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Hi - First Post - I use forums all the time for help. So, I'm hoping there is a helpful individual here that can save me the hours of work (and money) to hopefully determine if this washer is fixable - instead of throwing parts at it.
This model Whirlpool doesn't have a display - and I'm unsure if it even has a diagnostic mode. But the symptoms seem simple enough for someone to help me get on the right track.
Problem - When start is pressed I hear the door lock and that's all. No water in unit, and drum turns freely.
Subsequently the door will not open. If power button is turned off, door will still not open - but several lights still stay on (Add Garmet, and one other). After several minutes it will start beeping (I think it is 4 short beeps - is this a diagnostic???)
Then if the power button is turned off - all lights go off and the door will open.
I can provide additional info if asked - but I didn't want info overload at first.
I'm thinking this sounds like the "main brain" (I think you guys call it the MCU. If so, I'm also thinking it wouldn't be worth replacing for a 6-7 year old washer.
I'm very familiar (because I'm a stubborn fix-it guy) with throwing parts and time at these new electronic "conveniences." But as the wash piles up, this might not go well with the rest of the household. :)
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781   Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Please check your model number and resubmit. The WTW seems ok (Whirlpool Topload Washer) but the number 9150 doesn't match a top load machine. There should also be 2 to 4 characters after something like (WW00) (E1WW)
A complete accurate model number and serial number will help in forum diagnostic.
Take a pic of the model # sticker and post if you wish.
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Rank: Member
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Yep Sorry - My Error,
It is a WFW 9150ww01 - But I've been educating myself after figuring out how to get error codes for this machine - with no display.
I've got an F6E1 and I know that means a CCU or a MCU if assuming all wiring, etc. is intact.
And I understand there are potentially ways to figure out which one it is, but these methods are not 100% reliable.
So, I am contemplating getting a new CCU and if that isn't it, I can return it and try a new MCU.
My question would now be - should I just "bite the bullet and buy a new machine?" It still appears sound, clean, and matches the dryer. And new machines are about 10% more than elsewhere (I'm in Hawaii).
What would you do. This machine is probably 6-7 yrs old.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Aloha! You can try one thing as a possible quick fix. The terminal ends may be corroded / oxidized. You can try to clean all of the connections and terminal ends to and from the ECU and the MCU. Use a contact cleaner, I've included a pic which is an example of one product. This can be obtained from any big box hardware store. brobriffin attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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In follow up, many people have replaced either the motor control unit MCU or the Electronic Control Board CCU. After a few months they wind up with the same problem. The issue wasn't with the control boards but with either the connections being corroded or the wire harness was bad. They had unconnected the wires to change the part and thus made a better connection which after time and humidity re-corroded.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/1/2016(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: brobriffin  In follow up, many people have replaced either the motor control unit MCU or the Electronic Control Board CCU. After a few months they wind up with the same problem. The issue wasn't with the control boards but with either the connections being corroded or the wire harness was bad. They had unconnected the wires to change the part and thus made a better connection which after time and humidity re-corroded. Thank you very much for that valuable info. I may have made a mistake and ordered a CCU from a company that sells "used" parts - but say they are tested, etc. and returnable if unopened. And I wanted to get a part (any part) on the way before the holiday weekend. I was confused as I saw prices around $2-300 for this part. But Sears and this used place had it for $60 and $85. (I figured $75 with shipping was an acceptable repair price, $250 was not). This washer is well under cover but is officially "outdoors." So, the theory of corrosion, considering the Hawaiian climate, could be a possibility. I'm off to get some cleaner to give that a try - as the dirty cloths start to mount up. :) Either way I'm hoping to get lucky. Any more feedback will continue to be appreciated.
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