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Originally Posted by: FourMaxK1  thanks, I'll revisit my initial diagnosis and your suggestion on my next day off. will advise. thanks again.
You could have a frozen water tank, but based on your post, Joe / APP team Yup, I double checked the voltage to the red solenoid and when my wife pushes the water dispenser lever I am getting anywhere from 2 - 12 volts. When she releases the lever it momentarily spikes to 108 - 118 v. Do you still think it is the mother board. Thx.
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Originally Posted by: FourMaxK1 Joe / APP team
Yup, I double checked the voltage to the red solenoid and when my wife pushes the water dispenser lever I am getting anywhere from 2 - 12 volts. When she releases the lever it momentarily spikes to 108 - 118 v. Do you still think it is the mother board. Thx. FourMax, Yes, I still am pretty sure you have a bad "motherboard". Part number: AP4436216
I would estimate, approximately 90% of the failures, on your type and brand of refrigerator, usually trace back to the mother board. With the tests and checks you've made, I'm 90 % sure you'll need the board. :) :) :)
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Thanks Joe,
I guess ordering the motherboard is cheaper than calling the appliance guy! thx again.
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Originally Posted by: FourMaxK1 Thanks Joe,
I guess ordering the motherboard is cheaper than calling the appliance guy! thx again. FourMax, Based on what I hear, Yes, it'll be less expensive, in the long run. Just remeber to unplug the machine first, also take your time and be careful, Let us know how things go. :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team FourMax,
Based on what I hear, Yes, it'll be less expensive, in the long run.
Just remeber to unplug the machine first, also take your time and be careful,
Let us know how things go.
:) :) :) Will do!!!!
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Originally Posted by: FourMaxK1 Will do!!!! OK, Will keep an eye out for your next post. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Joe / app team,Well I put in a new mother board and no luck. I can hear the red solenoid click & the water line jump, but no water through the dispenser.
I rechecked the voltage to the solenoid and it is irregular - mostly around 2.3 v when the switch is activated with jumps in v anywhere from 5 -13 v when the switch is released.
I pulled the switch out of the door again and it is getting continuity. Icemaker still works fine. Any thoughts?
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Originally Posted by: FourMaxK1 Joe / app team,Well I put in a new mother board and no luck. I can hear the red solenoid click & the water line jump, but no water through the dispenser.
I rechecked the voltage to the solenoid and it is irregular - mostly around 2.3 v when the switch is activated with jumps in v anywhere from 5 -13 v when the switch is released.
I pulled the switch out of the door again and it is getting continuity. Icemaker still works fine. Any thoughts? FourMax, I'm sorry, I should have got you to the most simple checks first. Now, it sounds like you've got a frozen water reservoir, or clogged filter in the water dispenser system. You said you can hear the red solenoid click and the water line jump, That indicates the valve is openning, and water is flowing as far as it can, or until it hits the clog or frozen water tank. :o :o :o
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Ok, I have checked the exploded views of the fridge and I don't see a water storage tank/reservoir - where is it?
Secondly, you mention possible clog. This happened coincidentally when I replaced the filter, but I used the bypass and the same result.
So how do I thaw or unplug the lines? Thx
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Originally Posted by: FourMaxK1 Ok, I have checked the exploded views of the fridge and I don't see a water storage tank/reservoir - where is it?
Secondly, you mention possible clog. This happened coincidentally when I replaced the filter, but I used the bypass and the same result.
So how do I thaw or unplug the lines? Thx Max, You have a water reservoir coil, it's located on the back wall of the fridge compartment behind the crisper drawers. It looks like a water fill tube all coiled up. Part number: AP3186680
In the mean time, I 'll check to see if there were any tech notes about failed filter housings.:cool: :cool: :cool:
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