Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

30 Pages«<27282930>
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Johnnyairtime  
#281 Posted : Friday, September 4, 2015 6:08:44 PM(UTC)
Johnnyairtime

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/4/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Hola folks....

FINALLY Tackling my wash tub repair(s)

It's been with issues for about 8 months, and finally stopped working. But it went from super quiet to sounding like a jet engine when spinning over the past year. I'm pretty sure the clutch was taken out, as the bearings all look pretty good. Yet, I'm replacing them all.

Now, I have a some questions;

1) How in the world do you get the small bearing out of the spinner support shaft. Bearing at one end, with needle bearing at the other. I can't get a decent bite with a screwdriver or 1/4" ratchet extension to beat the bearing out. How in the world do you all get it out of there? Bearing puller?

2) I see there's mention of removing the sleeve on the base of the shaft and to not re-use it (and again by Dick in post #272). It's a metal over rubber, and very thin. Is that truly a leftover part of the Tub Seal? I looked at the tub seal, and didn't see those two parts I just pulled off. Just looking for a warm-n-fuzzy confirmation.

3) When removing the 6 bolts on the spinner shaft hub... well, so far 4 have broken off. In fact, they broke with NO EFFORT. Seems they are or were on their last leg already. What are they made of? Lead? (sarcasm) I mean... super soft. The other two that are left won't budge just yet. I'm going to assume they'll break too. Soaking them now, and trying to be patient. It looks like I can just bolt the assembly back together using bolts and nylock nuts (with washers of course) and call it a day (like Doug13031 did). Yes?

4) The M36 washer/spacer.... I'm assuming it's for the bottom of the tub. I pushed out a bearing, but it's like only half of it came out. Never seen anything like it. Pretty darn odd looking, so I attached three pictures to confirm. I'd assume the washer takes up the space of the piece I didn't get pushed out yet. Yes?

5) My belt has some wear. I'm wondering if I should wait and get a new one before buttoning this all up. Has anyone had a belt fail? If so... no problems occur, other then the machine not working... right? Easy to replace it looks like by just dropping the front panel. Yes?

And, without this forum... I'd be lost :confused: . Probably not repair and be buying new. Right now I'm on a rental unit and it works great ($80/month). So I have time ... but, my back patio is a mess right now. I'd like to get it buttoned up asap.

Thank you all in advance!!!
Johnnyairtime attached the following image(s):
2015-09-04 18.53.28.jpg
2015-09-04 18.53.37.jpg
2015-09-04 18.53.45.jpg
Johnnyairtime  
#282 Posted : Saturday, September 5, 2015 10:17:55 AM(UTC)
Johnnyairtime

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/4/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post
Hola folks....

FINALLY Tackling my wash tub repair(s)

It's been with issues for about 8 months, and finally stopped working. But it went from super quiet to sounding like a jet engine when spinning over the past year. I'm pretty sure the clutch was taken out, as the bearings all look pretty good. Yet, I'm replacing them all.

Now, I have a some questions;


Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post

1) How in the world do you get the small bearing out of the spinner support shaft. Bearing at one end, with needle bearing at the other. I can't get a decent bite with a screwdriver or 1/4" ratchet extension to beat the bearing out. How in the world do you all get it out of there? Bearing puller?


Got it!! Used a tad bit of heat on the spinner shaft, and used the female end of a 1/4" socket extension. Pounded out no problem.

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post

2) I see there's mention of removing the sleeve on the base of the shaft and to not re-use it (and again by Dick in post #272). It's a metal over rubber, and very thin. Is that truly a leftover part of the Tub Seal? I looked at the tub seal, and didn't see those two parts I just pulled off. Just looking for a warm-n-fuzzy confirmation.


Going to go with it, and trust the other posts on this.

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post

3) When removing the 6 bolts on the spinner shaft hub... well, so far 4 have broken off. In fact, they broke with NO EFFORT. Seems they are or were on their last leg already. What are they made of? Lead? (sarcasm) I mean... super soft. The other two that are left won't budge just yet. I'm going to assume they'll break too. Soaking them now, and trying to be patient. It looks like I can just bolt the assembly back together using bolts and nylock nuts (with washers of course) and call it a day (like Doug13031 did). Yes?


This AM, I removed the two last bolts using my 1/2" impact. I was prepared to break the bolts... but, they backed out. Amazing.

