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The washing machine at times refuses to go into the spin cycle no matter where they put the dial. However - with the machine empty - it works every time - every spin position!! I have bypassed the lid switch and replaced the timer. I checked continuity of the water level switch and it seems fine and the tube is not clogged. What have I missed? Is it possible the centrifugal switch is bad? What else is there? How many things actually control the spin cycle?
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Please verify your model number. The number you gave isn't matching any current on our list.
And yes it does matter because if you have an older direct drive system, a stator / rotor direct drive, a stator / rotor electromagnetic shift or vertical modular system the answer to your question may be quite different.
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You are correct - the model tag is hard to read but I think it is RTW4440VQ2
Thanks for your reply and help. Since my first post - Today my daughter called me over and said it was messing up. Sure enough - the timer was in the spin area and the motor was running but no sign of spin! I turned it off and moved the timer to another spin position and powered up. The motor came on and I heard a clunk and it started spinning. No clunk before I moved the dial.
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Ok your system is a direct drive. What you state now is kinda what is expected. Let me explain. when the washer first enters a spin or rinse mode it will drain the water first. It accomplishes this by the transmission staying in neutral. Then the timer has a pause momentarily this allows the transmission to shift into spin cycle (which could be characterized by a clunk) The timer will then power up the motor once again and it will spin and drain until the end of the cycle. Reasons that a direct drive won't spin: 1. The coupler between the motor and transmission is broken. (this might be your case as you stated previously it will spin empty) When the barrel is empty the coupler doesn't have as much pressure against it and may be able to spin it. Here is a link to that part and it includes a repair video Whirlpool 285753A Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling - AppliancePartsPros.com You can watch the video then check to see if this is your machines problem. Let us know the outcome and if it is your machines issue there may be an underlying cause for it to have broken.
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Rob,
Thanks for your reply.
I have inspected the coupler and it looks ok.
I am wondering about the transmission and the item above the transmission which I think is a "centrifugal device" ?? If there is nothing above the transmission then I may be sunk!! Is it worth repairing?
Thanks again for your help.
Mike
PS - I have moved it to the back porch and hooked it up to water and power - it works fine without a load!
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Ok, are you ready and able to do some diagnostic testing? You say you've bypassed the lid switch is that still the case? If so, good it will help in the diagnostic.
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Rob - I just ran an experiment - I sat on the washer and put my feet in the bottom of the tub, run the timer to the spin cycle and hit the ON switch - just quickly at first then then longer and longer. The motor came on but - no spin with my feet in the tub but when I lifted them up a little it started to spin (of course power off quickly). My point is with very little pressure (Load) = no spin. Is that a fault in the transmission or a (centrifugal assy) (if there is one)? Like I said there is something between the top of the transmission and the bottom of the tub - What is that?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/6/2016(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Your welcome. Let us know how the repair turns out!
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