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Hi Ted,
Unfortunately I have tried these steps before and used a plastic tie in the middle where they cross but that did not make a difference.
I appreciate your taking the time to respond. I am not sure if you saw my part about the right side of the right spring not aligning correctly and overlapping with the hinge by about half an inch.
I have to use pliers and a mallet to get the right spring in place. I doubt that is how the manufacturer has designed it to be inserted. That tells me that this batch of right side springs have a problem in them(the left side goes in without a hitch).
Is the right side spring not meant to align correctly with the hole(on the left) and the hook on the right resting on the hinge? Am I supposed to use a plier and a mallet to hammer it in? Also can you look at the images that I have in my previous email and comment on how the right hand spring is resting on the hinge(is that how it should be) when the left side is aligned with the hole?
I don't think I have missed any step(really there is no step that you can miss :) ) Otherwise you would be way off. However I think you will be able to tell by looking at the photos(videos that I have posted before) if there is anything wrong with how I have the spring insert.
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Hi. The reason for the tie wrap is so in the future if the spring breaks it will not shatter the front glass. And yes, I did see your good pictures and the supplied video. I too agree that the rt. side hinge/springs should exactly mimic the lt. side hinge as you show in the piuctures. In a new model service manual, it shows a side view of a spring coming over to the top of the front hinge and then the end hook is placed in the middle hole above the hinge pivot poinrt. Now take in mind that the service manual is not from your model. It is extremely rare that a service manual discusses microwave door issues. No- you should not use a mallot to hammer these torsion springs in. WPL has a video that is currently misplaced since they updated a service matters area where information is stored. They are working on this issue to find it. Did you read all the pages of this issue on this site? See page 1 and 2 to read sucessful steps of replacement on theses springs. Wpl. Tech line verified you are getting the correct parts. They also said that you use correct parts listed on the correct outer door panel type. So the myth of the stainless panel torsion springs for all types are incorrect. We have given you all the current information we can get. Best wishes. If you can supply me a email address I will send the similar manual I previously talked about. Thank You. Originally Posted by: jaywalker1981  Hi Ted,
Unfortunately I have tried these steps before and used a plastic tie in the middle where they cross but that did not make a difference.
I appreciate your taking the time to respond. I am not sure if you saw my part about the right side of the right spring not aligning correctly and overlapping with the hinge by about half an inch.
I have to use pliers and a mallet to get the right spring in place. I doubt that is how the manufacturer has designed it to be inserted. That tells me that this batch of right side springs have a problem in them(the left side goes in without a hitch).
Is the right side spring not meant to align correctly with the hole(on the left) and the hook on the right resting on the hinge? Am I supposed to use a plier and a mallet to hammer it in? Also can you look at the images that I have in my previous email and comment on how the right hand spring is resting on the hinge(is that how it should be) when the left side is aligned with the hole?
I don't think I have missed any step(really there is no step that you can miss :) ) Otherwise you would be way off. However I think you will be able to tell by looking at the photos(videos that I have posted before) if there is anything wrong with how I have the spring insert.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/14/2012(UTC)
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At this time I think both of us agree that the problem is with the part. Earlier you said I could have received a part from the old batch. How do I verify if its from the old batch or not?
I have read and reread all 8 pages of this thread atleast 10 times. So I am pretty sure I con't have missed anything. Once you have the springs visible, removing the old ones and inserting the new ones is pretty straight forward. I can't think of a way that you could insert the spring in its place any other way.
In any event, it won't hurt to see the video(once WPL recovers it) and the manual you are referring to. Please email it to: omersm at gmail dot com
Do you know how long ago WPL lost that video. I seem to remember that its been lost for a few years now. So its possible they might not have any plans of bringing it back.
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Hi. Check your email for the response needed. Thank You.
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Originally Posted by: Sgtduckyboy Thanks Gene. I wasnt saying I had to use 2 identical springs. I was saying the comments at the beginning of this thread are unclear and seem to be saying to use 2 of the 1009 models... and others who have 2 said they cant get two to work on their model... and ours is not stainless steel but is brushed aluminum. magnets dont stick to it. so that is why I am confused. our door is lighter than the steel, so I dont want a stronger spring unless it prolongs the mean time between failures. with that information, which 2 do i order?? thanks Magnets don't stick to good stainless steel...your oven is the stainless model.
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Same problem (I can not get the vent off KBMC140HSS03 vent to get to screws that hold on the plastic door frame.). Did you ever figure it out??? Thanks - swhit
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Rank: Member
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I was able to get the vent screw undone using Vise-Grip pliers, with a needle nose. These were thin enough and strong enough to grap the head of the screw and slowly turn it, but my installer hadn't driven the screw all the way down, so that made it easier. Then the vent lifted up and sideways, to allow access to the hidden screw.
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What a great instructional blog with pictures. I am not sure I would have been able to fix this without your instructions. I am a happy camper. Thank you so much!!1
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Evo, thanks for the pictures and your instructions. Just replaced my broken right hand torsion spring without issues. The only difficulty I ran into was pushing the microwave back into its space, the oven is heavy and there is a brace in the back, had to support the back of the oven to get it over the brace so it would slide back. I accomplished this was a long 1/2" breaker bar wedged onto the slider for the microwave on the right hand side.
The manufacturer was a little heavy handed with the sheet metal screws, my right side plastic bezel screw (the one underneath the door) was stripped and wouldn't tighten the plastic bezel. I replaced it with a coarse threaded sheet metal screw of about the same diameter and didn't overly tighten it.
mikeCsix
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Rank: Member
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A couple of points, first - to the one that wanted to use a mallet to install the spring, mallet not needed. The spring has to be torqued a bit to get it to fit. This can be done by hand.
The other point is there should be tension on the spring when installed, and you'll find more force holding the door in or up. There will also be a lot of resistance to opening the door without the Stainless cover in place - as one would expect.
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