Of the 4 broken; I was able to get two more studs removed, being the bolt head broke just under the head. So once the spinner shaft plate thing came off, I was able to use some heat on the plate backside and use vise grips to get TWO of the 4 broken removed. There's still two that are broken off flush with the plate. I tried drilling the bolt, extracting with heat on the backside of the plate... and no go. Broke more extractors then I did good. Those bolts are seized in there good. I think I'll abandon the two, and drill and tap two more in the similar area. 4 of the 6 bolts will hold the majority, with the other two holding and I'll back nut them. Should do the trick I think. :o

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post

4) The M36 washer/spacer.... I'm assuming it's for the bottom of the tub. I pushed out a bearing, but it's like only half of it came out. Never seen anything like it. Pretty darn odd looking, so I attached three pictures to confirm. I'd assume the washer takes up the space of the piece I didn't get pushed out yet. Yes?


Still waiting on some help with this... ANYONE?

EDIT: No worries... made my own. See next post.

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post

5) My belt has some wear. I'm wondering if I should wait and get a new one before buttoning this all up. Has anyone had a belt fail? If so... no problems occur, other then the machine not working... right? Easy to replace it looks like by just dropping the front panel. Yes?

Hello? Anyone?

EDIT: never mind... put it back together and called it a day. I'll order, and have on hand for that day we need it.

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post

And, without this forum... I'd be lost :confused: . Probably not repair and be buying new. Right now I'm on a rental unit and it works great ($80/month). So I have time ... but, my back patio is a mess right now. I'd like to get it buttoned up asap.

Thank you all in advance!!!


What a way to spend my labor day :rolleyes:
Johnnyairtime  
#283 Posted : Saturday, September 5, 2015 1:08:03 PM(UTC)
Johnnyairtime

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/4/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Originally Posted by: dh1200s Go to Quoted Post
.............
What are the first two digits of your Serial Number of your FAV6800A or FAV9800A?

Maytag redesigned the Outer Tub I believe starting with Series 12 and above machines. If your machine is a Series 10 or11 you will use standard off the shelf 6207-2RS Bearings. If your machine is a Series 12 or above you can still use 6207-2RS bearings but you will need to shim out I believe the lower Outer Tub bearing on reassembly.

If you need to replace the Outer Tub Bearings;
Qty 2 6207-2RS Bearing 35x72x17 Sealed (note can be used for Series 12 thru 17 but requires some mod).

...........Dick


Dick... I have the 17 series. It did NOT have a one-way bearing in the outer tub assembly. The top bearing (in the outer tub) was locked up solid with rust, but labeled as a 6207-2RS. The bottom, is as I've pictured previously and like none I've ever seen, but definitely not one-way.

I'm going to reassemble mine with the 6207-2RS and no M36 shim (Labor Day weekend, and all is closed). Instead, I made my own shim out of 1.75" .090 tubing. It only needed to be an 1/8" or 3/16" thick or so (see below picture). Easy peasy. The bear of a chore, was to get out the other half of the old lower bearing (outer tub). I was cursin' a bit, but got it out.

It's all back together... and runs like a champ. SO QUIET once again. Ahhh... no more jet engine sound in the garage.

I found my top bearing in the outer tub to be main issue, and the clutch as second issue. I didn't disect the clutch, I just replaced it. But between the two items, I'm sure it was it's demise.
Johnnyairtime attached the following image(s):
2015-09-05 14.21.17.jpg
Johnnyairtime  
#284 Posted : Saturday, September 26, 2015 10:00:08 AM(UTC)
Johnnyairtime

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/4/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post
Dick... I have the 17 series. It did NOT have a one-way bearing in the outer tub assembly. The top bearing (in the outer tub) was locked up solid with rust, but labeled as a 6207-2RS. The bottom, is as I've pictured previously and like none I've ever seen, but definitely not one-way.


Apparently... I am wrong. This odd looking bearing that seemed to be both-ways, was apparently my one-way bearing that was shot due to tub seal leakage and the top bearing being locked up (I'm guessing).

Reason is... my machine is continually getting a DC error. It'll push all the clothes to one side and beat itself to death.

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post

I'm going to reassemble mine with the 6207-2RS and no M36 shim (Labor Day weekend, and all is closed). Instead, I made my own shim out of 1.75" .090 tubing. It only needed to be an 1/8" or 3/16" thick or so (see below picture). Easy peasy. The bear of a chore, was to get out the other half of the old lower bearing (outer tub). I was cursin' a bit, but got it out.

It's all back together... and runs like a champ. SO QUIET once again. Ahhh... no more jet engine sound in the garage.

I found my top bearing in the outer tub to be main issue, and the clutch as second issue. I didn't disect the clutch, I just replaced it. But between the two items, I'm sure it was it's demise.


