of the door switch gives me resistance (when the switch is in its closed position).

Lets check the meter first
Put the meter onto the lowest resistance scale
Should read an open (infinite resistance)
Now short the leads together should read close to zero.
Whatever the value, this now becomes your zero

Am not sure about what resistance you mean, what is the value, it should be close to 0.
Now with one lead on the white/violet wire qt the heating element and the other at the white/violet on the switch. Should be zero. This tells us this wire is OK.
Now remove the white wire from the other side of the switch
It is always a good idea to remove at least on wire from any device you are measuring. This ensures that you do not measure an alternate/parallel circuit path instead of the device you want to check.
Not measure from the white/violet to the side of the switch which used to have the wire on it. Should be infinite ohms.
Now activate the switch. Should go to a short (0 ohms).

This does not rule out this component but it does tell us that the switch is OK. It could be that it is not being closed by the latch.

I have the two wires attached to the thermostater (i get .7 of resistance between them).
If this is on the lowest scale (0 to 200 ohms) it is 0.7 ohms, basically 0. On a 20 kilohm scale this could be 700 ohms. The reading is dependent on which scale you are using and the readibility of the meter (number of digits) so when checking for closed contacts you always use the lowest scale.

What is the terminal on the bracket for?
Probably for a ground wire. This clip may be used with other dishwashers where a ground wire is required

I still may be misunderstanding something. Let me know.
No, I think we are getting there

Thank you for your patience with all of this.
Your patience is probably taking a much worse beating than mine.
I would rather go slow and sure than fast and arc & spark.
I used to work with a guy who was always in a rush, we called him Sparky.

All the readings in your last post read OK.

Next:
With one lead on the White/Violet at the switch and the other lead on White/Red at the circuit board P6. Take a reading. Should be 10.7 ohms.
This checks that the circuit all the way from the board, through the heater to power is OK.

Next:
Short the White and the White/Violet wires at the switch together.
Tape them so they cannot short to anything.
Try a heat only (dry) cycle
You may have to reinstall the inner door cover.
This removes the door switch not being activated by the latch as a possible cause of your problem.
Check it the heater gets hot. Be careful do not burn your fingers.

If it does not heat up then all that is left is the circuit board is shot.
If it does heat then something is wrong with the latch assembly and the switch is not being closed.

I looked at the operators manual does not look like you can just run a heated dry.
So you may have to close it up and run a cycle to see if the heater now runs.


The ground should not have any effect

With the white and white violet wires shorted together (I had to make a jumper out of a piece of wire to do this) The light started blinking again. I was not able to check if the element got hot (I'm not sure at what point in the cycle to open the thing and check). It does not make it through the entire cycle.

Edited to add: I just opened it up and the heating element is still hot, but the error light (7 blinks) is still going. I don't think that this was one of the expected results.

Control board?