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grenstreet  
#21 Posted : Friday, December 10, 2010 6:40:02 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

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hi Joe

Installed the part this morning and a whole new world happened!!!!!!:)
It Worked. I am so.... so happy. when I got it connected I first turned the unit on and a couple of minutes went by and the fan came on and I immediately checked the volts and I had 118v at the yellow and 0v at the brown. SO GOOD. then I threw the unit into defrost and the comp and fan shut down and the heat came on and lasted for around 6 min and turned off and after about 10 min the comp came on and then the fan. I bottoned everything up and I am really confident that this thing might just run another 15 years. WOOHOO!!!

BTW the element had a slight crack in it at the back of the bend. would not have seen it unless removed.

Again I have to really thank you for all your help and patience with me.
Have a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a wonderful NEW YEAR
Joe / APP Team  
#22 Posted : Friday, December 10, 2010 10:09:05 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: grenstreet Go to Quoted Post
hi Joe

Installed the part this morning and a whole new world happened!!!!!!:)
It Worked. I am so.... so happy. when I got it connected I first turned the unit on and a couple of minutes went by and the fan came on and I immediately checked the volts and I had 118v at the yellow and 0v at the brown. SO GOOD. then I threw the unit into defrost and the comp and fan shut down and the heat came on and lasted for around 6 min and turned off and after about 10 min the comp came on and then the fan. I bottoned everything up and I am really confident that this thing might just run another 15 years. WOOHOO!!!

BTW the element had a slight crack in it at the back of the bend. would not have seen it unless removed.

Again I have to really thank you for all your help and patience with me.
Have a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a wonderful NEW YEAR



Great Job,

I don't know if you'll get another 15 years, but you'll be alright for quite a while.

I'm glad you're up and running,
And thanks for being patient with me as well.

You and Yours have a great holiday as well,
:D :D :D :D
jarndt923  
#23 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 1:31:59 PM(UTC)
jarndt923

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Could I also get a copy of the wiring diagram. I seem to be having the same issue with my Amana. I bought a new evaporator fan motor and defrost thermostat. After installing them the fan didn't spin. When checked with my meter, I got only around 90 volts when checking the yellow and brown wires with my black probe (-) on the brown wire. The yellow and brown wires with my black probe (-) on the yellow read 0. The yellow to ground read 120 volts. The brown to ground read 0.
grenstreet  
#24 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 2:29:33 PM(UTC)
grenstreet

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Hi

I dont have a wiring diagram but you would have to take a ohm reading from the heater element itself. should read about 30-50 ohms if it doesnt then that thing needs to be replaced and everything will go back to normal.
jarndt923  
#25 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 2:51:35 PM(UTC)
jarndt923

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Hi,
I tested the heating element with the power off. With the meter set to RX1 I probed the heating element wire ends and got nothing. The meter stayed to the left.
Joe / APP Team  
#26 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 3:05:31 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: jarndt923 Go to Quoted Post
Could I also get a copy of the wiring diagram. I seem to be having the same issue with my Amana. I bought a new evaporator fan motor and defrost thermostat. After installing them the fan didn't spin. When checked with my meter, I got only around 90 volts when checking the yellow and brown wires with my black probe (-) on the brown wire. The yellow and brown wires with my black probe (-) on the yellow read 0. The yellow to ground read 120 volts. The brown to ground read 0.



Jarndt,

I don't have a diagram either...

I had to return it.

But everything you need to do and check is in the previous threads to Greenstreet.

It's the same system, circuitry, and components in most Amana built refrigerators for years, a lot of years.

I'm sure you'll get it figured out and repaired in no time.

Vic, thanks for the input,

Good Luck, ALL

:) :) :)
Joe / APP Team  
#27 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 3:34:50 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Jarndt,

I don't have a diagram either...

I had to return it.

But everything you need to do and check is in the previous threads to Greenstreet.

It's the same system, circuitry, and components in most Amana built refrigerators for years, a lot of years.

I'm sure you'll get it figured out and repaired in no time.

Vic, thanks for the input,

Good Luck, ALL

:) :) :)



Jarndt,

You've got a bad defrost heater, just like grenstreet suggested,

Your meter needle should have moved to the right to at least 20 ohms,

Yours didn't move at all, a completely open circuit, order up the part, install it (be careful, don't cut yourself or damage the new heater) and you should be good to go.


:D :D :D
jarndt923  
#28 Posted : Saturday, January 15, 2011 3:59:46 AM(UTC)
jarndt923

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When I tried to force it into defrost mode by opening and closing the door 4-5 times, it never works. The compressor is still running. The compressor is suppose to stop. Would a bad defrost heater be causing this also or is there more going on. Not sure if I should just buy a new fridge or keep buying more parts.
Joe / APP Team  
#29 Posted : Saturday, January 15, 2011 5:44:23 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: jarndt923 Go to Quoted Post
When I tried to force it into defrost mode by opening and closing the door 4-5 times, it never works. The compressor is still running. The compressor is suppose to stop. Would a bad defrost heater be causing this also or is there more going on. Not sure if I should just buy a new fridge or keep buying more parts.



Jarndt,

Sounds like you're almost doing the test correctly.

(If you have an ADC board ? You never supplied us a model number)

I would not open and close the door, , instead just firmly press and release the door switch 5 times, when the compressor is running.

You may want to try, using the freezer door switch as well, I know some units you could use either door switch to force the test.

Replacing the Fridge, would be up to you, of course, but you could replace all the defrost components, and still be way less expensive than a new comparable model.

Get us a model number and we can try and get more information.


:) :) :)
jarndt923  
#30 Posted : Saturday, January 15, 2011 6:11:17 AM(UTC)
jarndt923

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The model number of my side by side Amana is SRD25s5L.
With the fridge/freezer thawed out and warm from being unplugged, I plugged it in and turned it on. I then was able to get it to go into the defrost mode by pressing the freezer door switch 4 times with the door open. The compressor stopped, I felt no heat on the element. The compressor started up again after the 6 minutes. Does the freezer need to be cold/frosted to actually heat the element or should it heat no matter what?
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