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Joined: 3/5/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
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I have no heat, but it starts and tumbles fine. I've done continuity tests on the heating element, thermal fuse and high limit thermostat - all were fine. I also visually checked the power cord going into the block - also looked OK. There is definitely no power going to the heating element. I'm stumped. What else could be the problem?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hello.
When you where doing continuity tests did you disconnect one side? Have you checked for 230v at the terminal block?
Please, post results.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/5/2012(UTC)
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I disconnected both sides. 10.5 ohms on the heating element. .3 ohms at the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat. I didn't check for 230v at the block. I was actually thinking that would be the next step, but I have not checked for power on anything higher than 110 before. If you can, post the procedure, or I can look it up on the net when I get home this afternoon. Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
To check for 230v at the terminal block set your meter for AC volt and with unit plugged in measure voltage between outer contacts of the terminal block. It should read anywhere 220v to 240v AC.
Post the results.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/5/2012(UTC)
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It reads 247v. Could it be the switch? I tried it in every option (timed, delicate, permanent press) with no change.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
If you fill comfortable to run the life test turn the dryer on check at the heater contacts (with one lid off) first for240v between then each lid to the chassis. Trace the wire without 120v. It may bring you to the timer or the motor switch. Please be careful - the dryer is "hot".
Post the results.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/5/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
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I think I found the problem at the timer. The pin that the red power wire connects to is extremely loose and the block is burnt and cracked around the base of the pin. The wire itself is burnt around the connector.[IMG]http://www5.snapfish.com/snapfish/fe/l=en_US/p/Organizer/AlbumID=6018582025/a=2383220025_2383220025/s_c=0/s_se=FDR#state=%7B%22pl%22%3A%7B%22uc%22%3A2%2C%22aid%22%3A6176333025%2C%22pid%22%3A252129256025%2C%22vp%22%3A%22s%22%2C%22sb%22%3A5%7D%2C%22ovm%22%3A%7B%22v%22%3A%22s%22%7D%7D[/IMG][IMG]http://www5.snapfish.com/snapfish/fe/l=en_US/p/Organizer/AlbumID=6018582025/a=2383220025_2383220025/s_c=0/s_se=FDR#state=%7B%22pl%22%3A%7B%22uc%22%3A2%2C%22aid%22%3A6176333025%2C%22pid%22%3A252129256025%2C%22vp%22%3A%22s%22%2C%22sb%22%3A5%7D%2C%22ovm%22%3A%7B%22v%22%3A%22s%22%7D%7D[/IMG]
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
I'm afraid your are out of luck. Both: timer and wiring harness are no longer awailble. Sorry.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/5/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Yes, that's what I figured. Thanks for the help.
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