I read through these posts, but failed to find my previous thread here;
Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWW - cannot complete "Quick service cycle"

Which clearly Dick explains my model needs the ONE-WAY bearing to function properly.... oh well, another 2hrs once I get the bearing and it truly will be back in business once again. ...just frustrating that I find the info today, as I notice the washing machine beating itself to death.:mad:
dh1200s  
#285 Posted : Sunday, December 27, 2015 3:33:02 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 460

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post
Apparently... I am wrong. This odd looking bearing that seemed to be both-ways, was apparently my one-way bearing that was shot due to tub seal leakage and the top bearing being locked up (I'm guessing).

Reason is... my machine is continually getting a DC error. It'll push all the clothes to one side and beat itself to death.



I read through these posts, but failed to find my previous thread here;
Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWW - cannot complete "Quick service cycle"

Which clearly Dick explains my model needs the ONE-WAY bearing to function properly.... oh well, another 2hrs once I get the bearing and it truly will be back in business once again. ...just frustrating that I find the info today, as I notice the washing machine beating itself to death.:mad:


Sorry I no longer receive heads up e-mails for these post. Hope it all got worked out for you.....Dick
lostdalinkwent  
#286 Posted : Saturday, March 5, 2016 12:46:26 PM(UTC)
lostdalinkwent

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/4/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1

Anyone in the Virginia area want one of these machines?
ski49  
#287 Posted : Sunday, October 2, 2016 6:33:00 AM(UTC)
ski49

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/29/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2

How do you rotate the two spinners in the basket of a 10 series fav9800 so arrows point back to 12 o'clock as suggested? When I try so spin in the tub as it sits now they do not move. Am I missing something here do take something apart and then rotate to that position? Any pictures would be great, thanks
firefour1  
#288 Posted : Tuesday, February 7, 2017 6:49:52 PM(UTC)
firefour1

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5

Hello Everyone.

Was able to find my original questions on this post about a water leak and bearing noise back in February of 2011. My model and serial are as follows:
Model: FAV6800A
Serial: 10886157EA

At that time, was able to order the parts and use the information from this post to replace the tub and drive bearings. After the rebuild my washer worked as new.

Fast forward to Sept 2016 and I noticed the bearings were becoming noisy again on the spin cycle. After trying to decide if I wanted to rebuild the washer again, went ahead and purchased all 4 bearing and seals. The parts arrived and last weekend I performed the rebuild. Am very happy to report the washer works perfectly and is very quiet during the wash and spin cycles.

Things that I noticed the 2nd time around:
a. The inside of the washer did not have nearly as much gunk under the clothes spinners or around the transmission. I attribute this to the switch to liquid laundry detergent from the powder we used prior to the rebuild. We also leave the washer lid in the up position when not in use to help dry out the inner workings
b. The o'ring seal did not leak. The small drive bearing and shaft running to the clutch were dry and rust free.
c. The main tub seal to spin bearing seal did not leak. The new design must be more robust than what Maytag originally used.

What surprised me was the upper main tub bearing was completely worn out even though there was not a water leak. I pried off the cover that protects the ball bearing to inspect and found the bearing was very worn with metal mixed in with the grease. The lower bearing was in better shape but needed to be replaced too.

Also, the transmission drive bearing was beginning to wear out. When turned, it had friction for part of the turn, not smooth as would be expected. Note the needle bearing near the clutch was the only bearing in good shape.

With the second failure at the 5 year mark after the rebuild, it appears that the bearing system for the main drum as well as the transmission drive are under-designed. It's really too bad that the design engineers at Maytag didn't pay attention to the fundamentals on this. Both my wife and I like the washer and it does a good job of getting the clothes clean. Most likely, this is the last time I'll perform the rebuild so we'll be looking to purchase new in 2022.

Take care and thanks so much to all of you for the great information listed in this post.

Kyle
sotten51@gmail.com  
#289 Posted : Saturday, February 11, 2017 5:19:57 AM(UTC)
sotten51@gmail.com

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/11/2017(UTC)
Posts: 2

Hello Rambler! I think I need to change the bearing on my machine as it is very very loud in the spin cycles. I see you have helped others do this. Is there a video I can watch on how to do it? How difficult is the job?
sotten51@gmail.com  
#290 Posted : Saturday, February 11, 2017 5:24:08 AM(UTC)
sotten51@gmail.com

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/11/2017(UTC)
Posts: 2

Kyle: Is there a video to showto do this Job? How hard is it and how long did it take you?
Users browsing this topic
Guest (11)
30 Pages«<27282930>
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.