Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LE7680XSW1 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Unfortunately I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit so the following is just general info.

Did you actually measure any of the parts with a meter or were you just guessing?

First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful 240 volts is lethal.[/COLOR]
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the heating coil and thermostats etc. for continuity.
Heating coil, should be 10 to 12 ohms approximately.
Thermostats and thermal fuse all should be 0 ohms.
Not sure what thermal devices you replaced as the unit has two thermal fuses. Near the heater is a thermal fuse for it and a hi-limit thermostat.
The main cycling thermostat is on the blower.
There is always a possibility that you received a bad part.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Thank you for your past help. I did finally get the dryer to work, I was so proud of myself. I had the dryer working, but it only worked 1 time and it wouldn't work again. At first I thought it might be the circuit breaker. (I was concerned about testing to see it it worked, 220 volts is a bit scary) After about of a month of just letting it sit I got someone to test all the parts to make sure it really wasn't the circuit breaker. What we found out it is the dryer thermal fuse. (which was replaced in the first set of items) Of course I will replace it again, but before I do I want to make sure it isn't part of a bigger problem. This is a list of what I have replaced: Heating element (AP3109438), Dryer Thermal fuse (AP3132867), Thermal cut-off for dryer heating element (AP3094224) I believe there was one more thing, but I can't find the receipt for what else was possibly replaced.
Once again I appreciate any advise you can give me.
Have a great day!

You never actually said what the problem is.
Is it just no heat or is the unit totally dead?
Which fuse is blowing?
There are actually 2 in the unit one on/near the heating coil and one on the blower housing. Depends a lot on terminology fuse or cut-off but they both can be called fuses.

You probably also replaced the hi-limit thermostat on the heater as it comes with the heater's cut-off (fuse).