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seem to have lid latch issues...took apart switch and it looks new....cleaned contacts, worked fine for a week. now about every 10 loads get the lid won't latch, beeps 3 times. so now I just raise the lid unplug switch, plug it back in and washer works fine for a week or so then it happens again. hate to buy a $80.00 switch when a don't see anything wrong with the switch that's in it! anyone think it's the control board or just the switch not working all the time? thanks
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Neptune TL FAV6800xxx? There should be 2 lid switches on this, one on each side. Either could be bad but if messing with one temporarily solves it that's probably it.
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from what I've been reading, I could unplug the right switch and machine would still work fine[2 wires I think] but the left one has 6 wires and sends the message to the control board. I had to unplug the left switch again this morning and plug it back in, then washer works fine. thanks for your reply, I hope to get a few more opinions before I buy the $80 switch. i'm just one of those guys that would like to "see" the switch is bad but I guess it could be in the windings but like I said the switch looks new inside. thanks again
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I'll look at a wiring diagram later if I can. I have changed several of those locks, it wasn't uncommon. I haven't seen one in a few years and they were pretty rare even when new.
Rereading your post makes me think the machine isn't aware that the lid is closed, rather than not locking. There's a difference though a new lock may be the answer to both issues. A failure in the lock mechanism should be accompanied by a lock error (FL error at start or LO at end of cycle I think). You can test the reed switch inside the lock, it is closed by a magnet in the lid, even a misalignment of the lid can cause the reed switch to read open and... voila...beep-beep-beep when you try to start it.
I have a service manual somewhere for this machine. It's available online also, have you found it? Search by actual model # instead of name. In service diagnostics you can test both lock and switch.
Have fun with the wonderful vagueness of late Maytag diagnostics.
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thanks again for the reply. when the machine fails to start it shows d o error. tried to unplug it to reset it this time but still had to unplug the lid switch to clear it,,,then it's FIXED again, lol still don't understand what unplugging it does at the switch. seems if it was switch it wouldn't heal itself just by unplugging it. I've seen the repair manual but didn't see testing switch. I did see a post on here to test with a ohm meter to see if switch is sending 12v to board, but I don't refer to myself as a electrical type guy, I was hoping to get a good idea which of the two is most likely the issue. haven't done anything to rt switch either but from what I've read doesn't seem to matter if it works or not and it does work after I unplug the left switch. thanks again for your trouble. I hope i'm not the only one on here trying to keep this oddball machine going!!
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I can't seem to attach the manual here. So here's a link to it: 16022808 TL NEPTUNE16022808 TL NEPTUNE"do" isn't a code in the manual. "od" would indicate the machine thinks you haven't opened the lid in 3 consecutive cycles. A reed switch stuck closed (making contact) might cause that as the machine always sees a closed lid. This could be intermittent. Unplugging the switch would look the same to the PCB as opening the reed switch inside the lock when the lid is raised. The manual: There are many tests in service mode, feel free to run quick test or any other, you can't really harm anything. I'd always look at the stored codes 1st, write them down and then clear them to start new. Assuming some other major code isn't present the physical tests you are interested in are board input and output. These will allow you to toggle lock and switch status. Pro tip: a quick check of basic reed switch function on this is whether the machine wakes up when you open the lid. I think it should. If it doesn't light up there you go. You probably aren't the only person still using this machine but your companions are few as they tended to break the clutch at the bottom and many people just buy new if anything goes wrong. Long distance diagnosis can be frustrating, even being there can be frustrating but if you are persistent you'll probably get it. It's good that the machine still works so you aren't without a washer. I'd still bet on the lock itself just based on what you've told me.
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thank you very much for your help. just went to the washer and opened lid...still asleep! so in your opinion it's the lid switch? never have run the machine in service mode but may give it a try. I was hoping someone like you could help me decide to buy the switch or not, so now I feel like ordering the switch. you seem to understand the operation of this thing. now that you mention it I have noticed machine doesn't light up all the time when you raise lid. for a while now we have been raising the lid after washing is complete to maybe reduce the chance of mold building up. lid remains open for days....could this have anything to do with my issues? you've been a great help and I thank you again. After 30yrs of using mismatched washer/dryer when we needed a washer I told my wife to buy the best [most expensive lol ] maytag washer they make, and this was the result....should have read consumer reports! lol
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Yeah I'd say that is your lock. You can test it in service mode to be sure. If it allows you to run more than 3 loads before trouble I'd be almost certain that it is that lock. They corrode inside and damage contacts or wires. You can open it back up and see the small reed switch inside. If a wire is off one end that is definitely a problem. If you have a way to check continuity you can test it with a magnet. It should be Normally Open and close with the magnet. Parts for Maytag FAV6800AWQ: Control Panel, Top & Lid Parts - AppliancePartsPros.comTroubleshooting in the manual talks about a missing magnet in the lid. I don't think a missing magnet would act this way, as the PCB should always see the lid as open if the magnet isn't there and not run or try to lock. You can use a strong magnet at the lock to simulate the lid opening/closing but the symptoms don't match what I'd expect. The diagram indicates magnets on both sides, I'm not sure that is true. I don't think it is. The wiring diagram I have doesn't show any reed switch in the RH lock.  I think APP allows returns if it should prove to not be the lock. It's usually worth the peace of mind to buy from a vendor that allows returns. Many do not or have strict limits on what can be returned. My standard advice is to repair before replace in most cases. Obviously $ is a factor but so is the generally low quality of many new appliances. For $100 I'd repair this if it was mine; assuming it is working well otherwise. Good Luck and enjoy the satisfaction of fixing it yourself! Drew
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thanks Drew....I've had the switch apart a few times just looking for something. Like I said, it all looks new...no broken wires, no corrosion, nothing that the eye can see. took load out to dry and noticed again machine dosen.t light up when you raise the lid, but it worked fine this time. guess I'll buy the switch...lol
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